Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best Bows 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated February 1, 2018
Best Bows of 2018
If you’re scouring the market for the best bows, you’d better have the right info before spending your money. So this is not only going to give you an insight to the best bows of the 2018 but also those which are user friendly and easy to work with. I have taken the initiative to educate you on the top three best bows that you can buy this year. However, after giving you the TOP list, I will also give you some of the benefits you stand to gains for using it.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this bows win the first place?
The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The rear part fits perfectly! It is mounted really tight and reliable.
Why did this bows come in second place?
Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price.
Why did this bows take third place?
The material is incredibly nice to the touch. It has a great color, which will suit any wallpapers. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time.
Bows Buyer’s Guide
We strongly recommend reading our guide on How To Choose a Recurve Bow. It contains everything you need to know, including the accessories you should get.
Below are basic tips to help you determine what recurve bow to get. For a more detailed guide, please visit the link in the dotted green box above.
This should be the first question you ask yourself. There are many companies that make recurve bows out there, however the majority of them offer inferior products with one of the following problems:
If bow specifications seem like techno-gibberish to you, this section will help. What does it all mean? What matters? What doesn’t? Not to despair, we have this covered. By the end of this chapter you’ll be jawing modern archery jargon like an old pro. To get the basics, let’s start off with the fun stuff – diagrams. The discussions on this page often reference the various parts and regions of the compound bow. Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with the nomenclature from the diagrams below.
ARMSPAN METHOD WORKS!
We’ve utilized this method for fifteen years… the trusty Armspan/2.method. To measure your draw length requirement, determine the length of your arm-span in inches. Stand with your arms out and palms facing forward. Don’t stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally. Have someone else help you, and measure from the tip of one middle finger to the other. Then simply divide that number by 2.The quotient is your approximate draw length (in inches) for your body size. If you are a person of average proportions, your arm-span will be roughly equal to your height (in inches). So there is often a direct correlation between a person’s height and their draw length, so you may use the scale below if you wish. But if you are particularly lanky, stocky, etc., the arm-span/2.method will still yield the most reliable estimate.
DRAW WEIGHT RANGES
WHAT IS A DRAW WEIGHT? The draw weight of a compound bow is the amount of pulling force required to draw the string back – simple enough. But keep in mind, the draw weight of a compound bow is neither static or linear. That is to say, it isn’t like pulling on a rope with dead weight at the end – and the draw weight doesn’t get progressively harder the farther you draw the bow back (like a longbow). The draw weight of a compound bow is managed by the geometry of the cam system, so the required effort rises and then falls during the draw cycle. That’s sort of what makes a compound bow “compound.” The draw cycle is mechanically manipulated to maximize energy storage and give us some ergonomic advantages that traditional equipment cannot. As a general rule though, less effort is required at the beginning and at the end of the compound bow drawstroke, and somewhere in the middle of the powerstroke is the “peak weight” – “the hump” – the point where your maximum effort is required. This is where a compound bow’s draw weight is measured – at the heaviest point of the cycle.
HOW MUCH DRAW WEIGHT DO I NEED? We cover this issue in more detail in our
Compound Bow Fitment Guide, but for quick reference, here are some general guidelines for choosing an appropriate draw weight based on body type. Of course, each individual is different. You should apply your common sense here and interpret this chart with due respect to your own age and general physical condition.
Good to know
Arrows for compound bows aren’t that different from those used with a standard longbow. Both are usually made from either carbon or aluminum.
Do NOT attempt to launch an arrow with a wooden shaft using a compound bow. Extremely high tensile forces in action will probably break the shaft and could lead to injuries.
Tips to get started
Work out exactly what you need: Shooting a basic recurve bow, like they use in the Olympics, requires a riser, limbs, string, rest, button, sight, stabilisation and other accessories.
Plan a budget for what you want to spend on the kit. (Prepare to ignore it when you arrive in the shop and something catches your eye.)
The best time to buy a first bow is a short while after completing a beginners course. You will have perfected your basic form and a coach can assess more accurately what kind of specifications you need for your equipment.
Change is the enemy of a consistent archer. Once you buy your own bow, you may find it takes a while to get used to it, so do not expect your scores to increase suddenly! (Although, it’s not unknown for people to make vast improvements straight away.)
Before you choose your bow, keep in mind your draw length and how that affects the equipment. The overall height of the recurve bow (in inches) should be roughly your draw length plus 40in. Standard setups usually range from 66in-72in, although there is more variety for youth archers.
This is the part of the bow you will want to invest the most into. The riser is the foundation from which the rest of the bow is built, and will last you for years to come.
Your budget will dictate the kind of risers you will be looking at – but if you are able to visit a shop in person, pick up and hold as many as you can, feel the weight and balance in your hand. Many shops will have a range and let you test risers out.
The riser can be made from lots of different materials, such as wood (the more traditional choice), metal or carbon. Each have their own benefits and pitfalls.
Wooden and carbon risers are both very light, needing extra stabilisation to balance, while aluminium risers are extremely rugged. Wooden bows have a limited choice, and are usually the choice of those preferring to shoot traditionally, while metal and carbon risers take advantage of modern technologies.
Typical attributes of a good riser are good balance, good hand placement, straightness (a twisted riser is not a good riser) and geometry – as its shape and weight will affect how the limbs bend, how the bow reacts when it’s shot and how well it aims.
For beginners, growth and development of the archer is an important point to consider in selection of limbs. Most available on the market fit the ILF system (fitting the green riser on the right, below), which works cross-brand, with exceptions including screw-in and the newer Hoyt Formula fitting.
You are likely to outgrow your first set of limbs within a few months – therefore, one common recommendation is to buy limbs on the cheaper end of the market. This means that once you outgrow the limb, you can get a new pair without breaking the bank, and won’t be left with a top-of-the-range piece of kit you’ll need to sell.
