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Best Bindings 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated February 1, 2018
Best Bindings of 2018
There are dozens of choices for an bindings these days. These are composed of modern styling with modern technology to match it. Here are some good examples. I browse the various bindings available on the market and list three of the very best.
If you’re reading this, it is very likely that you’re scouting for the best bindings. The rating is based on multiple factors: The 3 metrics ‐ Design, Materials, Performance, and other indicators such as: Popularity, Opinions, Brand, Reputation and more.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this bindings win the first place?
I also liked the delivery service that was fast and quick to react. It was delivered on the third day. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack.
Why did this bindings come in second place?
I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office.
Why did this bindings take third place?
We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
Bindings Buyer’s Guide
How to Choose Ski Bindings
Scoring a pair of older but pristine skis at ski swap can give you serious shopper’s high and make your season, but shopping for ski bindings gets a little trickier.
There’s no pretty topsheet, stiffness to test, or sidecut to eye; there are only mysterious inner workings. But don’t be intimidated; essentially bindings attach your boots to your skis. For most types, this job also entails efficient transfer of energy from boot to ski and safe release when you fall, but it’s not rocket science. There are three main types of bindings, and here is how to choose which ones are right for you.
Backcountry Athletes Jenn Berg and Jamey Parks in the Alta backcountry, UT
Alpine bindings are made for alpine boots for in-resort downhill skiing. The different models depend on ski style and Deutsche Industrie Norm, known as DIN, release setting. There are different categories that include freeride, race, freestyle, sport, and junior. Choose the binding in your style and category that has the appropriate DIN range. Your DIN setting is determined by your skill level (Type 1, 2, or 3) and weight (some charts also incorporate age, height, and boot sole length). Beyond the expert level, DIN setting is even less scientific and depends heavily on personal comfort levels. For example, there are many featherweight but aggressive racers or freeskiers who like a high DIN.
Frame AT Bindings
If getting away from the crowds and making first tracks is your thing, then AT is a logical option. These bindings generally fit both AT boots and alpine boots and provide a safe touring platform for backcountry skiing. A base plate and frame link the toe and heel, and the binding pivots for free-heel climbing in hike mode. On the descent, the binding locks down for alpine-like performance. In recent years, AT setups have made big advances in weight reduction, durability, and performance. You’ve probably even seen AT gear ripping around at the resorts.
These are releasable bindings and operate like alpine bindings, with multi-directional, multi-pivot release, and an adjustable DIN range. You choose them in a similar way, taking into account preference and comfortable DIN accommodation. AT bindings come with different brake widths, but, again, these can be easily changed.
Traditional Strap-in Bindings
The most common style of binding available in the marketplace, traditional strap-in bindings, have withstood the test of time in the ever-changing world of snowboarding. The design simply involves strapping a soft snowboard boot onto a baseplate with a highback, by way of a toe strap and an ankle strap that fasten with a ratchet buckle system.
Over the years, strap-in bindings have evolved with the sport, featuring various levels of quality, features, and materials. A strap-in binding can be used with any brand snowboard boot, but manufacturer boots generally fit their bindings the best (e.g. KBoots with a KBinding).
If you’ve been into the sport of snowboarding since its inception, or if you are still renting equipment, you are probably familiar with a step-in binding. The step-in system generally includes a stiff boot with some type of pin, or metal piece on the bottom that clicks right into the “binding,” which is essentially a plate mounted on the board.
The idea behind this design was to create a quick and convenient way to get in and out of bindings without sitting down and strapping in. However, most riders found that the plate or the pin, or both, would accumulate ice buildup, making it impossible to click in. Additionally, many riders found that the design lacked sufficient support, and ultimately resulted in a large amount of energy loss. With a traditional strap-in binding the flex of your boot transfers energy to the strap of your binding, this is then transferred to your board. A step-in binding itself provides no support, but rather the boots are simply extremely stiff. This increased stiffness makes the boot practically impossible to flex, and therefore you have to work harder because much of the energy is lost before it gets to the board. – Return to Top
Step-in bindings may have been phased out, but for many the desire for a binding that offers convenience is still there. Many riders feel that strapping in and out of bindings at the beginning and end of every run is a hassle. Fortunately, there are a few manufacturers that have heard their cries and decided to cater to this desire, while still offering a supportive binding that doesn’t sacrifice energy transfer. Here are a few:
Flow was the first company to respond the requests for a binding that offered both the convenience of a step-in binding and the response and support of a traditional strap-in binding. What spawned from this idea was a design with one large strap that went over the boot, and a highback with a latch that unhooked and released the highback down completely. With this design, riders could simply pop the highback down, slide their boot in, pull the highback up, snap it into place and go. The same process was used to remove the boot when needed.
