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Best Nocks 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated February 1, 2018
Best Nocks of 2018
If you’re reading this, it is very likely that you’re scouting for the best nocks. I review the three best nocks on the market at the moment.
I’ve based my selection methodology on customer feedback, the size, functionality, and budget to meet various demands. Check them out and decide which one suits you the best to splurge upon.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this nocks win the first place?
I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days.
Why did this nocks come in second place?
Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed.
Why did this nocks take third place?
I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. The material is incredibly nice to the touch. It has a great color, which will suit any wallpapers. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time.
Nocks Buyer’s Guide
Target points, sometimes called field points, are used for when you are practicing with a target. The points are not meant for piercing through the flesh of an animal, so there is nothing sharp on the target points. The tips on target points is rounded just enough to penetrate a target with ease. If you want the best bolts for your crossbow, you’ll want to get the bolts that allow you to screw in the target points rather than buying the bolts that have cheap points glued to the top end of the arrow.
Press Fit Nocks
The press fit nock is your standard arrow nock that simply press into the back end of your carbon or aluminum shaft. If you prefer to use the press fit nock the biggest thing to keep in mind is your arrow shaft’s diameter. Not all arrow shafts come in the same dimensions, and you will need to buy nocks that fit your arrow precisely. This may require you to buy nocks produced by the company that manufactured your arrows. Once you have your nocks in hand just press them in and you are good to go.
The main benefit of these nocks is their ease of installation and their affordability. That’s not to mention they generally come already mounted to nearly any arrow you buy. If you are the type who just likes to keep things simple, and cheap, they may be a good choice for you.
Another nock option for archers out there are pin nocks. Pin nocks are designed with two separate components. First off, there is an aluminum insert that gets glued into your arrow shaft. This insert has a small pin protruding out the back. After your insert has been glued in you merely snap the plastic nock onto the pin.
Pin nocks mainly address the special needs of competition shooters out there. The major benefit they offer those shooters is arrow protection. We’ve all probably had a “Robin Hood” (shoot one arrow into the back of another) before, and the first few times it is pretty cool. After a while though, those Robin Hood arrows just start to look like broken arrows. This is also true for crossbow shooters in general; the top crossbows nowadays are balanced and accurate enough that hitting the same spot with multiple arrows is quite common, even among beginners. (Just make sure the manufacturer of your crossbow has nothing against using a pin nock, for safety reasons.)
Pin nocks help prevent arrow damage in this situation. If you happen to hit your arrow, you will still break the plastic nock, but not the aluminum insert. To get your arrow operable once again you simply swap the broken nock with a new nock and get back to shooting. If you are experiencing a big problem breaking arrows “Robin Hood” style, spending some time shopping around for a good pin nock might be worth the effort.
Locating Your Hit Easily
Most of the time, hunting is best at dawn, and it may be a bit difficult to observe if your arrow has hit its mark or not. Due to the heat of the moment, it could be a little tedious to remember the precise location of the target. This information is necessary to track down the animal or leave it till it’s worn out.
A right lighted bow nock would ensure you can easily see where you struck your mark with ease and also provide you with the capacity to see the extent of penetration made by your arrow.
Find Your Arrow’s Position Simply
Finding an arrow would help you determine if you hit your mark correctly or not. But sometimes this could be a very daunting task especially if your arrow gets lodged in the dark areas of the wood. When tracking an animal in the dark or during the day, light up arrow nocks can assist you in locating your illuminated arrow.
Lumenok Signature Nock
What ultimately tipped us over this nock are the three red LEDs that can last for 40 hours to give you a clear view to trace your target and retrieve your arrow.
Unfortunately, this lighted nock seems to be more complicated, far larger than other nocks on this list. Well, the reason for this is due to the large dose of material and moving parts that was packed into their build and construction, making it a heavier nock.
Factors You’ll Need to Consider When Selecting Arrows
So now you know the parts of an arrow. Now we’ll talk about the different features of an arrow, and why they’re important.