For your first set of limbs, choose a poundage (that’s the weight of the limb when you pull it back) that is similar or slightly heavier than used during your previous shooting. Most adults will use poundage ranging from 18-32.
Each brand and range of limbs will offer a different feel when shot. Some are snappy, some are soft – some use the latest in fibreglass or carbon fibre technology, some are layered with foam and many, still, use wooden cores, often bamboo. Limb choice is a very personal thing.
Many shops offer a rental scheme for beginner limbs, which is an excellent option.
Strings come in various lengths, materials and thicknesses to fit your bow. Ensure that the string is the right length. Thicker strings (those with more strands), which are necessary for higher poundages, tend to be a little slower but may fit your chosen arrow nocks better.
Use a tied nocking point, if you can, rather than brass – as this will prolong the life of both string and finger tab.
Of the many colours available, top archers often use the simple white. In hot weather, the colour reflects – and won’t affect the string much. (Of course, if the string is properly stretched when made, you’re unlikely to see much change in it, anyway.)
Your sight should be the second-most invested-in piece of kit you buy. Quality is definitely something you pay for in this case, as a cheaper sight may rattle apart after several shots, or could be fragile and difficult to adjust.
More sophisticated sights have micro-adjustable parts, better build quality and superior materials. Pick something that is robust and reliable, as this piece of kit will stay with you for some time.
Button and Rest
Rests are available in plastic, fixed or magnetic varieties. A metal rest will be sturdier and will not require replacement. They are difficult to get used to for beginners but are an alternative to a plastic rest.
Some of the best scores in the world were shot with fixed plastic rests.
The button is essentially a spring that pushes the arrow away from the riser as it flies from the bow. It allows for precise adjustments and tuning of your arrows and is paired with the rest to optimise your shooting. There are some exceptionally good-value buttons on the market.
Choosing these bits of kit come down to personal preference and budget. There is a huge range of archery goods catering to archers of all levels and all styles, so if you’re uncertain about whether a piece of equipment – or its price – is suitable, ask!
Complete an introduction to archery course with a local club or range before purchasing equipment. World Archery highly recommends taking the advice of club members and coaches.
You can tune or adjust your bow release the way you want it. It’s critical to get an easy-to-adjust release to adhere to your posture and shooting. The bow release should be smooth and won’t change tensions once you let go of the string.
The PSE Surge Bow is a great buy because it is moderately priced but delivers top quality and power.
This single cam bow is very adjustable and powerful. It was designed to be used as a hunting bow and is ready to shoot right out of the box.
This is another selection that would be great for a beginner compound bow hunter. It is smooth and quiet while not being too difficult to master. Experienced archers will like this one if they are looking for a decent bow on a budget.
With great features and a moderate price range, PSE made the Prophecy to be one of the fastest bows on the market. This single cam bow is like lightning.
This particular bow is something for bow enthusiasts to get excited about. It is super fast and really packs a punch. This is a bargain for the money as it gives you all you could ask for from a moderately priced bow.
Not your starting compound bow, but it’s the next step up. It is super fast and really packs a punch. This is a bargain for the price as it gives you all you could ask for from a moderately priced bow.
Sure there’s a bit of a kick and some vibration to this bow, but that’s nothing a solid stabilizer can’t fix. Upgrades are your friend, but you won’t need too many with the PSE Prophecy.
The draw weight is the amount of force that it takes to draw back the bow and is measured in weight. The weight will increase as muscles become conditioned to shooting the bow. Start with a lower weight and work your way up as needed.
Some bows are adjustable to grow with you as your draw weight increases. A greater draw weight will increase velocity to the arrow and it is advised to hunt with a higher draw weight.
The let off is the point during the draw when the weight on the string decreases at a given percentage of the total draw. Once the let off engages, the archer can take their time aiming. The full amount of effort is required up until the let off point.
The percentage is usually between 60% and 75%. This is helpful especially when hunting. If you have to pause to track the animal then you will be able to hold your draw until you are ready to shoot.
All things being considered, these are the most important technical considerations when you are shopping for a compound bow.
Local Pro Shop
Archery shops, like fishing shops, are a great place to learn, hang out, and purchase equipment at. Yes, you can probably find it cheaper online. But if the shop owner, staff, and patrons are knowledgeable, helpful, and friendly, consider spending a few more bucks on an accessory item to keep them in business. Most pro shop staff members worth their salt will be able to fit you to a bow that will be both comfortable, ergonomic, and optimal for your body size and strength. Many shops also sell used bows or consign them for their customers. You can find a great deal this way, as most shops will throw in a free -, strings, arrows, etc with a deal. See what you find.
All that power but no way to aim sounds like a big waste to me. Accuracy is achieved through proper form, good sights, quality arrow rest, and a properly set up bow. The last are things you can pay for up front, but proper form must be learned over time. Invest in a good quality 3-pin sight (Apex, Cobra, Tru-Glo, Sword) a good quality on market arrow rest (WhiskerBiscuit, Trophy Ridge), and proper setup done by your pro shop.
Verdict: It is my number one best cheap recurve bow in the market and also a terrific selection for a novice hunter. Several oriented youth groups have used this bow for years. According to their review, the recurve bow tends to be a little bit louder than its size.
I would advise you to use the Whisker String silencers that help to lessen the noise. Overall: It is a decent bow for a 12-year-old and older and an ideal archery starting point.
Here are some things to keep in mind
Parallel limbs are ideal. In the older compound bows with close-to-vertical limbs, releasing the string resulted in the limbs accelerating forward. Some of this energy inevitably gets transferred to the riser, resulting in significant hand-schock. In newer, quality compounds, the limbs are almost parallel to each other when the bow is at full draw. When the string is released, the upper limb accelerates upwards, while the lower limb accelerates downwards, and the two forces almost cancel each other out. As a result, no excess energy is transferred to the riser, and hand-shock is pretty much non-existent.
