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Best Quivers 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated February 1, 2018
Best Quivers of 2018
You must have heard that the best quivers should allow you to save money, right? Sure, but that’s not the only reason you should consider getting one. So this is not only going to give you an insight to the best quivers of the 2018 but also those which are user friendly and easy to work with.
I must say I am quite a fan of quivers, so when the question “What are the best quivers available on the market?” came to my mind, I excitedly started gathering information together with personal experience to write this article in the hope that it may help you find the suitable quivers. If you get well acquainted with these basics, you shouldn’t have a problem choosing a quivers that suits your need.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this quivers win the first place?
I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse.
№2 – Krayney Back Arrow Quiver Archery Shoulder Hanged Carry Hunting Target Arrow Quiver Bag with 2 Pockets
Why did this quivers come in second place?
Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice.
Why did this quivers take third place?
I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. I hope that the good reputation of the manufacturer will guarantee a long-term work. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built.
Quivers Buyer’s Guide
The rest of these items are handy, but they are not necessary to have. They’ll make your archery a bit more fun, though, so these are definitely things to put on your wish list for later on down the road, when you know that archery is something you’re going to stick with. a) Sight
A sight is used to help you aim your bow. Most recurve bows don’t include sights, because many recurve bow archers prefer the challenge of instinctive shooting, or shooting without the aid of an aiming aid like a sight or another point of reference. Still, sights are perfectly legitimate to use, and can sometimes help the beginning archer learn where to look and how to aim for instinctive shooting. See our guide on recurve bow sights for specific recommendations. b) Quiver
A quiver is a container used for holding your arrows before you shoot them. Sometimes, archers will just stick their arrows into the ground, but this can be tough on the arrows and arrow tips and inconvenient for the archer. Some quivers attach to the bow while some are worn around the waist or shoulder. Quivers make it much quicker to pull a new arrow for the next shot. It’s not an essential bit of equipment, but it’s definitely nice to have. c) String Whisker Silencers
Whisker silencers are lightweight rubber silencers that reduce the noise of your bowstring without compromising the performance of your bow. These are not so important for backyard or target archery, but they are wonderful add-ons to your bowstring when you start bow hunting.
The OMP No Spill Quiver
If you’re the kind of gal or guy who HATES extras, add-ons, or bells and whistles of any kind, the OMP No Spill Quiver is what you’re looking for.
It is a quiver, and it holds arrows, and it’s got some pictures of leaves on it. For those of you who appreciate WYSIWYG products (“what you see if what you get”), this is it.
That may sound disparaging, but I don’t mean it to be. This is an excellent quiver that’s lightweight, simple, and easy to store, and if you’re going to the range to relax and let a few arrows loose, and you don’t need a ton of storage space or room for oodles are arrows, this is a great option.
The most attractive aspect of this quiver is the “no spill” feature. If you’re klutzy or have less experience, that’s a fantastic thing.
The Mossy Oak Sidekick Hip Quiver
The Mossy Oak Sidekick Hip Quiver is the most basic quiver you can find: it’s super super lightweight (0.ounces), it’s made of fabric, and it holds two dozen or so arrows. If you want a super-simple product, made to hold your arrows at the range, this is it!
This is a good option, and there are plenty of people at my local range who use it, and—this is probably the main reason why I’ve included this one—I’ve gotten a few emails from people who were asking about no-frills, lo-fi option. Here you go!
The Belt Quiver
There’s one additional product you may want to look at, and that’s a universal belt. A lot of these quivers are just quivers—there’s no belt included—and they attach to the belt you’re wearing, or a loop in your jeans.
I’m not always wearing a belt, and if I’m going to the range from the gym or something, I’m sometimes wearing shorts or pants that don’t have loops. That’s where a universal belt is a good purchase.
Universal belts are pretty simple, so you don’t need to do too much research—an adjustable nylon belt will do it.
One last note: If you’re new to archery, you might be surprised at how much of the arrow’s shaft sticks up out of the quiver. It’s a little bit surprising, because, say, 30% or more of the arrow may be exposed, but that’s totally normal. That doesn’t mean you got a defective quiver; that’s just how a lot of them are made.