These concepts take a while to explain and they may be a little difficult to pick up, but don’t worry—by the end of the post, you’ll have a clear understanding of how it all plays together.
You wouldn’t believe it, but your arrow wiggles like a snake when it is shot. Check this out—it’s only seven seconds long, and it shows exactly what’s happening:
That wiggle is actually normal, and it’s related to something called “The Archer’s Paradox,” which, in a nutshell, is about how an arrow bends around the bow, yet still flies straight and hits your target.
In fact, not only is that wiggle normal, it’s an important aspect of buying an arrow, and it’s called “spine.” Different arrows are manufactured to have varying amounts of spine, and you want to find an arrow that has just the right amount of spine—not too little, so that it collapses on itself when it’s shot and wiggles all the way to the target, and not too much, because arrows that are too stiff aren’t accurate, and can actually fly sideways before straightening out.
Just to recap, before we go on: the bendability of an arrow is called “spine.” An arrow that bends a lot is referred to as “weak,” and an arrow that doesn’t bend a lot is referred to as “stiff.”
So what affects spine? What makes some arrows bend more than others? Here are a few of the main factors:
The Weight of the Bow. If you’re using a bow with a very high draw weight, you’re generally going to want to use a stiffer arrow, and if you’re using a bow with a low draw weight, you can use a weaker arrow. Try to close your eyes and imagine it—if you were to use a high-poundage bow and shoot a very weak arrow, the arrow would wiggle like crazy and shoot inaccurately. If you were to use a low-poundage bow and shoot a very stiff arrow, the arrow wouldn’t bend very much, and it wouldn’t go very far.
The Length of the Arrow. The longer an arrow gets, the stiffer it’s going to need to be. Imagine you have a wooden pointer—the kind that teachers used to use when they pointed at a chalk board. If that wooden point was three feet long, it probably wouldn’t bend if you held it up. Now imagine that it’s 100 feet long—it’s much easier to imagine it bending if you held it. Length of the arrow has a strong correlation to how bendable it is.
The Weight of the Point on the End of the Arrow. This is kind of fascinating. The weight of the tip of your arrow has a lot to do with how much your arrow bends. Imagine it like this: you’re holding one of those styrofoam pool noodles, and you use it to push over a paper cup that’s half-full of water. The cup would fall over, right? Now imagine you’re using that same pool noodle, but this time you’re trying to push a bowling ball. That bowling ball isn’t going anywhere, and your pool noodle is going to bend. The same concept goes for the point on your arrow. This is actually a really important part of an arrow purchase—especially if you’re a hunter and you’ve put a heavy broadhead on the end of your arrow—and we discuss it further in one of the sections below.
The Material and Size of the Arrow. We talk about this more in the “Materials” section, so we won’t get into it here, but the material that the arrow is made of—wood, aluminum, or carbon—affects the spine of the arrow.
The Cam, If You’re Using a Compound Bow. Stiffer arrows are needed for more aggressive cams, because aggressive cams put a lot of force on an arrow.
So that’s it! That’s spine. It’s a complicated idea, but hopefully that presents it in a very simple way. In one of the following sections, we’ll go over how you actually measure spine, but first, there are some other aspects about spine you should learn:
This is one of the first things you need to think about when selecting an arrow: length. You need to find your draw length, and the arrow that you buy needs to be longer than that. For beginners, it’s advised that you select arrows that are about 3.7inches (or about 9.cm) longer than your draw length; once you get a little experience under your belt and consider yourself an “intermediate,” you can begin to use arrows that are about inch (2.cm) longer than your personal draw length.
To find out your exact draw length, you can use a tool called a draw length indicator, and most pro shops have a draw length indicator you can use. The tool is basically an arrow with measurements on it, and you put the bow length indicator into the bow, draw the bow to your anchor point, and take note of the measurement at the end of the indicator. Then, when selecting arrows, you add 3.7inches to the measurement.