Weight is a major consideration in choosing a crossbow. Heavy ones keep the weapon steady because the weight prevents from it moving easily. Some hunters prefer lighter crossbows for convenience while tracking their prey.
If you want a fast shot, choose the compound type of bow because it stores energy. Bolts also determine speed, so choose the right size and strength. If you buy a bow, the type of bolt required would be listed.
These weapons are produced by various manufacturers with different specialties. Check the most reputable ones by reading reviews of their products online. Choose the ones that match your needs and preferences. You can also find products that are highly rated by users themselves.
Modern crossbows are equipped with additional features for better accuracy, reliability and safety. Some are packaged with features, while others can be equipped with accessories to be purchased separately. Assess if you truly need these additional features.
Hunters find scopes highly advantageous. They are needed for accuracy of shots and they come in four variations, namely the optical, single red dot, multi-reticle and multi-red dot.
Barnett Quad 400
As these bows are becoming more popular in recreational activities (and more regulated because of it), expect more of these products to come out in the market. Manufacturers will always come up with something new, offering more features, gears, and accessories.
Avoid being confused about the bunch of items right before your eyes. Narrow down your choices by determining your needs, learning about your options and choosing which ones suit your needs and style. Furthermore, never forget your skills. Of course, you do not want to be a beginner forever, but it is rather practical to buy one you think could best match your skills.
Buying online could be a good option if you already know what you want. Take advantage of the various crossbow comparison websites found on the web to know the differences between them, since not all of them are the same. Aside from convenience, you can also compare prices on the web. Choose trusted websites, especially if you do not want to have any problems with your first attempt to buy a crossbow.
December 18, 2017
One of the most striking features of the bow saw is the strength. Its ergonomic design ensures that it can handle demanding tasks, especially on a construction site. Being lightweight, you will need to apply minimal energy to get the job done.
The saw is coated with high impact orange enamel paint. This ensures your saw is free from rust and corrosion. Besides this, the bright color reduces chances of losing your saw in the yard.
The saw features an orange paint covering to reduce cases of rust or corrosion. And, if you working in a bushy area you wouldn’t have to worry because you can easily locate your saw. Another likable attribute of this saw is the protective sheath.
Nothing is more disturbing than having to change blades regularly because of premature snapping. Most users of this saw have praised it for its effectiveness. Some have used it for a long time with minimal breakage. What makes it even more effective is its simple handle which features a knuckle guard.
Some have used it for a long time with minimal breakage. What makes it even more effective is its simple handle which features a knuckle guard.
Irwin 218HP300 12-Inch Combi-Saw
Looking for a bow saw to cut either wood or metal? If yes, don’t look further, Irwin 218HP300 12-Inch Combi-Saw is your best partner. The saw is flexible enough to cut both metal and wood without any hassle. Let’s first see some of its top features before we dive straight into the detailed review.
Safe and Easy to Use
The excellent Irwin 12-Inch Combi-Saw features knuckle guard which protects your fingers when sawing. The saw features a compact design for ease of storage and handling. Its innovative handle design offers ease of blade replacement. Moreover, the saw comes when ready to use, so there is no assembly required.
Its innovative handle design offers ease of blade replacement. Moreover, the saw comes when ready to use, so there is no assembly required.
This saw is often referred to as a beast of a bow saw because of its incredible length. It measures 3inches long and inches tall, but its blade has a massive length of 3inches. This bow saw is therefore suitable when dealing with specific jobs such as logging, heavy-duty farm, and construction work as well.
Steel Blade Construction
The 2inch Swedish Steel blade features incredibly hardened teeth which are perfect for all types of sewing tasks that you’re likely to handle while out in your outdoor adventures. Besides, its innovative design and construction quality makes it a perfect tool for handling sawing tasks around your garden and home as well.
Let’s now explore the pros and cons of the Sven Saw 21″ Saw
When you are not using the Filzer Buckster bow saw, you can effortlessly fold it downwards into a cylindrical tube. This feature makes the saw easy to transport and store. Also, during camping, a foldable bow saw is simple to pack into your backpack.
Strong and Powerful
The Filzer Buckster bow saw is incredibly strong. This saw will undoubtedly blow you away with its incredible power. This tool can saw through logs cleanly and quickly. This powerful tool can easily cut a log which is as much as 1inches in diameter! You can accomplish any task out there by use of this bow saw.
This powerful tool can easily cut a log which is as much as 1inches in diameter! You can accomplish any task out there by use of this bow saw.
A good bow saw should have a tension adjuster. This doesn’t need to be very elaborate, a lock handle and a thumb screw will serve the purpose. This allows you to adjust the blade’s tension that will, in turn, enhance the efficiency of the work you’re doing.
You should also consider buying a bow saw which is bright in color. A bright may be helpful when working amongst thick tree branches or undergrowth shrubs. Instead of the hassle and waste of time when trying to look for your saw, your saw will stand out brightly within your environment.
Power and Accuracy
Other than stealth the most important considerations when looking for a compound bow are power and accuracy.
The best compound bows are capable of exceeding 300 fps and as long as you can find a bow with this kind of power in your price range this is what you should be setting as your guideline.
Of course power is of no use if you don’t have an accurate shot and that’s why it’s important to find a bow with a smooth and straight release as well.
Draw Length and Weight
There is no perfect draw length and weight as that depends on your own physical make up, but the best compound bows allow you to adjust the draw weight and length.
Ideally you should be looking for a bow that allows you to adjust the draw length somewhere between 1and 3inches and the draw weight between 30 and 70lbs.
Shock and Vibration
Shock and vibration are two things that can significantly affect the accuracy of your shot.
High quality compound bows virtually eliminate these problems and allow you to take a smooth and accurate shot every time. This is usually achieved by installing shock absorbing materials that soak up the vibrations and allow you to achieve the best shot possible.
Excessive vibration can also be hard on the body so this is another advantage of choosing a compound bow with good shock absorbing qualities.
