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Best Screw Guns 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated March 1, 2018
Best Screw Guns of 2018
Here, I will review 3 of the best screw guns of 2018, and we will also discuss the things to consider when looking to purchase one. I hope you will make an informed decision after going through each of them. So, what exactly would anyone want to know about screw guns? I know most of us don’t really care much about the history and the origin, all we want to know is which of them is the best. Of course, I will spare you the history and go straight on to the best screw guns. I have taken the initiative to educate you on the top three best screw guns that you can buy this year. Welcome to my website! If you plan to buy screw guns and looking for some recommendations, you have come to the right place.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
№1 – DEKO AllinONE AO108 Tool Set 108 pcs Electric Screwdriver 3.6V Cordless Power Screw Guns Rechargeable Lithium-Ion Household Tools Project Kit With Toolbox Storage Case
Why did this screw guns win the first place?
I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
№2 – Tacklife SDP50DC Cordless Rechargeable Screwdriver 3.6-Volt 2000mAh Li-ion MAX Torque 4N.m — LED
Why did this screw guns come in second place?
Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice.
Why did this screw guns take third place?
A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
Screw Guns Buyer’s Guide
What To Go With
A drill is the most used tool in any workshop, job site or house. When buying a drill you need to think about your use of the drill, what will you be using it for?
Most drills are used for just fastening screw or drilling small holes. Unless you will be mixing mud or using big holes saw bits, I would definitely recommend a cordless drill. If you buy a professional cordless drill they will still be able to handle the mixing and the hole saw. You can go with a hammer drill also, but if you will not be going into any concrete, save your money.
How To Budget For Your Cordless Drill
How much money you have budgeted to purchase your cordless drill will be crucial when selecting a model that’s best for you. There are a wide range of prices out there, and generally the higher you go in terms of price, the higher quality the drill will be. But then sometimes you want what will get the job done with little effort and muscle. Many professional contractors or remodelers buy several cordless drills to handle the different types of drilling jobs and projects that may be done. It is not uncommon for them to purchase a cordless screwdriver, impact driver and drill driver for example. What matters is that you choose models that will help you do the jobs at hand with much less difficulty and with greater speed. They do have combination styles that can do several types of job well, but overall, getting or different ones will cover all the bases and have you prepared for anything.
Job Specific Cordless Drills
Different drills are going to be better for specific jobs than others. If you know which ones are suited for certain jobs before you start searching for the drill you want, you won’t end up with something that isn’t powerful enough or that is TOO much power.
Cordless drill/drivers – These are great for household projects and are the most common type of drill for users to buy
Cordless screwdrivers – The cordless screwdriver is great for assembling things and basic household projects. Not recommended for drilling holes or installing lag screws.
Cordless impact drivers – These are the drills that can handle the heavy-duty jobs and are great for professionals.
Cordless Drill Voltage
Volts tell you the power rating of a cordless drill and can range anywhere from to 2volts. The higher the voltage the more powerful the drill is. When a cordless drill has a lot of power, it can overcome the more difficult jobs where there may be some resistance. The downside of these more powerful drills is that they usually weigh a lot more than the less powered variety. If you’re using your cordless drill for jobs around the house or for light remodeling projects, a 14-volt drill will do the job quite nicely. On the other hand, if you need a lot of torque and you’ll be working with masonry or other tough material, you’ll need to get a drill that has more power.
This is an important part of any cordless drill that you would consider purchasing. Purchasing a cordless drill with a comfortable grip is important, especially when you’re working with them for hours at a time. Because of new advanced designs, drill brands are creating ergonomic grips for a better user experience. Many have rubberized grips for even more comfort. If you already know that you suffer from wrist, elbow and shoulder issues, look for a lighter, compact model.
There are the best cordless drills with special grips, a convenient LED light to help guide your work, different speeds and more. You may be a person looking for a simple drill to get those jobs done quickly and efficiently, while others may be looking for some slick side features that make your experience and work a bit easier/hassle free. This can also lead to what makes the cordless drills price what it is. In addition to the standard features listed above, cordless drills can also have some really handy features that make your jobs and projects much easier.
The Right Drill For The Job
Whether you’re hanging a picture on a wall, fixing the wheel on your child’s bike or conquering a weekend DIY project, it always pays to have the right tool for the job.
Below are our suggestions on the type of drill you to look for when doing specific jobs. Keep in mind that each drill has different strengths and weaknesses but knowing these can make your choice much easier.
Light maintenance and repair – This will include such jobs as installing drape brackets, drilling holes for drywall anchors, assembling furniture, grills, exercise equipment, etc, installing new cabinet and drawer handles and knobs, removing or replacing door hinges. All of these types of tasks are relatively quick so you don’t need a cordless drill with two batteries. To cover drilling holes and driving screws, make sure your drill has two fixed speeds and a variable speed option and look for an adjustable clutch as well. A drill such as the Ryobi P20One+ will be great for these types of jobs.
Repair and Remodeling – These are jobs that are a bit more involved such as: building storage racks or storage closet shelving, replacing deck railings and fence pickets, drilling pilot holes, driving screws into plywood or hardwood, hanging drywall and making furniture. The drill you want will have a variable speed, two-speed ranges, a clutch, and T-handle as well. Get another battery as well so you don’t have to start in the middle of a project. The best drill for these tops of jobs would be the Makita LXDT01.
Courtesy of Makita
Whether you are just learning the basics of simple maintenance or are taking on a second addition to the house, a good drill is essential. And if it’s a cordless model, you can drill holes and drive screws with the same tool — and not have to worry about finding an outlet near the work to power the drill. The good news: There are hundreds of these drills on the market. The bad news: It’s not always clear which drills you should be considering.
Courtesy of Sears Craftsman
THE HANDLE on a cordless drill is either a pistol grip or T-handle. The T-handle is most comfortable for general drilling and driving screws.
For cordless drills, power is measured in battery voltage. Higher voltage means more torque-spinning strength to overcome resistance. Over the last decade, top-end voltage has increased from 9.to 18V, but the range of models include 6, 7.2, 9.6, 12, 14.and 18V. Today’s higher-voltage drills have enough power to bore big holes in framing lumber and flooring. That’s impressive muscle. But the trade-off for power is weight. A typical 9.6V drill weighs 1/lbs., while an 18V model weighs up to lbs. Handles Before cordless drill/drivers arrived, most drills had pistol grips, where the handle is behind the motor like the handle of a gun. But most of today’s cordless models are equipped with a T-handle: The handle base flares to prevent hand slippage and accommodate a battery. Because the battery is centered under the weight and bulk of the motor, a T-handle provides better overall balance, particularly in heavier drills. Also, T-handle drills can often get into tighter spaces because your hand is out of the way in the center of the drill. But for heavy-duty drilling and driving large screws, a pistol grip does let you apply pressure higher up — almost directly behind the bit — allowing you to put more force on the work.