If you don’t have a draw length indicator, here’s a rough estimate on how to determine your draw length:
Put your arms out, side to side, and have someone measure your wingspan (if you’re alone, you can stand up next to a wall, put one hand out and mark a small pencil mark on the wall, then reach all the way out with your other hand, and make a small mark on the outside of your other hand). Whatever your wingspan is, take that number and divide it by 2.If your personal wingspan is 70 inches, your draw length will be 2inches (70 / 2.= 28).
The length of your arrows, mainly, is a safety issue. An arrow that’s too short is very, very dangerous—as you draw the arrow back, it’ll pull past the handle of your bow, and fall off the shelf or rest, all while you have the bow at full draw. Bad, bad, bad. You want to be certain that you’re using arrows that are the correct length. Arrows that are a little long may fly awkwardly, but when you’re a beginner, that’s a fair trade-off for safety.
There are two notes to keep in mind in regard to arrow length:
The diameter of an arrow is an important part of purchasing an arrow, and arrows are sold in a wide array of diameters. Here’s how it plays out:
Diameter is another important measurement, and in the sections below, we’ll go over the various ways that arrow manufacturers measure diameter.
The straighter the arrow, the better, and most manufacturers usually give a “straightness tolerance” in “+/-” terms—so, an arrow with a straightness tolerance of +/-.00of an inch is going to be straighter than an arrow with a straightness tolerance of +/-.00of an inch. As a general rule of thumb, the straighter the arrow, the more expensive it’s going to be.
Straightness is widely considered to be a little less important than spine; in other words, most archers are more concerned about getting an arrow with the proper spine than they are concerned about the straightness of an arrow.
Most carbon arrows are advertised as having a straightness between.00inches and.00inches, and in the grand schemes of things, that’s a very, very small difference. Straightness is a very important measurement, but most arrows these days are pretty straight.
The weight of an arrow is another important measurement. Weight is often measured in “grains,” or “grains per inch” (GPI). The grains per inch of an arrow are determined by a number of different factors, including:
The weight of the arrow you choose will be directly related to the poundage of your bow. In general, lighter bows use lighter arrows, and heavier bows require heavier arrows.
Hunters usually prefer heavier arrows, because a heavier arrow is going to retain more of its kinetic energy—that is, the energy it has when it is in motion—and the more kinetic energy it has, the more likely it will be to penetrate a target. Like much about archery, though, there is a trade-off—while heavier arrows keep more of their kinetic energy, they travel at lower speeds. Hunters spend a lot of time trying to find the right balance of factors, and a lot of their decisions come down to testing.
If you’re a beginner, all of the arrows you use should be the same weight. Shoot for a while with arrows the same weight, and then when you switch to a heavier or lower weight, you’ll be able to see the difference in results.
Last but not least, the weight of the tip. Archers can buy tips of varying weights depending on how they want the arrow to behave, and arrow companies usually recommend tips of various weights for specific arrows. In general, lighter poundage bows will work best with a lighter tip weight, and heavier poundage bows will work best with heavier tip weights. Hunters will usually want a heavier tip, and target archers may want a lighter tip.
This is another aspect of an arrow purchase that experienced archers will experiment with—they often get a number of different tips, and see how each performs on a given arrow.
If you’re worried about selecting tips, don’t be—a lot of arrows come pre-fletched, pre-nocked, and with screw-in tips—all you need to do is order the right length and the right weight, and they’ll come with tips included. We’ll show you have to do that below.
Different Types of Arrows Are Made from Different Materials
OK! Now that you know the different characteristics of arrows, let’s talk about the materials that arrows are made from. In general, there are four materials that most arrows are made from: wood, aluminum, carbon, and an aluminum/carbon mix.
The original arrow! These are very cost-effective, which makes them great for new archers, but they don’t last too long. They break, warp, and splinter, and because they’re made from organic material, they’re not uniform—meaning, the differences from arrow to arrow are great, and you’ll find that each arrow flies differently. These are generally popular with traditional archers and people who like to shoot longbows, but they’re almost never used in competitions. They are, however, great fun to make, and if you go online, you’ll find a LOT of archers fashioning wooden arrows.