Compound bows can be made from a couple of different materials. Some kind of aluminum alloy is more common, but carbon fibre is sometimes used on more expensive models.
The advantage of carbon fibre is that it’s much lighter and also extremely strong. Aluminum alloy is still used in many top quality bows as it’s also a top quality material that’s fairly light weight as well.
This document has been written to explain the different types of bow commonly available, to explain the basic components of different types of bows and to give some guidance intended to help make the choice for your first bow. The advice here is aimed at beginners and it should be noted that the cost of bows with the required accessories can range from low hundreds of pounds through to thousands of pounds for pro level equipment.
When selecting your initial bow and accessories some professional advice and support is essential. It is absolutely not advised to buy your first bow online as opposed to visiting a shop, trying various options and having your complete package set up for you. Buying a bow at a shop should take a long time, with over two hours to try multiple options, select your bow, have it set up, arrows made and test firing. It is not uncommon for there to be long waits at popular times in shops and so it is advised to turn up early.
Talk to people in the club
As well as the advice given by shops there are a lot of regular archers in the club that have varying levels of experience and have tried out a lot of equipment. Most people are happy to show you their bows and to talk about equipment they like and equipment that did not work out for them. Ask nicely and people may well be willing to let you try some of the different equipment available.
A Cautionary Note
There are a wide range of possibilities buying your first bow from very cheap to very expensive and second hand equipment does not fetch good prices. If you buy a very cheap training bow and regularly attend to shoot you should expect to reach the limits of the bow very quickly and then need to spend more money buying a better bow. If you buy an expensive bow there are still some parts that you will probably end up replacing such as arrows and limbs as you improve and naturally move up to higher poundage limbs. The balance between equipment that you will quickly outgrow and managing your budget is down to the individual but the advice offered within this document is intended to provide a balance that gives a good starting point at a reasonable outlay.
There are main categories of shooting
Barebow – As implied by the name, the bow is shot without any accessories such as sights or stabilisers and in some cases without arrow rests. Traditional bows are typically shot barebow but sometimes recurve bows are also shot his way.
Typical Recurve – Under competition rules recurve bows can be fitted with an arrow rest a sight (unmagnified), clicker, stabilisers and weights / vibration dampers. As an initial starting point it is common to use a cheap sight, good arrow rest and sometimes a long rod with other accessories upgraded or added later. This is the most common style of shooting in the club.
Typical Compound – Compound bows are subject to different rules to recurve bows and are normally easier to shoot with greater accuracy. Compound bows will commonly be fitted with arrow rests, front sights which can be magnified, a peep sign (a small sight inserted into the bow string) and stabilisers.
The Complete Package
The remainder of this document is mostly concerned with the bow and arrows, but it should be highlighted that there will be a number of other items required to properly shoot and maintain your bow. Some typical prices are indicated in the bow sections that include an allowance for the following accessories:
Arm Guard £– from time to time (well quite frequently when you start out) the bow string will make contact with your arm. An arm guard deflects the string and prevents most of the pain and bruising. Arm guards are relatively cheap and available in a range of sizes. If choosing a compound bow choose an arm guard that errs on the side of big and well built!
Finger Tab – if shooting off the fingers (i.e. not a compound bow shot with a release aid) then a finger tab or shooting glove is required. The tabs are there for two main purposes, firstly to protect the fingers from the forces exerted by the bow string and secondly to help the bow string pass smoothly off the fingers with minimal friction. If possible, try out a few different styles to see what feels best.
Arrow Rest £1– some recurve risers come with a free arrow rest, and it is worth every penny that you paid for it! Most archers in the club are guided along the route of fitting a good quality magnetic arrow rest specifically the Spigarelli Magnetic Arrow Rest. A good recurve arrow rest is not particularly expensive at under £20. Compound bow shooters on the other hand are faced with a wide variety of different arrow rests with differing complexities and wildly ranging prices from £20 to £100
Pressure Button – these devices are needed to counteract some of the forces and movement generated as an arrow is shot and deflects with recurve bows. Some recurve risers come supplied with a free pressure button that is suitable for use and does not need replacing until your archery skills are more developed (by which time it is often worn out anyway). – there is a vast range of quality and pricing for sights ranging from a few pounds to several hundred. Top end sights have great stability and very fine adjustments but are only required when shooting long distances. It is recommended that a relatively low budget sight is used initially to minimise outlay whilst allowing the archer to progress to reasonable distances before further investment is required.
Stabilisers £1– these can be added to bow to aid the archer in holding the bow steady as well as reducing the level of vibration, it is common to start shooting a recurve bow without any and then add them later as required. Stabilisers vary greatly in price from £1for a basic long rod to hundreds of pounds for a complete set up. With an initial recurve bow purchase it is not necessary to buy any stabilisers but at most a low cost long rod can be added to the kit. If shooting compound, depending upon the bow configuration it can be a necessity to purchase a long rod in order to be able to use a clip on bow stand.
Bow String – (not compound) there are many different materials and visual options for bow strings but to begin with for a modern recurve a ‘Fast Flight’ type string (Such as Fast Flight Plus, 8190, 8125G etc) should be purchased (and not a Dacaron based string). For traditional bows a Dacaron (aka B50 or B55) string should be purchased.
Arrow Puller – not quite accurately named, they are lumps of silicone to aid the gripping of arrows to make removal from the target boss easier. They are commonly supplied in forms, a small square that wraps around the arrow or a larger cylindrical body with a slot cut in to fit the arrow. At an introductory level it is a matter of preference which is selected.