Additional Features to Consider
Some of the contemporary quivers on the market have tubes inside the quiver. The tubes are fantastic for keeping your arrows organized. The quivers with tubes also make for easier arrow access when you want to pull an arrow out.
When in the market for a quiver, make sure you give due consideration to the model’s size. The unit has to be big enough to hold your shafts/arrows and spacious enough to hold several arrows comfortably. Some quivers can hold four or five arrows while others can hold ten or more. You have to give thought as to where you will use your bow and arrow. You must figure out if you plan to tote a lot of arrows with you when you travel, to determine which quiver is going to work for you and your personal style.
Some units are sold with lids: A perfect solution for a hunter who will need to keep arrows dry and protected from the outdoor elements. In addition to protection from the elements, a hunter will want a camouflaged model: Today’s quivers are sold in a wide selection of colors, including several camo options.
LimbSaver Silent Quiver
Credits for its ultra-quiet performances are given to the Noise and Vibration Control Material-NAVCOM technology that has been employed in its design. NAVCOM dampens vibrations together with any other unwanted noise.
No hunter wants to startle the game with noise from their hunting gear. Other features include the double rubber grippers that hold nearly any arrow shaft size in place.
Quiver types vary in respect to the archery styles used. The quiver you would use for field archery may not be the best for hunting or even tournaments. Below are the main types
Belt quivers also differ as per where they sit. The most portable and by extension the smallest are the pocket quivers. These are designed for fitting in the back pockets with the target quivers forward-facing.
Belt quivers offer convenience whenever it isn’t easy to reach up to the back quivers. They are however a bit cumbersome when you are maneuvering through bushes. For better movement in bushes, go for those quivers having leg straps to hold it closest to your body.
Are either left or right handed with a good number of them being ambidextrous. These quivers are diagonally strapped across your chest with the archer being required to reach up and pull out an arrow from the top of the quiver.
Some new innovations come with detaching systems that pulls the quiver down thus allowing you to pull arrows from the side/belt style position. Back quivers are always the most convenient as far as carrying is concerned.
They are virtually metal stands that are stuck on the ground with arrows placed in a circular loop. These quivers are only practical in tournament archery
They are attached to the bow thus holding the arrows to the bow itself. The speed and convenience that comes with arrow pulling from such quivers make them very popular in bow hunting.
They are, however, not the best options for beginners as such quivers add weight to the bow thus affecting one’s aim and control
The choice of material determines the durability and performance of your quiver. The choice of material needs to be lightweight and durable.
Factory made quivers mainly feature foam and nylon webbing, whereas the traditional quiver enthusiasts will go a notch higher to acquire leather quivers.
Where metallic accessories are needed, aluminum should be chosen because of its durability and lightweight characteristics.
Experienced hunters will tell you that a slight movement can startle the game thereby making you miss out on a great opportunity. One of the things that can make you make uncalled for movements is if the arrows are hard to extract.
How to Choose the Right Quiver for Your Bass
It really is down to a matter of preference. In terms of aesthetics, the slim bass bow quiver is more discreet and is partially hidden by the tailpiece, whereas the triangular topped quiver is fully visible beside the tailpiece. During use, there are a few differences the slim bass bow quiver has a smaller opening for landing the bass bow but it holds the bow better meaning less movement from the bow when it’s in the quiver.
The triangular topped double bass bow quiver has a much larger opening giving really easy landing of the bow, but this also allows the bow more freedom to move whilst in the quiver. The slim quiver is smaller in length at 36cm compared to the triangular topped quiver which is 45.5cm so it will fit smaller double basses better for younger bassists.
This armor is magical, and not only because of the rate it depletes your rupees. That’s right, this armor runs on money, and while it may not be cheap, it’ll keep you well protected.
So how do you get this armor, you may ask? Begin by donating 1,000 rupees to the elder Goron in Malo Mart in Kakariko Village. Afterward, provide them with 2,000 more so they can open a store in Castle Town. Visit the shop in the southwest corner of Castle Town Square and purchase the armor for 59rupees.
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If choosing a quivertip leaves you trembling in confusion, do not fear, our guide will remove the mystery and solve all your problems…
Watching the quivertip on your leger rod twang round is certain to get your heart racing.