An adjustable clutch is what separates electric drills from cordless drill/drivers. Located just behind the chuck, the clutch disengages the drive shaft of the drill, making a clicking sound, when a preset level of resistance is reached. The result is that the motor is still turning, but the screwdriver bit isn’t. Why does a drill need a clutch? It gives you control so you don’t strip a screw or overdrive it once it’s snug. It also helps protect the motor when a lot of resistance is met in driving a screw or tightening a bolt. The number of separate clutch settings varies depending on the drill; better drills have at least 2settings. With that many clutch settings, you can really fine-tune the power a drill delivers. Settings with the lowest numbers are for small screws, higher numbers are for larger screws. Most clutches also have a drill setting, which allows the motor to drive the bit at full power.
The least expensive drills run at a single speed, but most have two fixed speeds: 300 rpm and 800 rpm. A slide switch or trigger lets you select high or low speed. These drills are ideal for most light-duty operations. The low speed is for driving screws, the high speed for drilling holes.
For more refined carpentry and repair tasks, choose a drill that has the same two-speed switch and a trigger with variable speed control that lets you vary the speed from 0 rpm to the top of each range. And if you do more hole drilling than screwdriving, look for more speed — 1,000 rpm or higher — at the top end.
FEATURES YOU’LL NEED
These tasks are quick ones, so a tool with one battery will do. For drilling holes and driving screws, get a drill with two fixed speeds; variable speed is an option. Also, look for an adjustable clutch.
Go with at least a 9.6V tool; you’ll need the extra power. In fact, a 12V drill fits the bill for this job list, but the added power brings extra size and weight.
No question about it — you’re in the big leagues. These projects — especially drilling large-diameter holes and driving long screws — demand a high-voltage tool.
What to Look For in a Cordless Drill
Chuck jaws: Maximum capacity on most drills is 3/inches. Some 14.and 18V drills can handle 1/2-inch-diameter bits.
Clutch: More settings give you greater control of the depth screws are driven.
Speed-range switch: High is for drilling; low is for driving screws. Look for the widest range between them.
Forward/reverse switch: Should be easy to operate with your thumb and trigger finger.
Hand grip: Texture and contour should aid your grip; try out the grip before you buy.
Voltage: More voltage means more power but also added weight.
Battery: Two are better than one. New NiMH batteries offer some advantages.
These are powered by battery, which allows for a great deal of mobility and convenience. One con to this is the fact that batteries do eventually need charging, and cordless impact drivers will at time decrease the amount of power so as to conserve battery life.
The best impact drivers out there will feature an easily connected hex socket so you can spend less time fitting your hexes and more time on the task at hand.
Right angle impact drivers/drills are primarily made to do impact driving in tight spaces.
Makita XDT0418V LXT: Best Value Option (Price vs capabilities)
First up on our list of impact drivers to watch is the Makita XDT0418V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Impact Driver Kit. This extremely popular impact driver is offered up at a tough price to beat. This is the drill to go with if you have a variety of different needs, as the driver has variable speeds that can adapt to just about any job. This is a compact, light impact driver that can be used to fit in even the tightest of crevices.
A hammer drill is the ultimate tool for almost every do-it-yourselfer. This drill is capable of taking on heavier tasks compared to a drill/ driver, the most important difference is that a hammer drill is capable of drilling in harder rock types like bricks. Just like drill/ drivers, hammer drills can be corded and cordless, although a large part of hammer drills is still corded, the last couple of years cordless is gaining in popularity because of the heavier batteries and improvement of battery life. A hammer drill is ideal for you to use for the following activities:
A rotary drill is used for really rough stuff and heavy drilling jobs. This type of drill is extremely suitable if you are looking to drill in materials that are extremely hard, a good example of this is concrete. Besides concrete drilling some rotary drills also consist of a chiseling mode. You can use the a rotary drill for the tasks below, though it is not recommended to use this tool for the lighter drilling jobs like screw driving and wood drilling, this because of its large size and heavy weight compared to for example a drill/ driver and hammer drill.
Right Angle Drill
The angle drill makes it easy to drill in hard to reach places. You don’t have to squeeze yourself into impossible positions to drill those hard to reach places in odd corners. The machine can be tilted and bended over backwards to always be right in front of your drill or driving job. With a right angle drill it is no longer difficult to exactly drill or drive into a 90-degree angle. The compact solution of this type of drill is very convenient for the professionals or intensive do-it-yourselfers. Most right angle drills are on cordless tools, although there are also a few with that are corded.
When choosing a drill, one of the most important decisions you have to make is which power source is most suitable for you. The options available, are corded en cordless, both of these options have advantages and disadvantages. Most screw guns, drill/ drivers and impact drivers are cordless. Hammer drills and right angle drills are widely available in both corded and cordless models. Most rotary drills and drywall/ deck drivers are only available with a cord. The last couple of year’s cordless drills have gained significant market share due to improvement in both strength and durability of the batteries.
In general, a corded drill has more strength and endurance compared to a cordless drill. This is also the biggest advantage of this type of power source; you are able to take on much heavier tasks for indefinite amount of time. A disadvantage of a corded drill is that you always have to be near a power outlet.
The most used power indicator for corded drills is amperage (amp). A drills amp rating indicates the electrical current load a motor can carry for an indefinite period of time. Other indicators are input voltage and wattage. A drills amps multiplied by the input voltage is the number of wattage a drill has. Because almost all drills in the United States have a voltage input of 120 volts, it’s safe to say that amps are the only variable indicator in measuring a drill’s power. In other words the higher the amps of a corded drill, the higher the wattage of a drill. Most drills have amperage of between the and amps, which means they have wattage of between 600 and 1200 watts.
With regular use, it’s advisable to choose a model with a comfortable grip or soft grip. For each brand, this is called differently, but ultimately serves the same purpose, to prolonge use of the machine without you be physical bothered by this.
Besides comfortable/ soft grip work lights also ensures comfortable operation. This recent development ensures that you always have a clear view of your work, usually through an integrated LED light on the machine.
Corded vs Cordless Drill Option
Personally I use both a corded and cordless one, and it just depends exactly what you are looking for from your drill. The benefit of a corded drill is that once plugged into a socket, you have a never ending power supply. In other words the battery will not run out, and you do not need to worry about charging it.
The chuck basically is what holds the drill bit. You want this to be very strong as otherwise drill bits slip and that is just a pain in the ass. Some chucks need a chuck key to tighten and loosen the drill bit.