Bow Stringer – in order to string and de-string recurve and traditional bows it is a requirement to have a bow stringer which fits over the ends of the limbs and allows the archer to deflect the bow sufficiently to install or remove the string. There are other methods of achieving this but the use of a bow stringer is strongly recommended
Stand £– these will hold the bow safely and off the ground when not in use. For recurve and traditional bows there are different designs available but all essentially have a U shaped holder to sit the bow grip into and a small strip that the bow string slots into to keep the bow from moving. Whilst there are some complex stands available the best are generally some of the cheaper ones such as SF Chrome (YAM) stand. For compound bows it is common to use a clip on stand that grips the limbs to provide legs and depending upon the design, the bow either sits on the stand and bottom cam or the stand and long rod stabiliser
Bag / Case £3– to keep the bow and all accessories together and protected, a bow case provides storage for the bow, arrows and ever increasing amount of accessories that archers end up with. Recurve bows are typically carried around in backpacks which include an arrow storage tube and compound bows in hand carried bags. Long sleeves are available for the storage of traditional bows.
Quiver £1– with either its own belt or a clip to attach onto the archers’ belt, the Quiver is used to store arrows and other accessories whist shooting. Available with a wide range of pockets and extra pouches through to a simple arrow holder.
Clickers £– these are either spring strips or magnetic devices that have the arrow inserted under them until it is drawn back and the clicker is then free to swing back and hit the riser making a clicking noise. Opinion is divided if they should be used during the early stages or archery or not. Clickers help to ensure that arrows are drawn back a consistent distance each time but can lead to problems with archers anticipating the clicker and failing to develop correct and consistent technique.
Release Aid £100 – for use with compound bows, the release aid is used to hold the bow string, or a small loop added to the string with the release aid being held and pulled back to bring the bow to the shooting position. The release aid includes a trigger mechanism that releases the bow to shoot the arrow. Beware of cheap release aids as they can have a tendency to misfire, generally the club takes a dim view of people shooting their fellow members, even by accident. – there are some other small items that can be purchased including string wax (to be applied every few weeks to keep the string in good condition), spare nocks, fletching’s, points for arrows (minor costs but allow for repairs to be made when the inevitable happens)
Traditional bows are normally shot barebow i.e. they have no sights fitted or other modern aids. There are a selection of traditional bows available and Merlin Archery typically have a range available to try. Long Bows and Flat bows are made from staves of single wood or laminated wood strips and then machined to shape. Whilst they have nostalgia, in reality it is possible to shoot a modern recurve barebow with higher reliability and lower cost. If you are so inclined, it is possible to obtain plans for longbows and flatbows and then make your own bow.
Whilst there are a few traditional bows in the club, these are all used as an occasional bow to make a change from shooting a modern bow as opposed to peoples’ main activity. It should also be noted that traditional bows break, hopefully not until they have shot many thousands of arrows.
Typical cost of an entry level Traditional Bow £350 (Bow £250, Wooden Arrows £60, Misc £40)
For every archer, buying a compound bow will be an individual experience shaped by personal shooting style and skill level. While there are numerous factors that go into choosing the right compound bow for your particular needs, there are some guidelines that will help jump start your search.
There are advantages and disadvantages of solid vs. split limb bows, none of which can be proven or dis-proven.
The draw length of your new compound bow should be based on size, your size. Shooting a bow with a draw length that is too big will prove highly ineffective. It might give you more speed, but you will ultimately be uncomfortable while shooting and might give up some control over the arrow.
Factors You’ll Need to Consider When Selecting Arrows
So now you know the parts of an arrow. Now we’ll talk about the different features of an arrow, and why they’re important.
These concepts take a while to explain and they may be a little difficult to pick up, but don’t worry—by the end of the post, you’ll have a clear understanding of how it all plays together.
You wouldn’t believe it, but your arrow wiggles like a snake when it is shot. Check this out—it’s only seven seconds long, and it shows exactly what’s happening:
That wiggle is actually normal, and it’s related to something called “The Archer’s Paradox,” which, in a nutshell, is about how an arrow bends around the bow, yet still flies straight and hits your target.
In fact, not only is that wiggle normal, it’s an important aspect of buying an arrow, and it’s called “spine.” Different arrows are manufactured to have varying amounts of spine, and you want to find an arrow that has just the right amount of spine—not too little, so that it collapses on itself when it’s shot and wiggles all the way to the target, and not too much, because arrows that are too stiff aren’t accurate, and can actually fly sideways before straightening out.
Just to recap, before we go on: the bendability of an arrow is called “spine.” An arrow that bends a lot is referred to as “weak,” and an arrow that doesn’t bend a lot is referred to as “stiff.”
So what affects spine? What makes some arrows bend more than others? Here are a few of the main factors:
The Weight of the Bow. If you’re using a bow with a very high draw weight, you’re generally going to want to use a stiffer arrow, and if you’re using a bow with a low draw weight, you can use a weaker arrow. Try to close your eyes and imagine it—if you were to use a high-poundage bow and shoot a very weak arrow, the arrow would wiggle like crazy and shoot inaccurately. If you were to use a low-poundage bow and shoot a very stiff arrow, the arrow wouldn’t bend very much, and it wouldn’t go very far.
The Length of the Arrow. The longer an arrow gets, the stiffer it’s going to need to be. Imagine you have a wooden pointer—the kind that teachers used to use when they pointed at a chalk board. If that wooden point was three feet long, it probably wouldn’t bend if you held it up. Now imagine that it’s 100 feet long—it’s much easier to imagine it bending if you held it. Length of the arrow has a strong correlation to how bendable it is.
The Weight of the Point on the End of the Arrow. This is kind of fascinating. The weight of the tip of your arrow has a lot to do with how much your arrow bends. Imagine it like this: you’re holding one of those styrofoam pool noodles, and you use it to push over a paper cup that’s half-full of water. The cup would fall over, right? Now imagine you’re using that same pool noodle, but this time you’re trying to push a bowling ball. That bowling ball isn’t going anywhere, and your pool noodle is going to bend. The same concept goes for the point on your arrow. This is actually a really important part of an arrow purchase—especially if you’re a hunter and you’ve put a heavy broadhead on the end of your arrow—and we discuss it further in one of the sections below.