Flow’s idea has now grown into a full line with various levels of performance and quality, while the initial design remains relatively the same. Flow also manufacturers their own line of boots, but any brand snowboard boot can be used in this binding system.
Kwas one of a handful of companies that produced step-in model bindings during their time. As step-in bindings were phased out, Kstill recognized the demand for a convenience style binding. As a replacement to their very popular KClicker, Klaunched the Cinch design in the 2004-200snowboard season. This design was similar to the design developed by Flow in that the highback had a latch on it that the rider unsnapped and pulled down. However, instead of one large strap, the binding had a toe and an ankle strap, just like a traditional strap-in binding. When the highback of the binding is pulled down, the two straps will actually rise of from the frame, making it easier to get your boot in and out.
Like Flow, Khas evolved the Cinch binding into an entire series with various performance levels and material designs, while sticking with essentially the same design. This binding style provides riders the convenience that Flow brought to the marketplace, but with the feel and adjustability of a traditional strap-in binding. Cinch bindings can be used with any snowboard boot, but Ksnowboard boots are likely to fit best.
Men’s v. Women’s Bindings
Contrary to the belief of many, there are differences between snowboard bindings for men and those for women. Women are not built the same as men, so neither should their bindings be. The primary difference exists in the placement of the calf in women’s legs. The calf of a woman is positioned lower; therefore, the highback on female bindings need not rise as high up.
Additionally, women usually have narrower feet, thus their bindings are designed slightly narrower to fit women’s boots better. Place a woman’s snowboard boot into a men’s binding and you will quickly see that it isn’t a good fit. The extra space that exists causes women to lose some of the energy transferred to their board. This occurs because the binding is not the ideal fit for the boots.
Toe straps used to be exclusively worn over the top of the foot, but over the years that has changed. Burton originally started the change by making “toe caps” that are worn over the toe of the boot. Over the years most manufacturers have followed suit making either a “convertible strap” that can be worn either way, or a toe strap that is shaped specifically to be worn over the toe of the boot. The shape and design may vary by brand, but the idea is to draw the boot back into the binding. This helps eliminate any pressure points over the top of the foot, and draws the boot back into the binding allowing for most efficient energy transfer. The majority of current bindings will now incorporate this in some manner with and the degree to which the toe strap conforms to the boot generally increases with price.
It is our commitment to provide you with the most complete, accurate, and thorough information possible to help you make an informed decision. We encourage you to check out these additional pieces of media to help guide you to the best snowboard binding for you.
The DIN Range dictates what weight/ability range your bindings are designed for. DIN varies by height, weight, age, ability, and boot size, so knowing these basics helps to instantly narrow down the correct choice for you. Skiers that weigh more, are taller or are more aggressive require higher DIN settings. Also, if two skiers are the exact same height, weight, age, and ability but they vary in boot size, the skier with the smaller boot is able to put more torque on the ski bindings therefore needing a higher DIN setting. Here are some basic guidelines on what DIN range to look at. •9-16
This is the amount of snowboard edge that is in contact with the snow. This is not the same as board length as the turned-up portion of the nose and tail will not carve the snow during a turn. A longer effective edge will provide more stability at high speeds and better grip in turns. A shorter effective edge makes it easier to initiate turns and spins.
Most Snowboard bindings fasten to the board in a pre-drilled industry standard binding configuration called a 4xinsert pattern (i.e. holes drilled into the top of the board for each binding). These systems allow easy changes in the binding placement and stance angles. The good news is that the vast majority of bindings are compatible with most snowboards.