Others have what is called a keyless chuck, which means there is no need for a chuck key, as you just tighten using your hand. These are of course much more convenient. That means you never have to worry about losing a chuck key which is great. If you have ever lost a chuck key, you will know what I mean. It is also so much quicker to change bits.
For tougher drilling I would always use a chuck with a key that you tighten by hand as it is less likely to slip. If you drill a lot of metal then a chuck with a key is also the better choice.
Chucks come in different sizes and the size of the chuck will determine the size of drill bit or drill attachment that you can use. The most popular is a /8″ chuck and you can also get 1/4″ and 1/2″ chucks. For most users the 3/8″ chuck will cater for almost every job and is the one that I would recommend.
So to summarise for most people a 3/8″ keyless chuck is the one to go for for general work.
Motor Power Explained
The bigger and more powerful the motor you have the better. Again for general purposes most drills will have sufficient power for doing jobs around the home. However if you like to have that extra thrust at your finger tips then the bigger the better. It is similar to family car versus a sport’s car.
These drill motors are measured in amps. There is quite a variation in these but the general range is 5-amps. This simply will improve both the speed and the overall performance of your drill.
Motors that use a higher current will also last longer as there is little danger of the motor burning out, or the brushes starting to wear. As a general rule of thumb the more power that you have the better.
Corded Drill Speed
Depending on what you are drilling, you should ideally drill at different speeds. Drilling through metal typically needs a higher speed than when drilling through wood. This can get really technical and could bore you silly. How hard you push the drill, the type of material you are drilling and the type of bit you are using all impact which speed you should drill at.
So to keep this simple most home owners will need a drill that can operate at 700-1,000 rpm. The only time you ever really need to change this is if you are drilling through very specialised materials. So although you do need some element of speed variation you do not need to have a wide variation.
User Comfort & Ergonomics
The things that I look for are does it come with a side handle, as that can be really useful for some drilling? I also want the option of being able to keep drilling without always having to hold the trigger down.
If it has those then I am pretty content and I tend to then ignore all the sale’s waffle and blurbs. So in simple terms a side handle and a lock button for the trigger are really useful features to have.
How to Use a Power Drill
The main thing you need to know about a power drill is that you can swap out the bits (head ends). Most modern power drills tighten by leverage. Here’s how it works:
The power drill has two other important components. There’s a button, near the trigger, that tells the drill whether to go forward (clockwise) or backward. There’s also (in most drills) a torque setting. When torque is set to its lowest (loosest) setting, it will tighten the screw until it feels a little tension, then start clicking rapidly. When torque is on its highest setting, it will keep tightening the screw until it cams out (see the screwdriver article, if you forgot what this means) or until something bad happens (strips the screw, pokes your eye out, etc.). Usually, you should start with a low to medium torque setting. Then, if you need more, adjust accordingly. → Pi:The most disturbing use of a power drill was in Darren Aronofsky’s psychological thriller Pi. Yes, he’s the guy who did Black Swan. Anyway, if you haven’t seen Pi, I won’t spoil it, but it’s a very disturbing use of a power drill.
There are different types of drill bits for different types of material. The most common are general-purpose, with a simple head, and can be used for most around-the-house projects. Others include spade or flat bits (for construction framing bolt-holes in wood), masonry (for concrete), brad point bits (for word or dowel work), and bits with a diamond carbide tip (for drilling into porcelain or other tough surfaces).
If drilling a large hole — especially in metal, or with a precise center point — you may first need to make a smaller “pilot hole” to help guide the drill and protect the material from cracking. Some bits do this for you, but these are specialized tools, and you could probably live a full and happy life without ever seeing one.
A: Personally, I don’t think that most of us shoot well enough to get any real benefit from choke. Consequently, I would always go for fixed chokes and ones that were very open. However, if you become a very good shot, then screw-in chokes may help.
The first wave of screw-in chokes appeared in the late 1970s with the Winchester 10series of guns. Since then, multi-chokes have been very popular, both as factory standard and as custom attachments from specialist makers.
Multi-chokes offer tremendous versatility without the need to own a number of shotguns, but they need to be looked after if they are to remain trouble-free. Always pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions for the maintenance of multi- chokes. Multi-chokes sit in a section of the muzzle that has been specially machined to receive them. It is vitally important to ensure that they are screwed fully home so that there is no gap between the inside of the barrel and the base of the choke section. If even the tiniest gap exists, there is a very real possibility that serious damage will occur to the gun.
Research undertaken by BASC at the Royal Military College of Science, Shrivenham has shown that even if a choke tube is not fully home by the slightest margin, as little as a single turn, then damage can occur. This is known as “choke pick-up”. As the first pellets of the shot charge hit the gap, some are forced between the choke tube and the barrel wall, causing distortion and increasing the obstruction. As more pellets hit, the choke distorts further and is eventually blown out of the barrel, damaging the muzzles. It is also a hazard to others as it leaves the barrel.
Improvements in motor technology and fabrication means that many top-rated cordless impact drivers are lighter, more compact and more comfortable to use. Features such as pistol grips with rubberized padding help reduce user fatigue. Compact design also helps with weight balancing, which makes using a cordless impact driver even more ergo-friendly.
More power goes to the bit itself at the front of the drill, therefore, most of the shock is pulled away from the operator. This makes repeated drives, say for framing jobs, less stressful physically. Not only can it help finish these types of jobs quickly, but the best cordless impact drivers increase accuracy with repeatable tasks by decreasing user fatigue with their superior drive power.
If you often work in close quarters, ensure that your driver is compatible with a right angle attachment. These have become a standard feature of any tool kit as they can instantly turn your cordless driver into a one-handed tool. This type of flexibility is indispensable for framers and carpenters who constantly need to reach tight corners and hard-to-reach spots.
LED Lights and Indicators
LED features are increasingly popular on top-rated cordless impact drivers. Some drivers include LED-powered meters that indicate battery life. LED worklightslights are now commonplace on most drills, giving you additional high-frequency illumination that produces less of a draw on the batteries than standard bulbs.
New lithium-ion batteries have revolutionized cordless tool design. Not only do they hold a charge longer, they also charge up much more quickly than nickel batteries. They deliver much more power while weighing far less, making it possible for a driver to be lighter and much easier to operate than a standard cordless drill. Most lithium-ion batteries can hold a charge for up to four times longer than standard batteries.
Because of the increased efficiency and lighter weights of these newer batteries, powerful drivers come in smaller sizes than standard drills of equal power. Cordless impact drivers can help work in tight quarters, such as when working on ceilings or in high corners. Motors that pack a bigger punch may not mean a much bigger drill. Impact drills that weigh three pounds or less can still deliver 1,500 inch-pounds of torque and can still be easily operated with one hand.