However, selecting the correct quivertip for a particular fishing situation can mean the difference between a red letter day and a blank.
Here’s a list of the factors that affect quivertip choice: >> CASTING WEIGHT
The heavier the feeder/leger weight, the stronger the tip should be. If you use too light a tip it will either not cast the weight properly or, worse still, actually break on the cast! >> FLOW OR UNDERTOW
If the tip is dragged right round, by the flow on a river or undertow on a stillwater, you will not be able to see the bites. You should step up the strength of the tip to compensate. >> SIZE OF FISH
If you’re targeting shy biting silverfish use a very light tip. For larger species like carp, tench and barbel, you should use a heavier tip. The bites from these species aren’t shy and they will often try to pull the rod in.
QUIVERTIPS EXPLAINED >> STRENGTH
All quivertips have a test curve or strength rating. A test curve is the amount of weight it takes to bend the tip to 90 degrees. Glass tips tend to be 2oz or less, whereas carbon tips can be a strong as 6oz. >> TIP MATERIAL
Quivertips are made from two types of material, carbon or glass fibre.
CARBON tips are stiffer and generally have a higher strength rating (2oz to 6oz).
GLASS tips have a soft, progressive action and are produced in lower test curves (0.5oz to 2.5oz).
The two materials are identified by the colour of the tips base. Carbon tips have a dark base; glass tips have a clear or white base. >> TIP EYE
The size of the tip’s end eye can be a giveaway sign to the strength of the tip. Generally, the larger the eye the heavier the tip, as it is designed to be used for distance casting and thicker lines.
Ladder Tree Stand –
If you’re into comfort and additional functionality, ladder tree stands are your best option. It’s a fixed tree stand with a ladder integrated on it. Sit on it comfortably while hunting for your target on a tree, and when you need to go down to track your game, you can easily go down the trunk using the ladder.
Roberts White Diamond: For any day that the wind is light and waves are small but rampy. The big diamond tail on the WDholds so much gas that you can accelerate so quickly. The smaller outline also allows for tight turns in the pocket even when it’s knee high!
My Hetro Dims 6’x 19.7x 2.44
Takayama Scorpion: Summer days and summer flatness is no longer a thing to worry about. The Takayama Scorpion paddles like a longboard, catches waves in the same way but behaves more like a shortboard when up and going. I love to ride this board with small fins to do slides and 360s in the small waves of summer. If you have never tried one, make sure you do. It’s a ‘make you stoked’ shape that limits the summer doldrums!
This document has been written to explain the different types of bow commonly available, to explain the basic components of different types of bows and to give some guidance intended to help make the choice for your first bow. The advice here is aimed at beginners and it should be noted that the cost of bows with the required accessories can range from low hundreds of pounds through to thousands of pounds for pro level equipment.
When selecting your initial bow and accessories some professional advice and support is essential. It is absolutely not advised to buy your first bow online as opposed to visiting a shop, trying various options and having your complete package set up for you. Buying a bow at a shop should take a long time, with over two hours to try multiple options, select your bow, have it set up, arrows made and test firing. It is not uncommon for there to be long waits at popular times in shops and so it is advised to turn up early.
Talk to people in the club
As well as the advice given by shops there are a lot of regular archers in the club that have varying levels of experience and have tried out a lot of equipment. Most people are happy to show you their bows and to talk about equipment they like and equipment that did not work out for them. Ask nicely and people may well be willing to let you try some of the different equipment available.
A Cautionary Note
There are a wide range of possibilities buying your first bow from very cheap to very expensive and second hand equipment does not fetch good prices. If you buy a very cheap training bow and regularly attend to shoot you should expect to reach the limits of the bow very quickly and then need to spend more money buying a better bow. If you buy an expensive bow there are still some parts that you will probably end up replacing such as arrows and limbs as you improve and naturally move up to higher poundage limbs. The balance between equipment that you will quickly outgrow and managing your budget is down to the individual but the advice offered within this document is intended to provide a balance that gives a good starting point at a reasonable outlay.