HOWEVER not all bindings accommodate all boots, so make sure you get your boots first!
Liquid Force Vantage CT wakeboard bindings are highly versatile with velcro straps. Photo: Liquid Force
Velcro straps are a very popular lacing system, mainly because there are no laces to tie. The downside is some might say they don’t offer as precise a fit. Try for yourself and see what you think.
Finding the right fit
In general, you want your snowboard boots a bit tighter than your kicks. If your heel can lift out of the heel cup while walking around in them, they’re not tight enough. Then again, if your toes can’t wiggle, they’re too tight. Feet and ankles should feel snug and in place so that when you initiate a switch from edge to edge on your board, the board responds accordingly. Your big toe should just barely graze the toe cap.
Get to know your lacing system
Now that you have an understanding of what kind of fit and flex to go for, we can get into the different lacing systems, and offer a few snowboard boot suggestions in each of the lacing categories.
Most times, when you get to the mountain, you don’t want to waste time lacing up your boots or waiting for your friends to lace up theirs. You just want to run to the lift. If this sounds like you, you’re going to love Boa technology. Since 2001, snowboarders have been able to slip their feet into their snowboard boots, crank the dial, and get after it. Some boots utilize one cable to tighten each boot, while others have two to three boa system cables for more precise, zonal tightening. Boa bonus: You don’t have to take off your mittens or gloves in the dead of winter to tighten or get your boots on and off.
DC prides itself on developing products that take into account the feedback of its team. Well, the team did a great job with the Judge Boot, and it’s a top choice among the DC Team Riders. Its Dual Boa Closure System ensures a precision fit so you won’t break an ankle, and the Aerotech Ventilation System will make sure your feet can breathe through all that sweat as you hike up to the bowl.
Right in the middle on the flex scale, the Women’s Vans Aura Snowboarding boots has Vans custom focus Boa to target different zones. In fact, Vans was the first to start the trend and use Boa technology in their snowboard boots. Add that to a response liner and internal web harness, and you’ll have all the comfort and support you need as you adventure around the mountain for hours on end.
Similar to the popular ‘90s toy, the Bop It, some snowboard boots have a combination of technological advancements that you pull, twist, push (and bob it) to get that perfect fit. Below are some of the hybrid boots that’ll allow you to take advantage of all the best technology in one boot.
The overlay component of wakeboard bindings is the element that provides the majority of the support for your foot. The overlay pulls the toe and heel pieces together to form a snug and secure attachment to the wakeboard. The cut or mold should be thick enough to provide ample support, but not so thick that it prohibits stretching.
The design of the overlay is to offer ankle support without binding. • Works effectively by pushing down the rider’s heel. Most new wakeboard bindings utilize adjustable straps, laces, and/or buckles within the overlay to provide the proper support. • Standard overlay systems are comprised of two overlays that criss-cross in front and behind of the foot. They lock into the hardware around the ankle and fore foot. • Closure should be cinched enough for consistent, non-binding pressure all around the foot.
The underlay component of a wakeboard binding is what makes contact with the top of the rider’s foot, as well as the Achilles tendon. The underlay design of wakeboard bindings designed today is typically made from EVA foam (foam/rubber hybrid) that makes them much lighter.
The function of hardware is to provide support to along the side of the foot, as well as to hold binding pieces together. Typically hardware will be made from metal or nylon materials. • Ergonomically designed hardware is best for wakeboard bindings because it curves into the arch and out at the toes. • Heel pieces should be in a position similar to a fitted cup. Offering support around all areas of the heel. • Hardware should be positioned so that your foot cannot slide on top of any piece. If your foot does, it may cause pain and/or bruising during landings. • Many companies will offer aftermarket hardware for bindings. A good set of hardware, bolts specifically, will securely lock the baseplates down for security.