How to Use
With a drywall screw gun, it is easier to fit and to install drywall to your home interior. Drywall is among the last things one will do to his/her home and it is also very rewarding. Using a drywall screw gun you fasten the process of both fitting and installing the boards of drywall.
It is very easy to use, and it will, in fact, work in the same way as an ordinary screwgun. With its automatic models, it will also be much easier to fix the drywall as you will not even need to care about having to carry screws with you.
You should choose one with high quality. It will much simpler and more convenient for you if you get a cordless one. They work with a battery which needs charging. However, when the battery is already charged you can carry them with you to any place. There’s no need worrying about wires getting tangled. You can also use a cordless gun very quickly, and you can keep it in your tool belt for more convenience.
How They Work
As each screw is set to the proper depth adjustment, the screws pull the panel tightly against the framing, and pressure from the nosepiece in its turn pushes against the drywall. Then the head of the screw spins against the paper when it sinks, resulting in a slight dimple, as well as a smooth, clean edge around the head. As the screw reaches a particular depth, the clutch disengages.
For using a screwgun properly, you simply hold the tool firmly and drive each screw. In that way, you absorb pressure with your hand and forearm. Your wrist needs to align with the nosepiece, while your thumb, index finger, and middle finger ride along both sides of the motor housing.
You need to pull the trigger and then push the tool forward. That will engage the clutch, start the screw rotating, will sink it, and will disengage the clutch in a second. In case you do not maintain the pressure on the tool when the clutch is engaged, the screw will not set properly.
Next, you are to load it up with screws. The automatic screwguns are the best as they store all the screws you need. The manual load guns work the same way as manual screwdrivers. Automatic models cost more, but they are much more useful and convenient. With an automatic screwgun, there is no need fixing each screw separately.
Automatic models work with special drywall screws which you can get on coils. These screws will be loaded into the gun making it easier to drill and fix drywall.
After using 1drills to drive 1,663-inch screws and bore 341-inch holes, we’re convinced that the best one for around the house is the Bosch PS31-2A 12-Volt Max Drill/Driver.
The Bosch DDS183-018-Volt Brushless Compact Drill/Driver Kit replaces our previous upgrade pick, the Bosch DDS181-018-Volt Compact Drill/Driver Kit, which now has limited availability. Our new pick has a better motor, a nicer handle, and the option for onboard bit storage. We’ve eliminated our also-great pick, the Porter-Cable PCCK600LB 20-Volt 1/2-Inch Lithium-ion Drill/Driver Kit, and moved it to the Competition section, as our current recommendations outmatch its overall performance.
For faster work on tougher jobs
This Bosch had the best combination of power, battery life, features, and price, and it handled demanding work better than 12-volt drills.
If you need a tool that can reliably drill large holes and sink long screws, we recommend stepping up to the Bosch DDS183-018-Volt Brushless Compact Drill/Driver Kit. This model replaces our previous upgrade pick, the Bosch DDS181-018-Volt Compact Drill/Driver Kit, which now has limited availability. This design is a larger 18-volt drill, and of the we tested, the Bosch DDS181-0(our previous upgrade pick) was the only one that placed at or near the top in both our drilling and driving tests, making it the best all-around choice. It particularly excelled in the drilling test, boring 3percent more holes than the second-place 18-volt drill. The newer Bosch DDS183-02, our current upgrade pick, offers similar specs but has a more efficient brushless motor and a better handle. Compared with the smaller, 12-volt Bosch (our main recommendation), this larger drill completes tougher jobs much faster, doing the same work in less than half the time, with a battery that lasts longer as well. For around-the-house tasks, that added speed and power are unnecessary, but for more production-oriented work, like putting down decking, they make a noticeable difference.
We’ve also spent hours testing drill bit sets. See our complete guide for our recommendations.
Who should get this
The 12-volt pick is a kitchen-drawer drill. It’s good for a lot of things around the house—putting up hooks, installing baby gates, swapping out light fixtures, minor drywall repairs and maybe straightening a saggy gutter. It’s a drill for a homeowner who wants to zip through IKEA furniture builds, help a kid make a nice science-fair project, and build a bookshelf. It’s not the perfect tool for constant heavy-duty use, but it can certainly replace a few rotted deck boards or help with the framing needed to install a new window. The size works well if you’re storing it indoors, and the battery lasts long enough that you can usually pick it up and use it after a few weeks without needing a recharge.
If you’re a rabid DIYer with plans to build a deck, a doghouse, and a tree house, we recommend the stronger 18-volt drill. This one offers longer battery life and more power. It’s designed for constant heavy-duty use and is something that would be seen hanging off a pro carpenter’s tool belt. It can handle all but the most aggressive jobs (like mixing mortar with a paddle or repetitive drilling into concrete). It’s a bit bigger and better-suited for storage in a garage or shed, and some folks might find its size and weight a little harder to manage than a smaller, 12-volt tool. On average, 12-volt drills are to inches in length and weigh less than 2½ pounds; 18-volts average a length of to inches and weigh around 3½ pounds (and have much bulkier batteries).
How we picked
The voltage of a drill is generally what determines its overall capabilities; drills can range from tiny 4-volt screwdrivers all the way up to the concrete-crushing 36-volt tools. The two most popular (and useful) voltages are the 12-volts and the 18-volts. The bigger 18-volts have long been the standard, but in the past years or so, 12-volts have become impressive in their power and run time as lithium-ion batteries have evolved and replaced nickel batteries as the default technology.
Even though the 12-volts are on the lower side of the voltage scale, tests at both This Old House and Popular Mechanics have shown that they’re more than adequate for around-the-house work.
Drills also come with any number of convenience features, all of which are nice, none of which are essential. At this point, every quality drill (including all of the ones we tested) comes with an LED that shines at the front of the drill. But other optional features include a battery indicator light, a belt hook, and onboard bit storage. Though we’d never choose a drill based strictly on these features, these smaller touches are nice when they’re present.
We also did not test a few notable 12-volts. At the time of our test, both the DeWalt 12-Volt Max Cordless Drill/Driver Kit and the Makita FD02W 12V Max Drill/Driver Kit were priced well above our test candidates. As time has gone by, prices have shifted, and cheaper models have been discontinued. These are now much more competitive with our picks, and we will be considering them for a future round of testing.
How we tested
We spent two days testing 1drills by driving screws and drilling holes on a pile of lumber in rural New Hampshire. For the driving test, I saw how many 3-inch drywall screws each drill could sink into a doubled-up 2-by-piece of Douglas fir (a total of inches of wood) on a fully charged battery. This simulated the process of framing, as if someone were building a tree house or a partition wall. I rested the drills after every 1screws to prevent overheating.