The Material and Size of the Arrow. We talk about this more in the “Materials” section, so we won’t get into it here, but the material that the arrow is made of—wood, aluminum, or carbon—affects the spine of the arrow.
The Cam, If You’re Using a Compound Bow. Stiffer arrows are needed for more aggressive cams, because aggressive cams put a lot of force on an arrow.
So that’s it! That’s spine. It’s a complicated idea, but hopefully that presents it in a very simple way. In one of the following sections, we’ll go over how you actually measure spine, but first, there are some other aspects about spine you should learn:
This is one of the first things you need to think about when selecting an arrow: length. You need to find your draw length, and the arrow that you buy needs to be longer than that. For beginners, it’s advised that you select arrows that are about 3.7inches (or about 9.cm) longer than your draw length; once you get a little experience under your belt and consider yourself an “intermediate,” you can begin to use arrows that are about inch (2.cm) longer than your personal draw length.
To find out your exact draw length, you can use a tool called a draw length indicator, and most pro shops have a draw length indicator you can use. The tool is basically an arrow with measurements on it, and you put the bow length indicator into the bow, draw the bow to your anchor point, and take note of the measurement at the end of the indicator. Then, when selecting arrows, you add 3.7inches to the measurement.
If you don’t have a draw length indicator, here’s a rough estimate on how to determine your draw length:
Put your arms out, side to side, and have someone measure your wingspan (if you’re alone, you can stand up next to a wall, put one hand out and mark a small pencil mark on the wall, then reach all the way out with your other hand, and make a small mark on the outside of your other hand). Whatever your wingspan is, take that number and divide it by 2.If your personal wingspan is 70 inches, your draw length will be 2inches (70 / 2.= 28).
The length of your arrows, mainly, is a safety issue. An arrow that’s too short is very, very dangerous—as you draw the arrow back, it’ll pull past the handle of your bow, and fall off the shelf or rest, all while you have the bow at full draw. Bad, bad, bad. You want to be certain that you’re using arrows that are the correct length. Arrows that are a little long may fly awkwardly, but when you’re a beginner, that’s a fair trade-off for safety.
There are two notes to keep in mind in regard to arrow length:
The diameter of an arrow is an important part of purchasing an arrow, and arrows are sold in a wide array of diameters. Here’s how it plays out:
Diameter is another important measurement, and in the sections below, we’ll go over the various ways that arrow manufacturers measure diameter.
The straighter the arrow, the better, and most manufacturers usually give a “straightness tolerance” in “+/-” terms—so, an arrow with a straightness tolerance of +/-.00of an inch is going to be straighter than an arrow with a straightness tolerance of +/-.00of an inch. As a general rule of thumb, the straighter the arrow, the more expensive it’s going to be.
Straightness is widely considered to be a little less important than spine; in other words, most archers are more concerned about getting an arrow with the proper spine than they are concerned about the straightness of an arrow.
Most carbon arrows are advertised as having a straightness between.00inches and.00inches, and in the grand schemes of things, that’s a very, very small difference. Straightness is a very important measurement, but most arrows these days are pretty straight.
The weight of an arrow is another important measurement. Weight is often measured in “grains,” or “grains per inch” (GPI). The grains per inch of an arrow are determined by a number of different factors, including:
The weight of the arrow you choose will be directly related to the poundage of your bow. In general, lighter bows use lighter arrows, and heavier bows require heavier arrows.
Hunters usually prefer heavier arrows, because a heavier arrow is going to retain more of its kinetic energy—that is, the energy it has when it is in motion—and the more kinetic energy it has, the more likely it will be to penetrate a target. Like much about archery, though, there is a trade-off—while heavier arrows keep more of their kinetic energy, they travel at lower speeds. Hunters spend a lot of time trying to find the right balance of factors, and a lot of their decisions come down to testing.
If you’re a beginner, all of the arrows you use should be the same weight. Shoot for a while with arrows the same weight, and then when you switch to a heavier or lower weight, you’ll be able to see the difference in results.
Last but not least, the weight of the tip. Archers can buy tips of varying weights depending on how they want the arrow to behave, and arrow companies usually recommend tips of various weights for specific arrows. In general, lighter poundage bows will work best with a lighter tip weight, and heavier poundage bows will work best with heavier tip weights. Hunters will usually want a heavier tip, and target archers may want a lighter tip.
This is another aspect of an arrow purchase that experienced archers will experiment with—they often get a number of different tips, and see how each performs on a given arrow.
If you’re worried about selecting tips, don’t be—a lot of arrows come pre-fletched, pre-nocked, and with screw-in tips—all you need to do is order the right length and the right weight, and they’ll come with tips included. We’ll show you have to do that below.
Different Types of Arrows Are Made from Different Materials
OK! Now that you know the different characteristics of arrows, let’s talk about the materials that arrows are made from. In general, there are four materials that most arrows are made from: wood, aluminum, carbon, and an aluminum/carbon mix.
The original arrow! These are very cost-effective, which makes them great for new archers, but they don’t last too long. They break, warp, and splinter, and because they’re made from organic material, they’re not uniform—meaning, the differences from arrow to arrow are great, and you’ll find that each arrow flies differently. These are generally popular with traditional archers and people who like to shoot longbows, but they’re almost never used in competitions. They are, however, great fun to make, and if you go online, you’ll find a LOT of archers fashioning wooden arrows.
Measurements for Wood Arrows
Wooden arrows are usually sold with four-digit numbers next to them. This is actually pretty simple: these arrows are for use with bows that weigh between 4and 5pounds. The first two digits of 455(in this case, 45) and the last two digits (in this case, 55) let us know these arrows are good for bows with a bow weight between 4and 5pounds.
This is an easy measurement, but it doesn’t tell you the kind of wood the arrow is made from, and it doesn’t tell you anything about the spine of the arrow, other than that it’s spined for arrows between 4and 5pounds. That’s usually OK, though—because people don’t usually use wooden arrows for target shooting or hunting, the spine number is a little less important.