Support and comfort are the ideal characteristics for wakeboard binding footbeds. Chatter of the board as you cross over wake and when you land after catching air can take a toll on a rider’s feet. Proper footbeds are an ideal way of battling this issue. • The ideal footbed will have some form of traction to prevent your sole from sliding after it gets wet. • Footbeds that are too soft can be problematic because they do not properly absorb shock. If possible, locate bindings that have a footbed with a dual density foam construction. This will provide a good combination of shock absorption and comfort. Other options are air or gel pockets in the heel. • The rider’s heel should sit slightly higher to accommodate the ankles and knees, and also have a proper heel cup to secure the foot in place.
Ski bindings are the devices that hold the ski boots onto the skis. They are designed so that if you get into trouble, your boot should detatch from the ski, before you can hurt your legs. They play a very important role as not only are they safety devices, they also transfer all the inputs you make into the skis, which is where all of your control comes from.
The first thing to know about bindings is the DIN setting. DIN stands for Deutsches Institut für Normung (German Institute for Standardization) and is the industry standard scale for release force settings for ski bindings. This is the tension adjustment on the front and back parts of the bindings, and it determines how easily your boot will be released from the binding. The gauges on the top of the toe and heel housings are the visual indicators for this setting, which can be adjusted with the screws at the front and back of the binding. The DIN setting you should have is calculated by your weight, height, skier type, age and boot sole length, and should be set by a technician in the shop you get your skis from. A lot of shops will even test to make sure the bindings release under the correct forces. The correct DIN setting for you should be high enough that the skis do not come off when you don’t want them to, but low enough that the skis will come off before you are in danger of injuring your legs. The tensions for the front and the back of the binding are set separately, and can be set to different values if required, although generally they are set to the same value.
The DIN range available can change between different bindings, and it is important to use a binding with the right range for you. The DIN setting you have should not be towards the very top or bottom of the range available on your bindings, and should lie somewhere in the middle 75% of the range ideally as this is the area where the settings are the most accurate and reliable. The DIN Calculator can be used to find your recommended DIN setting, to give you an idea of what DIN range you should be looking for.
Riser plates are plates that go between the binding and the ski, so that the binding is mounted higher above the ski. Riser plates enable more pressure to be put on the edges and make ski boots drag in the snow less on leant over turns. They are often found on skis that are intended to perform well on hard or icy snow.
When a ski bends, the toe and heel housings of the binding get closer together, but the sole of the ski boot doesn’t bend or change length. Because of this ski bindings are designed so that the heel housing is sprung, and will slide along the heel track as the ski bends. This enables the binding to adjust to the boot as the ski bends, and ensures an even forward pressure is always applied to the heel of the ski boot so that the boot is always held tightly and uniformly.
The materials a binding is made of can effect how strong, durable, shock absorbing, power transmitting, and light your bindings are. Generally speaking, the better you are at skiing the more you will need your bindings made of stronger more expensive materials, as the forces the binding will need to deal with are larger.
Bindings are designed to let the toe and heel of the boot move within them to an extent before they release the boot. This provides a certain amount of shock absorbtion, and stops the skis from being released inadvertently as often. Most bindings are designed to let the boot move about 5mm, although this does vary between different manufacturers and models.
Ski bindings are designed to be relatively free of maintenance, unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. However, it is always good to keep the bindings free of dirt, salt or rust etc, and to store them in a warm dry place. Avoid cleaning the bindings with soap or solvents, as this can remove the factory lubricant which is needed to keep the binding functioning properly.
Alpine Touring Bindings
Touring bindings are intended for both walking up the mountain and skiing back down. They have different modes, one for walking up where the heel is not attached to the ski and the binding pivots from in front of the toe, and one for skiing down where the toe and heel are held as normal. There are several different systems that touring bindings can use, some systems work with normal ski boots and function mostly as described on this page, but other systems are quite different and require special boots. As touring bindings are intended for going uphill they are often made to be as light as possible, and because of this they are not always as strong or as durable as normal alpine bindings are.
The information here is for alpine skiing bindings. Bindings for other types of skiing can be quite different.