There are main categories of shooting
Barebow – As implied by the name, the bow is shot without any accessories such as sights or stabilisers and in some cases without arrow rests. Traditional bows are typically shot barebow but sometimes recurve bows are also shot his way.
Typical Recurve – Under competition rules recurve bows can be fitted with an arrow rest a sight (unmagnified), clicker, stabilisers and weights / vibration dampers. As an initial starting point it is common to use a cheap sight, good arrow rest and sometimes a long rod with other accessories upgraded or added later. This is the most common style of shooting in the club.
Typical Compound – Compound bows are subject to different rules to recurve bows and are normally easier to shoot with greater accuracy. Compound bows will commonly be fitted with arrow rests, front sights which can be magnified, a peep sign (a small sight inserted into the bow string) and stabilisers.
The Complete Package
The remainder of this document is mostly concerned with the bow and arrows, but it should be highlighted that there will be a number of other items required to properly shoot and maintain your bow. Some typical prices are indicated in the bow sections that include an allowance for the following accessories:
Arm Guard £– from time to time (well quite frequently when you start out) the bow string will make contact with your arm. An arm guard deflects the string and prevents most of the pain and bruising. Arm guards are relatively cheap and available in a range of sizes. If choosing a compound bow choose an arm guard that errs on the side of big and well built!
Finger Tab – if shooting off the fingers (i.e. not a compound bow shot with a release aid) then a finger tab or shooting glove is required. The tabs are there for two main purposes, firstly to protect the fingers from the forces exerted by the bow string and secondly to help the bow string pass smoothly off the fingers with minimal friction. If possible, try out a few different styles to see what feels best.
Arrow Rest £1– some recurve risers come with a free arrow rest, and it is worth every penny that you paid for it! Most archers in the club are guided along the route of fitting a good quality magnetic arrow rest specifically the Spigarelli Magnetic Arrow Rest. A good recurve arrow rest is not particularly expensive at under £20. Compound bow shooters on the other hand are faced with a wide variety of different arrow rests with differing complexities and wildly ranging prices from £20 to £100
Pressure Button – these devices are needed to counteract some of the forces and movement generated as an arrow is shot and deflects with recurve bows. Some recurve risers come supplied with a free pressure button that is suitable for use and does not need replacing until your archery skills are more developed (by which time it is often worn out anyway). – there is a vast range of quality and pricing for sights ranging from a few pounds to several hundred. Top end sights have great stability and very fine adjustments but are only required when shooting long distances. It is recommended that a relatively low budget sight is used initially to minimise outlay whilst allowing the archer to progress to reasonable distances before further investment is required.
Stabilisers £1– these can be added to bow to aid the archer in holding the bow steady as well as reducing the level of vibration, it is common to start shooting a recurve bow without any and then add them later as required. Stabilisers vary greatly in price from £1for a basic long rod to hundreds of pounds for a complete set up. With an initial recurve bow purchase it is not necessary to buy any stabilisers but at most a low cost long rod can be added to the kit. If shooting compound, depending upon the bow configuration it can be a necessity to purchase a long rod in order to be able to use a clip on bow stand.
Bow String – (not compound) there are many different materials and visual options for bow strings but to begin with for a modern recurve a ‘Fast Flight’ type string (Such as Fast Flight Plus, 8190, 8125G etc) should be purchased (and not a Dacaron based string). For traditional bows a Dacaron (aka B50 or B55) string should be purchased.
Arrow Puller – not quite accurately named, they are lumps of silicone to aid the gripping of arrows to make removal from the target boss easier. They are commonly supplied in forms, a small square that wraps around the arrow or a larger cylindrical body with a slot cut in to fit the arrow. At an introductory level it is a matter of preference which is selected.