Measurements for Aluminum Arrows
This measurement is somewhat similar to the measurement for wooden arrows, but it’s a little different. The first two numbers refer to the actual diameter of the arrow, and they’re measured in 64ths of an inch. The second two numbers refer to the thickness of the walls of the arrow, and they measure the wall thickness is thousands of an inch.
Isn’t that easy? No, no it’s not. But it’s how they do things!
Use An Arrow Chart
Arrow manufacturers usually have an arrow chart on their website. On it, you’ll choose what type of bow you’re using, your draw weight, your arrow length, and then see the recommended spine that the manufacturer thinks will work for you.
Here’s a made-up example of an arrow chart you might find:
Let’s say you’re using a recurve bow with a 42-pound draw weight, and you need 30-inch arrows. You’d look at the chart, go the column on the left-hand side that says “Recurve,” trace your finger down to the box that says “40-45″ (because your bow is between 40 and 4pounds) and then put your other finger on the top where it says “30” (because you were looking for 30-inch arrows) and then bring your fingers together, where they will meet on “500.” You then know that the proper spine for your arrows will be 500, and you can browse through the site, and any arrows that have a spine of 500 should be a good fit for your bow.
Sadly, it’s not always this easy—some arrow charts get really, really complicated, and some arrow manufacturers don’t even have them online. Some have an online tool you can use, where you enter your bow type, bow weight, draw length, and so on, and the tool returns a list of arrows you can use. Sadly, most companies don’t have this. Honestly, we don’t know why they don’t make it easier.
Go to An Online Retailer
You don’t need to buy directly from an arrow manufacturer; there are tons of big-name online stores that deliver straight to your home, and very often, it’s a lot easier to buy from these online stores than it is to buy from the archery company. You can read reviews from people who’ve already purchased the arrows, and you can ask questions, as well, and find out if an arrow is the right size and type for you.
Go to a Pro Shop
You can always go to a pro shop or archery store and ask specific questions to a trained professional. There are a lot of pro shop workers who don’t know their head from a hole in the ground, but there are also a lot of pro shop workers who are highly trained and really know what they’re talking about. Can’t hurt to go and ask questions!
ALPS OutdoorZ Pursuit Hunting Backpack
The ALPS Outdoor Z Pursuit is a backpack built with the hunter in mind. It’s great for taking on a day’s hunting trip. This pack nicely fits all the necessary gear, bearing the load with ease. With a weight of just pounds, the pursuit takes most of its weight from what you stuff in it.
And it can certainly accommodate all you have in its array of pockets and compartments. It has a large front pocket, the main pocket, lower side mesh pockets and an organizational front pocket. Its main feature is the weapons carry pockets.
First of all, it has a quiver holder to the side. This places the arrows conveniently within your reach and easily allow you to pull them out when in need. With the arrows comes a bow and the Pursuit backpack allows you to carry not one type but a variety of bow types.
Its designs allow you to secure a bow right at the front face, held in place by the lashing straps. Then, a drop down pocket holds the bow in place, preventing it from sliding off.
The body of the pack is made of a brushed mossy oak break-up country fabric. This is the fabric that thrives in the outdoors. It takes in the scratches that are bound to descend on it from bushes and branches, escaping unscathed. The material withstands the harsh outdoor conditions while keeping your safe inside.
For the eventual rainy moments, there’s a blaze orange rain cover that’s included with the Pursuit. Simply place it over the backpack to ward off the water, keeping it from entering the pack.
The padded back and waist belt provide comfort for your back and shoulders while carrying the load. This takes away the strain and allows you to go farther.
The Outdoor Z backpack has a design that fits different types of bows.
The drop down pocket can also fit a rifle.
With the range of pockets and compartments, this backpack provides enough room for all your gear.
The padded back and waist belt make it comfortable to carry the backpack.
Included in this pack is a blaze orange rain cover which keeps water from reaching the contents inside.
This pack doesn’t have a dedicated meat hauling pocket.
ALPS OutdoorZ Pathfinder Hunting Pack
This pack from ALPS Outdoor Z, the Pathfinder, is the epitome of versatility. Made by hunters, for the hunter, it brings to the table a fulfillment of all that one may need when on a hunting expedition.
The Pathfinder is a fanny pack. And as a fanny, it can carry up to a capacity of 800 cubic inches. I know what you’re thinking; that’s not enough for all your needs.
Well, not to worry because when you have lots to carry the Pathfinder can effortlessly transform from a fanny pack to a daypack. This is done by unrolling the daypack from inside the fanny. And when this happens, you get an additional 1900 cubic inches of carrying capacity. In total, you’ll have 2700 cubic inches to stuff your gear in.
And stuff you will see as there’s a range of pockets and compartments in the Pathfinder. There are two side pocket, front pocket, main pocket, the fanny pocket and the day pack pocket. But that’s not all. You also get a hauling mode and bow carrying mode. In the bow carrying mode, you have accommodation for whatever type of bow you own. It holds the bow securely, giving you easy access to it. Once you’ve gotten your prey, you can shift to the hauling mode where the pack provides extra space to haul your meat.
Then, for added comfort, the waist belt, and shoulder harness system are padded. This will also help distribute the weight evenly across your back making the load seem lighter than it actually is.
The Pathfinder backpack is a fanny pack with 800 cubic inches of carrying capacity.
It can transform into a daypack which gives an additional carrying capacity of 1900 cubic inches.
Using the bow carrying mode, you can securely fasten your bow onto the pack.
To carry the meat on your way back, there’s a hauling mode which provides extra fabric and straps that create extra space.
You can attach the ALPS Outdoor Z accessory pockets onto the pack for added compartments.
The padded waist belt and shoulder harness system make it comfortable to carry the Pathfinder.
The accessory pockets, which can be attached to the front of the harness, are sold separately.