This is a setup used for alpine (or race, or carve) snowboards. These snowboards are so narrow that small stance angles are impossible since your feet will quickly overhang your snowboard and you will wipe out. Front and rear angles are anywhere between +70° and +35° degrees and are usually set by the width of the snowboard. These angles together with hard boots allow you to carve aggressively. For better control in short turns, the difference between the front and rear angle should be at least 5°.
This is the usual stance used by most of snowboarders. Both snowboard bindings have positive stance angles but they are much smaller than with alpine stance. Angles can be smaller because the regular snowboards (freeride and freestyle snowboards) are much wider than race snowboards. Typical angles can vary between +40° and +15° degrees for the front binding and between +30° and 0° degrees for the rear binding.
A general rule is that you should keep the difference between the front and rear angle under 21° degrees. Some typical setups:
This is a stance where the front binding angle is positive and the back binding angle is negative. This stance makes your toes face different directions like Donald ducks feet. Duckstance gives you more stability as your body is aligned with the snowboard and is useful for freestyle and riding halfpipe. With duck stance, the front angle is anywhere between 30° and 0° degrees while the rear angle is negative, between -1° and -20°. Keep the angles apart by at least degrees. Typical setups :
To get rid of the overhang you must adjust your stance angles. With the boot centered in a binding, rotate the binding until the boot toe and heel are only a little over the edge of the board. The larger your snowboard boot is, the greater angle you must use. If your feet are really big you should consider buying a wider snowboard. There are special WIDE snowboard models, that are (duh!) wider than regular snowboards and are made for people with big feet.
Binding fit and different features
When it comes to comfort, the most important thing is to find the right size for your bindings. While some higher end models only come in one size, the majority of models come in a variety of different sizes to fit every rider’s needs. Often times you can even find heat-moldable liners for extra comfort on the water. We suggest to try out different bindings before you buy so that you don’t waste your hard-earned money for something you do not enjoy using.
The best thing about open-toe bindings is that they leave some breathing room for your toes. This means that they can be used by different riders with different shoe sizes, or if you are still growing, open-toe models will have a longer life-span. Great for beginners, young riders and if you have one board in use.
Open-toe bindings are great if you are still growing or if you are sharing the board with others.
System bindings have a high back and straps, very much like snowboard bindings. This gives the rider the possibility to customize the fit and feel of the binding. Just remember, system bindings need boots that are specially designed for wakeboarding in mind.
Kids Skis with Bindings
Kids Skis with Bindings are All Mountain Kids Skis designed for children weighing less than 1pounds. Kids Skis with Bindings come with bindings which are pre-selected by the manufacturers to be the best compatible binding. In most instances the bindings are attached on a track system these skis are sometimes called System Skis or Skis with Integrated Binding Systems. This is the most popular category of Kids Skis.
Kids Skis without Bindings
Kids Skis without Bindings are All Mountain Kids Skis designed for children weighing less than 1pounds. The trend is moving towards Integrated Binding Systems so there typically aren’t too many choices for Kids Skis without Bindings. Buying Kids Skis without Bindings allows customers to choose their own bindings for the child who might be an aggressive skier, or might already be in adult ski boots.
Kids Twin Tip Skis
Twin Tips are the cool new thing with teenagers and now many of ski manufactures are making kids versions too. There are some models of twin tips which are very similar to All Mountain Skis, the difference being that the tail of the skis are flared upwards to create that twin tip shape. Other models of twin tip skis are designed for freestyle (terrain park) or powder applications. The freestyle and powder skis are typically more expensive and designed for advanced to pro level skiers. It is important to check the product specifications on the product page for the skill level and recommended use.
The comfort level is on groomed blue runs that can be skied with relative ease. The intermediate skier is working toward making completely parallel turns. The Intermediate skier may use a small wedge before the turn to control their speed, while the completion of the turn and traverse to the next turn is made in a parallel position. The Intermediate skier often retreats to the wedge position when they are uncomfortable on steeper or variable terrain.
Expert skiers are comfortable skiing at high speeds on all terrain including groomers, tracked powder, powder, moguls, etc. Expert skiers are capable of making large and small radius carved turns at high speeds on advanced terrain in any snow conditions. Expert skiers also use pole plants to help maintain proper timing and body positioning.