Measurements for Wood Arrows
Wooden arrows are usually sold with four-digit numbers next to them. This is actually pretty simple: these arrows are for use with bows that weigh between 4and 5pounds. The first two digits of 455(in this case, 45) and the last two digits (in this case, 55) let us know these arrows are good for bows with a bow weight between 4and 5pounds.
This is an easy measurement, but it doesn’t tell you the kind of wood the arrow is made from, and it doesn’t tell you anything about the spine of the arrow, other than that it’s spined for arrows between 4and 5pounds. That’s usually OK, though—because people don’t usually use wooden arrows for target shooting or hunting, the spine number is a little less important.
Measurements for Aluminum Arrows
This measurement is somewhat similar to the measurement for wooden arrows, but it’s a little different. The first two numbers refer to the actual diameter of the arrow, and they’re measured in 64ths of an inch. The second two numbers refer to the thickness of the walls of the arrow, and they measure the wall thickness is thousands of an inch.
Isn’t that easy? No, no it’s not. But it’s how they do things!
Use An Arrow Chart
Arrow manufacturers usually have an arrow chart on their website. On it, you’ll choose what type of bow you’re using, your draw weight, your arrow length, and then see the recommended spine that the manufacturer thinks will work for you.
Here’s a made-up example of an arrow chart you might find:
Let’s say you’re using a recurve bow with a 42-pound draw weight, and you need 30-inch arrows. You’d look at the chart, go the column on the left-hand side that says “Recurve,” trace your finger down to the box that says “40-45″ (because your bow is between 40 and 4pounds) and then put your other finger on the top where it says “30” (because you were looking for 30-inch arrows) and then bring your fingers together, where they will meet on “500.” You then know that the proper spine for your arrows will be 500, and you can browse through the site, and any arrows that have a spine of 500 should be a good fit for your bow.
Sadly, it’s not always this easy—some arrow charts get really, really complicated, and some arrow manufacturers don’t even have them online. Some have an online tool you can use, where you enter your bow type, bow weight, draw length, and so on, and the tool returns a list of arrows you can use. Sadly, most companies don’t have this. Honestly, we don’t know why they don’t make it easier.
Go to An Online Retailer
You don’t need to buy directly from an arrow manufacturer; there are tons of big-name online stores that deliver straight to your home, and very often, it’s a lot easier to buy from these online stores than it is to buy from the archery company. You can read reviews from people who’ve already purchased the arrows, and you can ask questions, as well, and find out if an arrow is the right size and type for you.
Go to a Pro Shop
You can always go to a pro shop or archery store and ask specific questions to a trained professional. There are a lot of pro shop workers who don’t know their head from a hole in the ground, but there are also a lot of pro shop workers who are highly trained and really know what they’re talking about. Can’t hurt to go and ask questions!
The nock is made from either plastic or aluminum in most cases, and it is attached to the back of the shaft. The purpose of a nock is to keep the bolt in place as you line up for the shot.
There are two primary types of nocks to be found on crossbow bolts: the half-moon (top image on the left), and the flat nock (bottom image). The half-moon nock has a groove that you will need to align with your string before you can fire the bolt.
Tips to get started
Work out exactly what you need: Shooting a basic recurve bow, like they use in the Olympics, requires a riser, limbs, string, rest, button, sight, stabilisation and other accessories.
Plan a budget for what you want to spend on the kit. (Prepare to ignore it when you arrive in the shop and something catches your eye.)
The best time to buy a first bow is a short while after completing a beginners course. You will have perfected your basic form and a coach can assess more accurately what kind of specifications you need for your equipment.
Change is the enemy of a consistent archer. Once you buy your own bow, you may find it takes a while to get used to it, so do not expect your scores to increase suddenly! (Although, it’s not unknown for people to make vast improvements straight away.)
Before you choose your bow, keep in mind your draw length and how that affects the equipment. The overall height of the recurve bow (in inches) should be roughly your draw length plus 40in. Standard setups usually range from 66in-72in, although there is more variety for youth archers.