Flaws but not dealbreakers
The position of the PS31-2A’s LED is less than ideal. It’s located just above the trigger so it shines parallel to the front of the tool, casting a large shadow above the driver tip or drill bit. This gets a little annoying, but the simple fact is that this is the design found on the majority of the 12-volts. Of the ones we tested, only the Black+Decker BDCDD12C has the LED positioned at the base of the handle, which lights upward at the tip and casts less of a shadow—an arrangement we think works a little better.
The Bosch PS31-2A is also missing a couple of the convenience features that are found on some of the other drills. It doesn’t have a spot for onboard bit storage, but more important, it doesn’t have a belt hook. My experience is that the belt hooks are very useful, particularly for such a small grab-and-go tool. Without it, I’m constantly setting the tool down, sometimes on a nice, finished surface, which can cause damage. To deal with this, the body of the PS31-2A has strategically placed pieces of rubber overmold along the sides. These pad the tool and hold the hard plastic off of the surface it’s placed on. It’s also worth noting that the PS3is small enough to be wedged into a loose pocket (or tucked into your waistband like a Hollywood gunslinger). Obviously, this shouldn’t be done while it’s holding a drill bit, but with a driver tip it can be a solution.
The Milwaukee 2407-2is a powerful drill—it’s just larger than the Bosch and has a shorter run time.
If the PS31-2A isn’t available or if its price has fluctuated out of your budget, our second choice is the Milwaukee 2407-2M1⅜ Drill/Driver Kit. It has similar power and feels solid in the hands, but it’s a heavier drill and doesn’t have the overwhelming run time of the Bosch. This replaces our previous runner-up, a Porter-Cable 12-Volt, which was discontinued in 2016.
For the specifics of our test, the Milwaukee 12-volt drove 90 screws and drilled 1holes. The screw number was second only to the Bosch (but a solid 4screws shy), and the drilling number also put it in a second place, but 1holes less than the Bosch. For power, the Milwaukee showed similar abilities as the Bosch, working through holes and screws with efficiency, and only really struggling during the last gasps of the battery’s life. Milwaukee, like Bosch, makes contractor-grade tools, so it wasn’t a surprise to see this kind of power from the drill.
Compared with the others, the Milwaukee has some heft to it. It weighs in at pounds, ounces, making it the heaviest 12-volt we tested, and a full half pound heavier than the Bosch. For length, the Milwaukee is just under 7½ inches compared with the Bosch’s 6¾ inches. This isn’t to say that using the Milwaukee is like lugging around a cinder block, but the Bosch is better in tight spots or for an extended project at head height or above.
The Milwaukee is the only 12-volt that comes with a belt hook, a feature we liked a lot. It allowed us to hang the tool off a pants pocket when both hands were needed elsewhere (like positioning a board or marking for a mudroom hook). This is by no means an essential feature, but it’s certainly nice to have.
The drill also has the same LED setup as the Bosch PS31-2A, which casts a large shadow above the tool. Like we said above, this is the norm with 12-volt drills.
The Milwaukee has been well-received among those who have purchased it. Wirecutter editor Harry Sawyers has owned a Milwaukee 12-volt for years (as well as the Bosch), and he said he would get whichever of the two he could find at a better price. “With either, you won’t be disappointed,” he said.
The 12-volt competition
The Hitachi DS10DFL wasn’t as good in our tests as the Milwaukee and it’s very light on features. It doesn’t have a belt hook, battery gauge, or onboard bit storage. Hitachi uses a stem-style battery, rather than the canister style, so it has a very comfortable handle, but that alone isn’t a reason to choose it over the more powerful Bosch or Milwaukee.
The Black+Decker BDCDD12C is the other 12-volt that comes with only a single battery. Its performance was similar to the Hitachi and due to the battery design, it also has the fully tapered handle. It’s the only tested 12-volt that has the LED down at the base of the handle, which sheds better light and casts fewer shadows. On the downside, the Black+Decker doesn’t have a belt hook, onboard bit storage, or a battery gauge. It also has only one speed, which is just a little faster than the low speeds of the other drills. In practical terms, this means that it’s not a quick drill to work with, especially with smaller screws that are normally driven at high speed.
The 18-volt competition
Among 18-volt drills, in addition to the one we’re recommending, we tested nine others.
Our former runner-up 18-volt tool is the Porter-Cable PCCK600LB 20-Volt Drill/Driver Kit. Among the drills, the Porter-Cable stood out as a solid, feature-heavy tool that was consistently priced lower than most. It sank 13screws and drilled 30 holes in our tests, which was not the leading result but was solid performance for the price. We’ve moved it here to the Competition section for our 201update because the new brushless Bosch upgrade pick offered clearly superior performance, and we felt we could make the buying decision easier on you by advising that you either stick with our 12-volt pick, which is the best for most people, or step up to the new Bosch for an upgrade in capability that’s more significant than what you’d get with this Porter-Cable drill.
The Craftsman C17560X (since discontinued), the Milwaukee 2606-22CT, and the DeWalt DCD780Call produced similar results in our testing, each driving 70 to 90 screws and drilling 20 to 2holes (remember, the 18-volt Bosch DDS18drove 15screws and drilled 4holes). These three drills each had one additional feature, whether it be a belt hook (DeWalt), a battery gauge (Milwaukee), or onboard bit storage (Craftsman), but none had more than that. The DeWalt and Milwaukee models were on the higher end of the pricing scale at the time of our tests, and they were more powerful than the Craftsman.
The Makita XFDdid a little better by driving 100 screws and drilling 2holes. We liked the nicely contoured handle, but the Bosch simply outdistanced it in performance. We also had an inconsistent showing from the batteries, with one of them able to drill only nine holes (we ran the test four times with the battery).
The now discontinued Ridgid R86008Kcame in just behind the Bosch 18-volt in both tests. It drilled 3holes and drove 140 screws. It was the only drill we looked at that comes with a secondary handle to give added control in high-torque scenarios. The downside is that at nearly pounds, it’s a big, heavy drill (the heaviest we tested). This drill has been replaced by the Ridgid R86009K, which looks to be nearly identical.
Though the Hitachi DS18DSAL weighs the same as the 18-volt Bosch (pounds, ounces), it doesn’t come close to matching the Bosch’s power or endurance; in our tests, it drove 9screws and drilled 2holes. The Hitachi also lacks bit storage and a battery gauge. It’s sold only in a kit with a cordless work light, but the light has an incandescent bulb and isn’t very bright.