Waist Width is becoming an increasingly popular topic of conversation, especially in adult skis. The Kids Skis with Bindings or the Kids Skis without Bindings are designed for All Mountain Skiing; most of them have similar waist width dimensions (about 65mm). The twin tips are available in different waist widths. The narrower waist widths are great for skiing on groomed trails as it is easier to transition from edge to edge, while the wider skis are better for powder.
Some Kids Twin Tip Skis are available in the 72-80mm range for waist width offer versatility for kids who will be skiing in all types of snow conditions. The skis of this width perform better in varied snow conditions but aren’t too wide to ski groomed trails easily too. Most of the Kids Freestyle Twin Tips fall into this range as greater surface area provides a more stable landing while doing tricks.
There are a few models of Kids Powder Skis with waist widths up to about 105mm wide. These skis are designed for skiing in powder. These skis are aimed at advanced to expert level kids. These skis typically aren’t available in sizes smaller than 140cm in length.
Each ski has a specified turn radius based on the dimensions of the ski’s side cut. The larger the turn radius the harder a skier will have to work to make small turns, as the ski is suited to make longer turns. Skis with a shorter turn radius are best suited for beginner and intermediate skier as well as skiers looking to ski moguls and trees. The shorter turn radius allows the skier better control over their skis and is easier to make quick turns when necessary. Skis with longer turn radii are best for advanced skiers who are more comfortable at higher speeds and like to make longer sweeping turns.
There are three main construction styles Cap, Sidewall, and Partial Sidewall. The Construction style relates to how the ski is made and effects how it will perform. – Cap Construction –
Cap Construction Skis are molded in a process which essentially wraps the top layer of the ski over the core materials and continues to the edge. Cap Construction skis are typically softer flexing and less torsionally rigid. Cap construction skis are generally easier for kids and beginner to intermediate skiers to turn. – Sidewall Construction –
Skis are built in layers, sidewall constructions skis use a strip of material to seal off the core between the top layer and the core. Based on how skis with sidewalls are constructed, they are typically stiffer flexing and torsionally rigid therefore best suited for advanced skiers. Skis made using the sidewall construction method typically provide better edge hold especially on ice. – Partial Sidewall Construction – Skis made with hybrid or partial sidewall construction give you the best of both worlds. These skis use the cap construction style in the tips and tails with sidewall construction under the bindings. Skis constructed with Partial Sidewalls make it easy to initiate each turn while providing a stable turning platform. These skis are best suited for intermediates to expert level skiers.
The core is the interior of the ski. The core dictates how the ski will flex. Typically cores are constructed of composite material or wood. Laminates can also be added to the core to alter the performance of the skis. – Composite Core –
Composite Cores are typically made of some sort of engineered foam. This makes the skis nice and lightweight and allows them to flex easily. Composite Cores are typically reserved for beginner to intermediate skis, although you will see more advanced kids skis with composite cores too. – Wood Core –
Wood Core skis may be constructed out any of a variety of species of wood. Wood cores are more durable than composite cores and will retain their camber or rocker profiles longer. Wood Core skis are typically stiffer flexing in addition to be more rigid torsionally. Wood Cores are typically used in intermediate level skis and above.
Treat it like so.
Get a lesson. Go to a telemark festival. Check out our Telemark Tutorials.
If you are going to spend money and time to learn something new, why not do it right from the start. The funny part is that it is actually very close to Alpine skiing but with very precise things that you have to master first.
These are reviewer Paul Forward’s go-to bindings for work as a heli ski guide in Alaska, since they are the easiest binding he’s used to click into in deep snow (something that he has to do multiple times a day).
Part of what makes the STHso easy to step into is how easy it is to clear snow around the center post of the toe piece, and the relatively easy heel spring activation (especially compared to the Marker Jester). This all also holds true for the older, non-WTR version of the STH binding, except for the lack of WTR-boot compatibility. In addition, the WTR-version of the STHworks the best of anything we’ve used with rubber-soled boots, including WTR soles.