This is the part of the bow you will want to invest the most into. The riser is the foundation from which the rest of the bow is built, and will last you for years to come.
Your budget will dictate the kind of risers you will be looking at – but if you are able to visit a shop in person, pick up and hold as many as you can, feel the weight and balance in your hand. Many shops will have a range and let you test risers out.
The riser can be made from lots of different materials, such as wood (the more traditional choice), metal or carbon. Each have their own benefits and pitfalls.
Wooden and carbon risers are both very light, needing extra stabilisation to balance, while aluminium risers are extremely rugged. Wooden bows have a limited choice, and are usually the choice of those preferring to shoot traditionally, while metal and carbon risers take advantage of modern technologies.
Typical attributes of a good riser are good balance, good hand placement, straightness (a twisted riser is not a good riser) and geometry – as its shape and weight will affect how the limbs bend, how the bow reacts when it’s shot and how well it aims.
For beginners, growth and development of the archer is an important point to consider in selection of limbs. Most available on the market fit the ILF system (fitting the green riser on the right, below), which works cross-brand, with exceptions including screw-in and the newer Hoyt Formula fitting.
You are likely to outgrow your first set of limbs within a few months – therefore, one common recommendation is to buy limbs on the cheaper end of the market. This means that once you outgrow the limb, you can get a new pair without breaking the bank, and won’t be left with a top-of-the-range piece of kit you’ll need to sell.
For your first set of limbs, choose a poundage (that’s the weight of the limb when you pull it back) that is similar or slightly heavier than used during your previous shooting. Most adults will use poundage ranging from 18-32.
Each brand and range of limbs will offer a different feel when shot. Some are snappy, some are soft – some use the latest in fibreglass or carbon fibre technology, some are layered with foam and many, still, use wooden cores, often bamboo. Limb choice is a very personal thing.
Many shops offer a rental scheme for beginner limbs, which is an excellent option.
Strings come in various lengths, materials and thicknesses to fit your bow. Ensure that the string is the right length. Thicker strings (those with more strands), which are necessary for higher poundages, tend to be a little slower but may fit your chosen arrow nocks better.
Use a tied nocking point, if you can, rather than brass – as this will prolong the life of both string and finger tab.
Of the many colours available, top archers often use the simple white. In hot weather, the colour reflects – and won’t affect the string much. (Of course, if the string is properly stretched when made, you’re unlikely to see much change in it, anyway.)
Your sight should be the second-most invested-in piece of kit you buy. Quality is definitely something you pay for in this case, as a cheaper sight may rattle apart after several shots, or could be fragile and difficult to adjust.
More sophisticated sights have micro-adjustable parts, better build quality and superior materials. Pick something that is robust and reliable, as this piece of kit will stay with you for some time.
Button and Rest
Rests are available in plastic, fixed or magnetic varieties. A metal rest will be sturdier and will not require replacement. They are difficult to get used to for beginners but are an alternative to a plastic rest.
Some of the best scores in the world were shot with fixed plastic rests.
The button is essentially a spring that pushes the arrow away from the riser as it flies from the bow. It allows for precise adjustments and tuning of your arrows and is paired with the rest to optimise your shooting. There are some exceptionally good-value buttons on the market.
Choosing these bits of kit come down to personal preference and budget. There is a huge range of archery goods catering to archers of all levels and all styles, so if you’re uncertain about whether a piece of equipment – or its price – is suitable, ask!
Complete an introduction to archery course with a local club or range before purchasing equipment. World Archery highly recommends taking the advice of club members and coaches.
Good to know
Arrows for compound bows aren’t that different from those used with a standard longbow. Both are usually made from either carbon or aluminum.
Do NOT attempt to launch an arrow with a wooden shaft using a compound bow. Extremely high tensile forces in action will probably break the shaft and could lead to injuries.
This document has been written to explain the different types of bow commonly available, to explain the basic components of different types of bows and to give some guidance intended to help make the choice for your first bow. The advice here is aimed at beginners and it should be noted that the cost of bows with the required accessories can range from low hundreds of pounds through to thousands of pounds for pro level equipment.