The Black+Decker BDCDE120C 20-Volt with AutoSense was a champ at driving screws, gaining the top spot in that test. It didn’t do as well in the drilling test, managing only 2holes, which put it in the middle of the pack. It was by far the smallest 18-volt we tested and its size makes it look more like a 12-volt. It also has only a ⅜-inch chuck (the rest of the 18s have ½-inch chucks), which limits it with larger bits. In addition, it’s a single-speed tool; all of the others have two speeds.
Roy Berendsohn, 12-Volt Cordless Drills: We Test 1of the Best, Popular Mechanics, December 2, 2011
Sal Vaglica, Tool Test: 12-Volt Drill/Drivers, This Old House
Harry Sawyers, The Best Kitchen Drawer Drill, Gizmodo, August 15, 2012
Michael Springer, Tool Test: Subcompact Drill/Drivers and Impact Drivers, Tools of the Trade, August 8, 2011
There are three types of tools that are typically used to drive screws to attach metal roofing or sidewall panels on structures. All three types of tools are comparable in price but only one is industry-preferred to use. Leland Industries provides this look at the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Specialty Screw guns: The industry-preferred tool for installing metal panel. These are conventional 110-volt corded tools usually requiring extension cords to reach from the power source to the work site. They typically feature a torque-controlled, depth-setting feature or a simple nosepiece designed to release the screw as it seats itself to a predetermined depth (in essence, flush with the panel), with no overdrive to dimple the panel, and to eliminate screws not seating flush with the panel. They are designed to drive small diameter screws into steel or wood structures (Note: Post frame screws are usually driven with a tool operating between 1,200 and 1,800 RPM). This is the original screwdriver design for driving light-duty fasteners. Introduced in about 1964, it is still the preferred tool by many. Advantage: once the depth has been set, anyone can operate the tool and obtain perfectly seated fasteners each time. Disadvantage: extension cords are often required.
Cordless Drill Drivers/Battery Powered Drills: the user can insert a drive socket into the chuck used to hold the drill bit and then employ the tool to drive small diameter screws. Advantage: Portability, no power cord, no need to be near a power source. Disadvantage: The operator has to release the trigger switch at just the right time to prevent over-driving and damaging the panels or, under-driving and having to go back to fully seat the fastener flush to the work surface. Skilled operators claim to be able to seat the fastener correctly every time with no depth-setting device, but with no depth-setting device, in the hands of a new employee, this can cause damage to the panels. Painted panels may be scratched and dented or screws may be left standing proud of the panel surface.
Impact Drivers: The most recent development in tools to drive small diameter fasteners. They were originally designed for use with hex head fasteners or to facilitate driving steel nuts onto machine screws using a hit and turn motion. With each revolution the driver bit pulses or is shocked (hit) many times as the tool turns at speeds that may be higher than the 1,200-1,800 RPM recommended for driving post-frame wood screws (metal panel to wood structure). Advantages: Impact drivers are high torque, high-speed tools. This type of tool is commonly used by mechanics when loosening or installing small fasteners like lug nuts. Multiple impacts and high torque for removing small diameter parts that may have been in rusted place for years is also very useful. Disadvantages: Use of these tools, especially in inexperienced hands can cause damaged panels, broken screws, and paint or powder coating can be scratched or marred during installation.
What’s it for
A corded power drill is used for drilling holes in metal, plastics, wood, brick, stone, concrete, glass, and tiles. Various types and lengths of drill bits are available depending on the material being drilled; HSS (High Speed Steel) bits for metal, flat bits for wood, and masonry bits for concrete.
How it works
The bit is held in a clamping device on the end of the drill shaft called a chuck. Some drills come with chucks which are keyless and can be hand-tightened, others are fitted with chucks which need to be tightened with a chuck key. This allows the drill bit to be tightened more securely and large bits are less likely to slip, but keyless hand-tightening chucks are more convenient. Most DIY model drills will have a 1/inch (13mm) chuck which can accommodate drills up to this diameter, but 5/inch (16mm) chucks are also available. These drills range in power from about 500 to 800 watt. 650 to 700 watt provides adequate power for most jobs.
If you need to drill holes in awkward spots, you can get a right angled chuck adapter which fits into the chuck of the drill. Alternatively flexible drives are available.
Things to consider
Drills may have a fixed speed setting, speed settings, or variable speed depending on how hard you squeeze the trigger. Variable speed is most convenient as it allows a drill hole to be started easier without the bit moving all over the place. Also lower speeds should be used with larger diameter bits to avoid overheating the bit due to friction.
For more detailed information on drill bits and drilling, see my other guide here:
Choosing the Right Drill Bit for Metal, Wood, Tiles, Glass, or Masonry
What it’s for
Jigsaws can be used to cut wood, metal, plastic, and other materials. Different types of blades are available to suit the material being cut. Since the blades used in a jigsaw are slim and narrow, this allows curved profiles such as circles to be cut in sheet material. Jigsaws are normally used for cutting timber up to about 40 mm thick (approx. 1/inch). Long blades can be used in a jigsaw and manufacturers quote maximum cutting capacity up to inches (this seems a bit overly optimistic!).
A multi tool or oscillating tool is a relatively recent power tool. The motor drives a head which oscillates or twists backwards and forwards through an angle of a couple of degrees (similar to the head on a hair clippers, but rotating). Several types of accessory can be attached and driven by the head. These include:
A multi-tool is useful for applications where a jigsaw, handsaw or reciprocating saw can’t be used. The latter have blades which move relatively slowly over a large distance, so the blade can end up hitting stuff if there isn’t clearance. A multi-tool on the other hand has a head which moves very rapidly (typically 10,000 oscillations per second) over a small angle. So the accessory has a small range of movement perpendicular to, rather than towards the workpiece. A typical application of a multi-tool is to trim the underside of a door jamb so that tiles or flooring can be slid underneath. The tool can trim, but can also be used for plunge cutting, e.g. to cut out holes in plasterboard (hardwall) for fitting socket outlets.
All of the tools described above are available in cordless versions. Cordless tools have obvious advantages:
Cordless tools are available in 12, 18, 2and 3volt versions. If you buy a cordless tool, get one with two batteries so that you can have one battery on charge while using the other. Batteries are quite expensive when bought separately at a later stage.
The capacity of a cordless drill battery is measured in amp-hours or AH. Higher amp-hour capacity batteries will give longer use between charges. Most cordless tools now use lithium ion rechargeable batteries and this technology doesn’t suffer from the memory effect associated with older technology NiCd batteries. Also lithium batteries have a higher energy storage density than NiCd or NiMh. This results in a lighter battery for a given capacity. Another advantage of lithium batteries is that they hold their charge much longer, so a tool is always ready for use.