Bow Stringer – in order to string and de-string recurve and traditional bows it is a requirement to have a bow stringer which fits over the ends of the limbs and allows the archer to deflect the bow sufficiently to install or remove the string. There are other methods of achieving this but the use of a bow stringer is strongly recommended
Stand £– these will hold the bow safely and off the ground when not in use. For recurve and traditional bows there are different designs available but all essentially have a U shaped holder to sit the bow grip into and a small strip that the bow string slots into to keep the bow from moving. Whilst there are some complex stands available the best are generally some of the cheaper ones such as SF Chrome (YAM) stand. For compound bows it is common to use a clip on stand that grips the limbs to provide legs and depending upon the design, the bow either sits on the stand and bottom cam or the stand and long rod stabiliser
Bag / Case £3– to keep the bow and all accessories together and protected, a bow case provides storage for the bow, arrows and ever increasing amount of accessories that archers end up with. Recurve bows are typically carried around in backpacks which include an arrow storage tube and compound bows in hand carried bags. Long sleeves are available for the storage of traditional bows.
Quiver £1– with either its own belt or a clip to attach onto the archers’ belt, the Quiver is used to store arrows and other accessories whist shooting. Available with a wide range of pockets and extra pouches through to a simple arrow holder.
Clickers £– these are either spring strips or magnetic devices that have the arrow inserted under them until it is drawn back and the clicker is then free to swing back and hit the riser making a clicking noise. Opinion is divided if they should be used during the early stages or archery or not. Clickers help to ensure that arrows are drawn back a consistent distance each time but can lead to problems with archers anticipating the clicker and failing to develop correct and consistent technique.
Release Aid £100 – for use with compound bows, the release aid is used to hold the bow string, or a small loop added to the string with the release aid being held and pulled back to bring the bow to the shooting position. The release aid includes a trigger mechanism that releases the bow to shoot the arrow. Beware of cheap release aids as they can have a tendency to misfire, generally the club takes a dim view of people shooting their fellow members, even by accident. – there are some other small items that can be purchased including string wax (to be applied every few weeks to keep the string in good condition), spare nocks, fletching’s, points for arrows (minor costs but allow for repairs to be made when the inevitable happens)
Traditional bows are normally shot barebow i.e. they have no sights fitted or other modern aids. There are a selection of traditional bows available and Merlin Archery typically have a range available to try. Long Bows and Flat bows are made from staves of single wood or laminated wood strips and then machined to shape. Whilst they have nostalgia, in reality it is possible to shoot a modern recurve barebow with higher reliability and lower cost. If you are so inclined, it is possible to obtain plans for longbows and flatbows and then make your own bow.
Whilst there are a few traditional bows in the club, these are all used as an occasional bow to make a change from shooting a modern bow as opposed to peoples’ main activity. It should also be noted that traditional bows break, hopefully not until they have shot many thousands of arrows.
Typical cost of an entry level Traditional Bow £350 (Bow £250, Wooden Arrows £60, Misc £40)
Early season in Grand Targhee Resort
These were the issues I faced when upgrading from my rigid Trek 820 Mountain Track. I needed suspension, better brakes, a larger frame for a better fit, access to better components, wider handlebars… need I go on? My Trek got me into mountain biking and had been all over from Kentucky to Kansas to Utah to Idaho and beyond.
Riding the Trek 820 on Crystal Springs Trail, Pocatello, Idaho
Omniterra: The word means “all earth.” That’s what a fat bike is truly capable of. Fat tires, though not a replacement for suspension, still offer more grip and damping than a rigid 29” or 27.5” wheelset. Fat tires also enable year-round riding without limitations.
Sheep Bridge Trail / Teton Canyon, Wyoming. Photo: Tom Clayson
Obviously, this goes without saying that a fat bike is capable of such. When considering purchasing a fat bike, keep in mind what and where you will be riding. I would recommend you look at frames that support up to 5”-wide tires. You won’t use them in summer, but you’ll be glad you have the option when winter comes. That said, 3.8” tires will get you through most snow conditions. Check out our comprehensive guide to fat bike tires.
What We Like
We tested this board on an 8-day trip to Surfari Charters in Nicaragua. Surf ranged from waist high to feet overhead. We surfed river mouths, beach breaks, reef breaks and points.
Nica test quiver: (top to bottom) Maurice Cole Prowtow,…Lost Baby Buggy, Maurice Cole Dirty Dingo,…Lost Quiver Killer
Here are the things that really impressed us most about this board:
This is a great single board for all but the smallest and biggest surf….Lost Quiver Killer top of the stack and ready to attack.