When selecting your initial bow and accessories some professional advice and support is essential. It is absolutely not advised to buy your first bow online as opposed to visiting a shop, trying various options and having your complete package set up for you. Buying a bow at a shop should take a long time, with over two hours to try multiple options, select your bow, have it set up, arrows made and test firing. It is not uncommon for there to be long waits at popular times in shops and so it is advised to turn up early.
Talk to people in the club
As well as the advice given by shops there are a lot of regular archers in the club that have varying levels of experience and have tried out a lot of equipment. Most people are happy to show you their bows and to talk about equipment they like and equipment that did not work out for them. Ask nicely and people may well be willing to let you try some of the different equipment available.
A Cautionary Note
There are a wide range of possibilities buying your first bow from very cheap to very expensive and second hand equipment does not fetch good prices. If you buy a very cheap training bow and regularly attend to shoot you should expect to reach the limits of the bow very quickly and then need to spend more money buying a better bow. If you buy an expensive bow there are still some parts that you will probably end up replacing such as arrows and limbs as you improve and naturally move up to higher poundage limbs. The balance between equipment that you will quickly outgrow and managing your budget is down to the individual but the advice offered within this document is intended to provide a balance that gives a good starting point at a reasonable outlay.
There are main categories of shooting
Barebow – As implied by the name, the bow is shot without any accessories such as sights or stabilisers and in some cases without arrow rests. Traditional bows are typically shot barebow but sometimes recurve bows are also shot his way.
Typical Recurve – Under competition rules recurve bows can be fitted with an arrow rest a sight (unmagnified), clicker, stabilisers and weights / vibration dampers. As an initial starting point it is common to use a cheap sight, good arrow rest and sometimes a long rod with other accessories upgraded or added later. This is the most common style of shooting in the club.
Typical Compound – Compound bows are subject to different rules to recurve bows and are normally easier to shoot with greater accuracy. Compound bows will commonly be fitted with arrow rests, front sights which can be magnified, a peep sign (a small sight inserted into the bow string) and stabilisers.
The Complete Package
The remainder of this document is mostly concerned with the bow and arrows, but it should be highlighted that there will be a number of other items required to properly shoot and maintain your bow. Some typical prices are indicated in the bow sections that include an allowance for the following accessories:
Arm Guard £– from time to time (well quite frequently when you start out) the bow string will make contact with your arm. An arm guard deflects the string and prevents most of the pain and bruising. Arm guards are relatively cheap and available in a range of sizes. If choosing a compound bow choose an arm guard that errs on the side of big and well built!
Finger Tab – if shooting off the fingers (i.e. not a compound bow shot with a release aid) then a finger tab or shooting glove is required. The tabs are there for two main purposes, firstly to protect the fingers from the forces exerted by the bow string and secondly to help the bow string pass smoothly off the fingers with minimal friction. If possible, try out a few different styles to see what feels best.
Arrow Rest £1– some recurve risers come with a free arrow rest, and it is worth every penny that you paid for it! Most archers in the club are guided along the route of fitting a good quality magnetic arrow rest specifically the Spigarelli Magnetic Arrow Rest. A good recurve arrow rest is not particularly expensive at under £20. Compound bow shooters on the other hand are faced with a wide variety of different arrow rests with differing complexities and wildly ranging prices from £20 to £100
Pressure Button – these devices are needed to counteract some of the forces and movement generated as an arrow is shot and deflects with recurve bows. Some recurve risers come supplied with a free pressure button that is suitable for use and does not need replacing until your archery skills are more developed (by which time it is often worn out anyway). – there is a vast range of quality and pricing for sights ranging from a few pounds to several hundred. Top end sights have great stability and very fine adjustments but are only required when shooting long distances. It is recommended that a relatively low budget sight is used initially to minimise outlay whilst allowing the archer to progress to reasonable distances before further investment is required.