The latest trend in cordless tools is the use of brushless motors. The absence of brushes reduces friction, prolonging usage time when the battery is charged. Power output is also supposedly increased. Brushless tools are more expensive, so you may get a better deal on a cordless drill with brushes, which have somewhat dropped in price.
If you decide to buy a range of tools from the same manufacturer, a cheaper option is to buy the tools raw, i.e. without batteries. Then you can just buy a battery (and a spare if you want) and share it between tools as needed.
Air Tools and Compressors
An alternative to cordless/battery or corded/mains powered tools are air powered tools.The three main advantages of air or pneumatic tools are that they can be stalled without burning out, there’s no danger of electric shock and many of them are slimmer and can be used in tight spaces.
Investing In a Paintball Gun
Obtaining the best paintball marker that fits your skill level will require you to do your research thoroughly and understand what the paintball concept is all about. Furthermore, learning the best highlights of a marker is going to take some commitment and will require you to play paintball on a regular basis.
As I have mentioned above several times, each player is different and we all need to pay close attention to our preferred gameplay style. Therefore, depending on the level of your skill, there are different kinds of equipment that you need on the fields. It’s not just about buying the biggest and most expensive paintball gun, you need other accessories like masks, hoppers, air tanks, cloths, maintenance kit etc. and all these items are readily available online. It all depends on how long you plan on playing, and the amount of pressure that you will withstand on the fields while playing.
If you want to last hours playing, you need to be prepared with tool-kit such as screwdrivers and Allen wrenches even though you are playing with the top-rated gun. To enhance your playing experience, you should invest in a mask and vest just to spice up the game.
As for the markers, there are custom markers available for you to upgrade as you develop your skills and build up confidence while playing. You will need extra tools to upgrade to custom markers. It is extremely popular among beginners to invest in a customizable gun and then purchase modification kits to be able to use their marker for several years, while having the ability to modify and upgrade the gun.
It goes without saying that woodsball is basically paintball that takes place in the woods! Or, any other place but an organized speed-ball field. Of course there are limits and the fields are usually large acres and the covers are trees, rocks and other things you will find in nature or the covers are made of sticks, dirt or plywood. Due to the nature of woodsball play, it is generally played asymmetrical, it usually requires help of your whole team to get around the playfield. If you are wondering what kind of paintball gun you will need for woodsball, you will be pleasantly surprised by how simple they are. Also, they are big and mechanical and come with great accuracy and efficiency to play for long time. They work great for long distance shooting and they basically are suited for any conditions.
This type of game is extremely fast paced and will usually last around 3-minutes. Although it only lasts few minutes, it does not mean that nothing happens! When you are playing speedball games, you will have to move very quickly in order to get the perfect angle on your fellow opponents that are covering them self behind specially designed bunkers. During speedball play, thousands of paint balls are shot between players during gameplay and you can expect to witness more than rounds played in just under minutes of play.
If you plan on playing Speedball, you must have a gun that will respond quickly. There are many awesome speedball guns available and when you head out there to search for your perfect speedball gun, you should seriously consider a gun that is designed to be used in speedball environment. Always make sure the gun you are investigating will fit your preferred playing style and needs.
There is a chance that you will most likely purchase and store cases of painting between game-plays. That is to say, if you are not required to use the paint that is sold in the field. Paint comes in all kinds of quality and it goes without saying that the quality of the paint will influence your accuracy. Therefore, you need to invest in decent quality made ammo for your paintball gun. Even though you invest in the most expensive and top-rated paintball gun, it doesn’t mean that it will improve your game or accuracy if you fill it with crappy paintballs. In other words, the model will not give you any indication about the performance of the paintballs. Having said that, if you invested in top-quality paint, you need to protect them and make sure you store them properly to prevent them from any damage.
Store your gun, accessories and ammo in dry and cool place. In the event you’re keeping your stuff dissembled in various parts, you have to be certain to change position of the paintballs in order to prevent breakage or dimpling. Old or dimpled paintballs are could break and leak, or create unnatural spin and even leak into the barrel causing even more internal damage.
If you custom order your paintball instead of buying them from your local store, it may minimize incorrectly stored ammunition. To avoid buying damaged goods when you are in a store, always open the container to check the accessories that you are buying. If the paintballs are looking spherical, you will be able to fire them accurately.
Owning and operating the most accurate paintball gun is not about owning a specific brand or model. Favoring one brand over another will not determine your accuracy and the fact is that model or a brand tend to play extremely small role in the buying process. On the other hand, it’s all about proper maintenances, not only of your gun but also the ammunition and accessories. Also, if you practice regularly with your gun, you will notice significant improvement on both performance and accuracy as well. Have in mind that even a less expensive brand could easily out-perform high-end paintball gun is not maintained frequently. As stated above, maintenances and consistency are key factors that will lead to much better accuracy/precision while you play.
It is a challenge for beginners to take their first-step in the world of paintball. It can be a daunting task to research and find the most accurate paintball gun that fits his/her playing style. The reality is that the key factors to consider when choosing the most accurate paintball gun can basically drown a newcomer. Below you will find some very useful information to consider when you search for the perfect paintball gun. The pointers below will also come in handy if you already have a paintball and you are looking into making it a lot more accurate than it is. Have in mind that in order to upgrade or modify your current paintball gun, you have to own a unit that can be customized and upgradeable.
Choose the Most Accurate Paintball Gun
All right, now that we have analyzed the best position that will help you to improve your accuracy, it’s time to research the most accurate gun that will fit your playing style and skill. So, knowing what to look for is essential. Therefore, you have to make sure that you pick the paintball gun that includes the best features and uses top-rated innovations in the product design. There is also the option to invest in a customizable unit and if you do so, make sure that it is accurate enough to match your playing style.
Like I did mention many times here above, there are so many factors that affect accuracy. Yet another key factor is the barrel that you have with your gun. You have the option to upgrade your current barrel by buying a stand-alone barrel and customize it to fit your current marker. Pre-installed barrels might spread out way too much air than necessary and that will hinder the accuracy. Moreover, you need to pay close attention to the size of the barrel you want to buy because the length of a barrel can also affect accuracy. It is a common belief among game-players that if you have long barrel then your shot is more accurate. However, this is not the case because of the simple fact that the most accurate paintball units include small barrels. So, if you invest in a new barrel, make sure it is built for precision.
Get a High-Flow Regulator
Investing in a high-flow regulator will do magic for you. It will basically turn your ordinary unit into a super unit. It will greatly enhance the performance of your device as well as improve the accuracy significantly. If any of your team-mates or opponents claim they own the most accurate paintball gun, it is most likely because of a high-flog regulator.