The only issue we’ve had with two particular pairs of STH bindings (of the or so pairs we’ve used frequently over the years) is that some of them have developed an issue with the toe height adjustment that results in not being able to lower the toe enough for standard alpine sole blocks.
These are very similar to the STH16, and like the 16-DIN version, they’re much easier to click into in deep snow than any of the Marker bindings we’ve used. We have, however, had a few pre-release issues with STH 13’s when set at the higher end of their DIN range, so if you are running your DIN at 11, 12, or 13, you might consider bumping up to the STH16.
Look Pivot 18
The LOOK Pivot 1is a favorite binding of a lot of hard-charging skiers, and you’ll often hear such folks say that they wouldn’t dream of skiing on anything else. Why? Typically, the mention the Pivot 18’s metal toes and heels, the range of elasticity / travel of the toes and the heels, and the consistency of the Pivot 18’s release — they release when they should, and not when they shouldn’t.
However, it’s worth noting that the new LOOK “Dual” Pivot 1and 1both actually have more toe elasticity than the Pivot 18, so those who were opting for the Pivot 1over the Pivot 1(or other bindings) primarily for the elasticity in the toe might think again.
Furthermore, while the Pivot 1has long been revered as one of the “safest” options available, it’s worth noting that the consistency of your release is impacted much more by how properly your binding is adjusted to your boot than by what model of binding you happen to be using.
At Blister, Joe Augusten still swears by the Pivot 18, primarily for its metal toe; Joe doesn’t trust plastic. Reviewers Jonathan Ellsworth and Mike Masiowski still very happily ski the Pivot 18, and don’t mind or notice the additional weight of the Pivot 1when skiing. And Jonathan in particular feels fine moving down to the Pivot 1(while running a DIN of or 11) and dropping a bit of weight.
Paul Forward still has a few pairs mounted up but they have largely fallen out of daily use for a few reasons: first, the rotating heel piece of the Pivot bindings can be a bit of a nuisance in deep snow. Overall, he still finds them to be easier to step into than the Marker Jester but not as quick as the Salomon STHbecause sometimes the heel piece needs to be re-aligned. Second, the Pivot 18, 14, and 1are also much harder to adjust to different boot sole lengths (and Pivots have a shorter range of adjustment) than the other bindings listed here, which makes swapping between boots more difficult and time consuming. And relatedly, it is more complicated to adjust the forward pressure on Pivot bindings than the other bindings here, but once you learn how to do it (or if you aren’t frequently swapping boots or adjusting your DIN settings) then this is a minor factor or a non-factor.
Look Pivot Dual 14
The old (non-WTR) LOOK Pivot 1was a favorite of many Blister reviewers, including Jonathan Ellsworth, thanks to its elasticity and consistent release. The downside is that they are a little bit finicky to work with, but many of us like the performance and feel of the bindings enough that this is what we continue to ski.
However, it’s worth noting that replacing the brakes on the Pivot family of bindings is a much more involved process than on any of the other models listed.
The new LOOK Pivot Dual 1is compatible with WTR soles. While the turntable design of the heel stayed the same, the WTR mechanism in the AFD required a substantial increase in the amount of plastic at the toe, which actually results in a more robust platform.
So while some skiers (including reviewer Alex Mueller) used to carry an extra AFD with them since the old Pivot 1could be prone to failure, the new version does not have this issue. The mechanism is solid, and does not result in a difference in toe height (boot angle). LOOK added the sliding AFD in order to help with the presence of Vibram soles on WTR AT boots. We suspect that this will also make the release on alpine boots even more reliable.
Look Pivot Dual 12
The Pivot Dual 1is very similar to the new Dual 14, but is a bit lighter and has a lower maximum release value. While none of us at Blister have skied the new Pivot 12, we’d recommend this to lighter skiers looking for the toe elasticity and on-snow feel of Pivot bindings.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Bindings wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Bindings
- №1 — 24 Pack of 18″ Red Jersey Flag with Wire Loop and Edge Binding
- №2 — 24 Pack of 18″ Red Jersey Flag with Pole and Edge Binding
- №3 — 24 pack of 18″ Red Jersey Flag with Grommets and Edge Binding