Stabilisers £1– these can be added to bow to aid the archer in holding the bow steady as well as reducing the level of vibration, it is common to start shooting a recurve bow without any and then add them later as required. Stabilisers vary greatly in price from £1for a basic long rod to hundreds of pounds for a complete set up. With an initial recurve bow purchase it is not necessary to buy any stabilisers but at most a low cost long rod can be added to the kit. If shooting compound, depending upon the bow configuration it can be a necessity to purchase a long rod in order to be able to use a clip on bow stand.
Bow String – (not compound) there are many different materials and visual options for bow strings but to begin with for a modern recurve a ‘Fast Flight’ type string (Such as Fast Flight Plus, 8190, 8125G etc) should be purchased (and not a Dacaron based string). For traditional bows a Dacaron (aka B50 or B55) string should be purchased.
Arrow Puller – not quite accurately named, they are lumps of silicone to aid the gripping of arrows to make removal from the target boss easier. They are commonly supplied in forms, a small square that wraps around the arrow or a larger cylindrical body with a slot cut in to fit the arrow. At an introductory level it is a matter of preference which is selected.
Bow Stringer – in order to string and de-string recurve and traditional bows it is a requirement to have a bow stringer which fits over the ends of the limbs and allows the archer to deflect the bow sufficiently to install or remove the string. There are other methods of achieving this but the use of a bow stringer is strongly recommended
Stand £– these will hold the bow safely and off the ground when not in use. For recurve and traditional bows there are different designs available but all essentially have a U shaped holder to sit the bow grip into and a small strip that the bow string slots into to keep the bow from moving. Whilst there are some complex stands available the best are generally some of the cheaper ones such as SF Chrome (YAM) stand. For compound bows it is common to use a clip on stand that grips the limbs to provide legs and depending upon the design, the bow either sits on the stand and bottom cam or the stand and long rod stabiliser
Bag / Case £3– to keep the bow and all accessories together and protected, a bow case provides storage for the bow, arrows and ever increasing amount of accessories that archers end up with. Recurve bows are typically carried around in backpacks which include an arrow storage tube and compound bows in hand carried bags. Long sleeves are available for the storage of traditional bows.
Quiver £1– with either its own belt or a clip to attach onto the archers’ belt, the Quiver is used to store arrows and other accessories whist shooting. Available with a wide range of pockets and extra pouches through to a simple arrow holder.
Clickers £– these are either spring strips or magnetic devices that have the arrow inserted under them until it is drawn back and the clicker is then free to swing back and hit the riser making a clicking noise. Opinion is divided if they should be used during the early stages or archery or not. Clickers help to ensure that arrows are drawn back a consistent distance each time but can lead to problems with archers anticipating the clicker and failing to develop correct and consistent technique.
Release Aid £100 – for use with compound bows, the release aid is used to hold the bow string, or a small loop added to the string with the release aid being held and pulled back to bring the bow to the shooting position. The release aid includes a trigger mechanism that releases the bow to shoot the arrow. Beware of cheap release aids as they can have a tendency to misfire, generally the club takes a dim view of people shooting their fellow members, even by accident. – there are some other small items that can be purchased including string wax (to be applied every few weeks to keep the string in good condition), spare nocks, fletching’s, points for arrows (minor costs but allow for repairs to be made when the inevitable happens)
Traditional bows are normally shot barebow i.e. they have no sights fitted or other modern aids. There are a selection of traditional bows available and Merlin Archery typically have a range available to try. Long Bows and Flat bows are made from staves of single wood or laminated wood strips and then machined to shape. Whilst they have nostalgia, in reality it is possible to shoot a modern recurve barebow with higher reliability and lower cost. If you are so inclined, it is possible to obtain plans for longbows and flatbows and then make your own bow.
Whilst there are a few traditional bows in the club, these are all used as an occasional bow to make a change from shooting a modern bow as opposed to peoples’ main activity. It should also be noted that traditional bows break, hopefully not until they have shot many thousands of arrows.