Badlands 2200 Camouflage Hunting Backpack
Badlands are masters at engineering high-quality hunting backpacks. And nothing underscores this fact than their unconditional lifetime warranty. Indeed, this very offering shows us how confident they are in their workmanship that we are convinced that the Badlands backpacks are as spectacular as they claim to be. The 2200 Camouflage is one of their works of art.
With dimensions of 1inches by 1inches by 1inches, this pack leaves a large enough footprint to declare its ability to carry all we need. So, with eight pockets that combine to give a total of 2250 cubic inches carrying capacity, 2200 doesn’t cower from a load. Indeed, with the array of pockets, straps, and compartments, there’s no shortage of room for your hunting essentials. Then, on your way back, the meat will neatly sit on the meat shelf.
All this weight need not be a worry to you. This pack has an internal T-aircraft aluminum frame. It evenly distributes the weight on the pack and brings it to rest on your hips. Combine this with the bat wing design and the comfort of this pack is unmatched. You won’t feel the strain of carrying a massive weight even after hours with it on your back.
Made of Badlands’ famous KXO-3fabric, 2200 inherits the strength and durability of the material. This fabric keeps the pack looking good, in the face of harsh outdoor conditions. KXO-3is also waterproof, allowing you peace of mind even when you are out in the rain or perhaps fall in a pool of water. And as a cherry on the cake, the fabric gives the pack a silent quality which enables you to prey without having your presence given away.
The Badlands 2200 Camouflage backpack has a carrying capacity of 2250 cubic inches, more than enough for a day’s hunting trip.
Built into the pack is a T-aircraft aluminum frame which is not only strong but also makes carrying a large weight much easier.
Made of KXO-3fabric, this pack is impervious to scratches, giving it a high level of durability.
The pack is also waterproof, thanks to this KXO-3fabric.
The 2200 is compatible with not just a bow but also a rifle and a pistol.
ALPS OutdoorZ Traverse EPS Hunting Pack
Here’s another hunter’s dream daypack, the Traverse EPS Hunting Pack. This is a pack that gives you lots of room to pack your essentials. When you think it’s filled, it unleashes more space. The main storage capacity is a whopping 3300 cubic inches. Whatever you need to carry be it tripods, camera arms or even large items of clothing, this is quite enough room for all that.
Then, on your way back from the successful hunting trip, you’ll have your prize with you; the meat. The Traverse knows you’ll need space for it and therefore provides an expandable section that offers an extra 1200 cubic inches of storage space. The meat will neatly fit in here. Still, the extension lashing straps allow you to attach extra gear on the outside.
This massive load requires a clever system to allow you to carry it comfortably. The padded shoulder harness provides this. It takes the strain of the weight and relieves your back and shoulders to from feeling the pressure. Then, with the adjustable torso length, you;; find the perfect fit for you to be able to carry the pack for long.
There’s a drop down pocket which receives a bow securely holding it in place. This pocket is also compatible with a rifle. You also get a holster on the waist belt making this backpack ideal for hunters who want more than one kind of weapon.
ALPS Outdoor Z knows that nature can be very unpredictable. You might start your hunting day under a lovely sun only for the clouds to gather and shower you with unexpected rain. To mitigate this, the Traverse comes with a built in rain cover. Simply pull it out and lay it right over the backpack. It fits wonderfully, allowing rainwater to run off, protecting your gear from getting wet.
The Traverse hunting pack has a carrying capacity of 3300 cubic inches.
There’s an expandable pack section that offers an additional 1200 cubic inches, great for packing meat.
With the padded shoulder harness, you won’t feel the strain of carrying a heavy load.
The torso length is adjustable within ranges of 1to 20 inches, making it flexible enough to fit individuals of varied sizes comfortably.
The built in rain cover protects the contents of the pack from getting wet.
To carry your weapon, there’s a drop down pocket that accommodates a rifle or a bow.
ALPS OutdoorZ Matrix Hunting Pack
Once again, ALPS Outdoor Z gives us an amazing hunting backpack. This one is the Matrix Hunting pack. It has numerous pockets for carrying your hunting essentials; there’s a main pocket, two front wing pockets, two side mesh pockets and two waist belt pockets. All this combines to give you a total carrying capacity of 2700 cubic inches.
To give you support while carrying the massive load occupying the full capacity of the pack, there’s a center aluminum stay. This stay helps to evenly distribute the weight of the pack’s contents making it easier to carry the pack.
At the front face of the Matrix, a bow can be carried. This system is also able to carry a rifle easily. The weapons are secured in place, keeping them firmly held by the two padded straps that start in the middle of the backpack and wrap around the weapon. On the wing pockets, you can insert your arrows and have them conveniently placed by your side, easy to remove when needed.
With a hydration pocket and port included, you won’t have to worry about removing your backpack to reach for your water. Simply insert a compatible reservoir, attach a bladder and keep yourself hydrated while on the go.
Then, since it might rain, you don’t want your gear to get damaged. To counter this eventuality, there’s a built-in orange rain cover. The cover neatly lays over the pack and protects it from getting wet.
The packs total carrying capacity of 2700 cubic inches allows you to carry all your hunting essentials.
With a center aluminum stay, the pack is supported while bearing the large load.
The blaze orange rain cover keeps the pack protected when it rains.
Having a design that allows the carrying of a bow, rifle or even a crossbow, this is a very versatile pack.
The hydration pocket and port allow for carrying of a hydration reservoir to keep you supplied with water.
The ALPS Outdoor Z Matrix pack doesn’t have a dedicated meat hauling system.
Eberlestock XHunting Bagpack
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Bows wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Bows
- №1 — 40Pcs Grosgrain Ribbon Pinwheel Boutique Hair Bows Clips For Girls
- №2 — 20pcs 6″ Hair Bows Girls Kids Children Grosgrain Ribbon Large Bows Alligator Hair Clips
- №3 — Bows for Gifts – Christmas Bows for Presents – 36 Peel and Stick