We spent most of our time surfing out of a boat, so not only was space tight, but a lot of times you were paddling in to the waves rather than out to them. This makes judging the wave size and power a bit harder. We found the Quiver Killer to be a trusty “go to” no matter where we were surfing and how big or small the surf was.
The…Lost Baby Buggy (left) and Quiver Killer (right).
It handled the medium to larger stuff as well as the outline and tail shape would indicate. Great paddle speed to get in early and set your line. The roundtail drew really smooth lines and held with confidence in the barrel.
We surfed a few bigger days in a wide range of wave types from long walled up points to heaving, thick beach break barrels. In the larger walled up points, the Quiver Killer had noticeable drive down the line plus good glide thru long wraps on flatter faces. On the beachies, the Quiver Killer got you in early and made setting up for the barrel easier. The roundtail was easier to control on the steeper faces than the squash tail that is standard on the Short Round. Small, medium, big. Flat, walled up or heaving. The Quiver Killer killed it all.
Impressively loose and nimble in smaller waves
Even in the small stuff, the Quiver Killer shows some zip and gets the job done.
As impressive as the overall range, was the Quiver Killer’s performance in smaller surf. Most of the time, when you take a board with an outline like this and try and make it work in smaller waves, it feels long and stiff. The Quiver Killer’s width combined with just a pinch of additional overall rocker made it feel loose and nimble in smaller waves.
You can obviously grovel with more speed and power on a…Lost Puddle Jumper or similar, but the Quiver Killer performs admirably in the smaller stuff and is loose and fast enough to keep you stoking. We had some days, where at the wrong tides, surf dropped to thigh to waist high over cobble stone reef. The Quiver Killer felt right at home, surfing loose and fast in the pocket. The wider/flatter nose gets you into waves easily and with speed, setting you up to tear apart little zippers.
The Quiver Killer seemed to cover a slightly wider range of surf than the…Lost Mini Driver, especially on the small side and with front footed surfers. The Mini Driver is still a popular and relevant design and excels in punchier surf especially with neutral or back-footed surfers.
While the Quiver Killer covered everything we encountered, you may still want something narrower on the bigger/hollower days. The Quiver Killer held fine, it just felt slower rail to rail when you really didn’t need the extra width for any part of the session. If all you’re surfing are flatter faced waves or walled up points, it will handle and excel in anything you can paddle it into.
Throughout the course of the 8-day trip, we surfed our Quiver Killer set up both as a quad and a thruster. Just like the Mini Driver, the quad loosened it up and gave it some extra speed in the small stuff. If works really well with both set ups, so whether you’re a Tri guy or a quad fan, you’re going to like this board. The fins we ended up liking the best on this board were the FCSMayhem L 5-fin set, as well as the FCSPerformer XL thruster, with medium sized FCSPerformer Quad trailers when switching it up to quad set up. These fins were all sized around a larger surfer, so size down for lighter weights.
What you need to upgrade
In Assassin’s Creed Origins, each upgrade requires crafting materials. You can view the requirements (the recipe, if you will) by hovering over the item in your gear menu. You can also pin the requirements so they show up on your HUD to help you keep track of what you have.
There are six materials in Assassin’s Creed Origins: cedarwood, bronze, soft leather, hard leather, pelts and iron. You can see how much you have of each in your inventory.
How to find crafting materials
Finding and collecting crafting materials is something that’s a constant while you play, whether you’re actively seeking them out or not. There are just a lot of places where you’ll find them.
Loot drops. You can find one or two of any of the crafting materials in the random loot drops either from chests or jars that you find around the world or from soldiers. This will give you a constant — but very slow — accumulation of materials.
Dismantling gear. You can dismantle bows, melee weapons and shields from your gear menu. It’ll break down into a few pieces of crafting materials.
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First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Quivers wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Quivers
- №1 — Allen Youth Archery Compact Back Quiver
- №2 — Krayney Back Arrow Quiver Archery Shoulder Hanged Carry Hunting Target Arrow Quiver Bag with 2 Pockets
- №3 — G4Free Archery Deluxe Canvas Back Arrow Quiver Hunting Target Arrow Quiver