Typical cost of an entry level Traditional Bow £350 (Bow £250, Wooden Arrows £60, Misc £40)
Arrow Precision make a wide range of crossbows and accessories, including crossbows, scopes, arrows, crossbow cases, cocking devices, wax, quivers and replacement parts: limbs and strings
There well know crossbow range known as Inferno Crossbows have included well-made crossbows models by the names of Scorch, Flame, Firestorm, Wildfire, Blaze, Hellfire, Blitz, Heat and Fury (very fire related!) They have 1crossbow models in all suitable for beginners up to experienced shooters and a range of crossbows for youths as well.
Their crossbows have good safety features, like the thumb guard and an anti-dry fire trigger mechanism.
Overall the crossbows are well made and affordable, sitting at the cheaper end of the market
To begin, you must first have a clear understanding as to where you will like to utilize the arrow rest. Can it be for target or hunting shooting? Therefore, it is necessary to know and understand this so as to enhance your movements. Many would rather choose a containment kind of arrow rest because of its extreme tight hang on the arrow, however, there are also individuals who make use of arrow rest because of fast speed arrows.
Regarding target shooting, few people prefer lightweight arrow rests that will not get in contact with the prongs or some other things that may in any way block its flight upon discharge.
You can acquire a lot of experience from setting it up since It is not difficult to integrate the arrow rest. Some kind of arrow rest models is more difficult to install than others. Therefore, it is highly advisable to have the shop attendant to handle it for you for the first time.
As time goes on and you have a clearer understanding of doing it yourself after then you can control what should be controlled to your own satisfaction to get more agreeable and more precise shooting.
Obviously, you want to purchase arrow rest to enhance your performance and accuracy in archery. Finding the best model for yourself is a necessity and mustn’t be taken with levity. Arrow rest can provide you with nice features because it doesn’t touch the arrow when it is released.
With arrow rest, you won’t have to deal with the arrow’s feather-end being destroyed because of fast speed arrows. That means your arrow won’t have to drop anymore when you are not concentrating because of its large prongs features that support the arrow shaft.
In spite of the fact that the arrow rest can possibly be as expensive as it could influence your financial plan, it doesn’t frustrate you in any way. It all depends on you whether you purchase an arrow rest kind that has a medium price or a top-notch quality.
Arrow Rest Selection Tip
Arrow rests are much the same as other bows and arrows parts, yet the distinction is their significant resting usefulness. It has been observed that some will have extreme performance than others. Before heading off to your next arrow rest merchant, make sure you keep the below tips in mind:
Arrow Powder Testing
It is essential to powder test your arrow paying little attention to the rest that you are making use of. You can make use of some foot splash white powder toward the finish of every bolt. Attempt shooting it into a short target and check whether you can distinguish the fletching and shaft for visual imprints. In case you discover any visual imprint, align and retest the arrow until the imprints are no longer found in the fletching. Obviously, you should try figuring out how to do this as you plan to buy your best arrow rest.
It is advisable to first set the alignment of the shot when mounting the rest on your bow. This can be accomplished by arranging your arrow focus to the left side (in case you are right-handed) of the line that is the string.
Ripcord Fall Away Arrow Rest
One of the best arrow rests you can ever come across is the Quality Archery Designs Ultra rest Pro HDX arrow rest. When they say genius, they really mean it since this rest can truly hold your arrow intelligently.
Constructed to be productive, this arrow rest is constructed with top range stainless steel and also accompanied by another genuine tree AP shading alongside the standard dark shading. Most of the time, the arrow tends to move position. But, this won’t be an issue with the Ultra rest pro. The arrow will always remain in position.
The pack likewise is accompanied by a DVD to demonstrate to you the whys and hows. The rest is even integrated with inventive technological components like propelled vibration which limits excessive vibration. Other key functionality incorporated into the rest includes velocity drop away innovation and lock down mechanism.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Nocks wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Nocks
- №1 — Nockturnal-S Lighted Nocks for Arrows with .244 Inside Diameter including various Carbon Tech
- №2 — SAS Precision .245 “Standard Carbon” Nock – Dozen 12/Pack
- №3 — Carbon Express Launchpad Precision Nock