One of the crucial factors that will determine the life-span of your paintball gun is maintenance. You have to maintain your marker regularly in order for it to work properly. Maybe you notice that the accuracy of your gun has changed in a short time, it might be because the marker is not lubricated enough. Every single part of your gun needs to oiled-up properly even though you have bought the most expensive and the best tournament marker available in the market. If you don’t maintain your unit, you will most definitely face serious issues and it will affect your playing experience.
There’s nothing that makes shooting a rifle easier than the addition of an optic. Instead of forcing your eye to align three objects (the rear sight, the front sight and the target) and focus on one of them (the front sight), the scope puts all three objects on the same visual plane.
The use of a good optic increases our capability with a rifle, but only if it is mounted correctly. The market is loaded with scope mounting options which can seem overwhelming. In an effort to simplify this process, we will look at one of the most proven optic mounts in the industry and walk through the process of mounting a scope correctly and securely.
The optic mount can be the weakest link in the accuracy chain of a rifle. We must follow a series of steps to ensure that the scope will maintain its position under the recoil of the rifle along with the normal bumps and knocks that a rifle will encounter during its life. Improper scope mounting is probably the most common contributor to poor rifle performance. Do it right the first time, and save yourself some serious headaches down the road.
The rifle we will be working with is a Savage Model 1bolt-action, but these principles apply to virtually any rifle (or even shotgun) that you’ll encounter.
The first step is to acquire the correct components for the job, starting with the right optic mounts and rings. This chart will help you select the correct mounting solution for your firearm. We have chosen Weaver two-piece bases and rings for this project, both of which are proven designs that have been around for decades.
Be sure to order optic mounts that are compatible with the specific model of firearm that you are using and the correct height rings for your scope. We want to install the optic as low as possible without it touching the rifle anywhere but at the mounts for a variety of reasons. This chart is a helpful tool in choosing the correct rings.
There are a variety of tools necessary to mount a scope, and the key to doing a good job is to always use the right tool. The Weaver Deluxe Scope Mounting Kit has literally everything that you need to mount a scope properly. The only other thing that we will need is something to hold the rifle securely while we work. A gun cradle is great, but a padded bench vise will do the job if that’s all that you have available. Once we have confirmed that the rifle is unloaded (removing the bolt is a good way to confirm that the firearm is in a safe condition) and it is mounted in the cradle or vise, we can begin our project.
Using a degreasing agent, such as mineral spirits, acetone, or even carburetor cleaner, we need to remove all traces of oil and grease from the mounting components including the rings, bases, and screws as well as the threaded mounting holes in the firearm’s receiver. Be sure to follow the safety protocols associated with whatever degreasing process you choose, including adequate ventilation.
Once everything is degreased, I like to do a trial fit of all of the parts to be sure that we have the correct components but that is optional. We will start by mounting our bases to the receiver, paying careful attention that the slots are mounted in the correct position to allow our rings to interface correctly with our optic — this is where the trial fitting is helpful. Once we are sure that they are in the correct position, we will apply a very small amount of the Surethread from the mounting kit to the base screws — I cannot stress the importance of using this liquid sparingly.
We then use the adjustable torque wrench to apply the correct amount of torque to the mounting screws — torque specs vary, so you should refer to the directions of the particular mount you have chosen. Generally, you want to have about 15-1inch-lbs. of torque on the mounting screws.
Tighten each screw a turn or two and then move to the next screw so that consistent pressure is maintained on all screws. Continue this process until the torque wrench indicated that all of the screws are at the correct spec by audibly clicking when the bit is turned.
Once again, the trial fit is a good idea here. A tiny amount of Surethread is used on these screws and before using the torque wrench to tighten them — do not assume that the torque specs for these screws are the same as the bases. Refer to the instructions to be sure. For Weaver rings, the recommended torque is 25-30 inch-lbs. for aluminum rings and 35-4inch-lbs. for steel rings.
We have a mass-produced firearm built in one factory and mass-produced optic rings made in another — what are the chances that everything lines up perfectly?
To address any slight variations in machining among the various components, we will lap the rings using a precision-made lapping tool to ensure perfect alignment. Select the lapping bar from the Weaver kit and place it into the optic rings to makes sure that they are visually aligned — this ensures that we have the correct rings and bases for the job and that we have installed them correctly.
Once you’ve confirmed that everything is aligned at a basic level, we will begin the lapping process. Apply lapping compound to the inside surfaces of the ring bottoms — too little compound means you won’t get a good cut and too much will make a mess. Screw the handle into the lapping bar and place the bar into the rings. Using the handle for leverage, slide the handle back and forth in the rings and let the compound do the cutting. You will see that the compound has removed some of the finish from the inside of the rings, which is an indicator that it’s doing its job.
Continue the lapping process until it appears that the compound is not removing any more finish. Use a paper towel to clean the compound from the rings and the lapping bar followed by a quick wipe with your degreasing agent. These rings are aluminum so removing the finish will not cause us any problems down the road but, in the case of steel optic rings, applying some cold blue will prevent corrosion down the road.
Now we will set the eye relief so that you will see a crisp image when you mount the optic to your shoulder. Place your scope into the ring bottoms, as far forward as it will go and set the scope to its highest magnification (power) if the scope is a variable power model.
Remove the rifle from the cradle and mount it to your shoulder while pointing it in a safe direction. You will likely see a fuzzy black ring around the perimeter of the scope’s image — slowly slide the optic rearward in the rings, moving it toward your eye until the black ring disappears. Being careful not to move the scope from its position, place the scope back in the cradle. A good trick to ensure that this position is maintained is to place a piece of masking tape on the optic where it meets the ring as a witness mark.
You may have noticed that the scope’s crosshairs weren’t in the correct position when you looked through the scope — we will address that issue now. It is very important that the optic’s reticle is level with the rifle, especially if we are going to use the reticle to address bullet drop in the field.
The Weaver kit includes two bubble levels for addressing this issue. One level is placed into the ejection port of the action to establish a baseline “horizon” for the rifle. The other level is placed on top of the scope’s adjustment cap and the scope is rotated until both bubbles indicate a level condition. It is important that we leave the levels in-place while we complete the next step to ensure that we maintain this alignment as we install the rings.
Different mounting solutions use different methods of attaching the two ring sections — some split horizontally, some vertically. Our Weaver rings are split horizontally. Hook the ring top over the slot in the bottom half and rotate the top ring downward so that the screw holes in the top half of the ring align with those in the bottom half.
Start the screws into the holes to hold everything in place and start to tighten them, again using the torque wrench and the correct spec and maintaining consistent tension across each of the screws. For Weaver optic rings, the recommended torque is 15-1inch-lbs.
Take a look at your levels and ensure that the bubbles are still in the correct position. Using this type of ring, it is likely that you will see the scope cant when the ring screws are tightened. You will have to use trial and error to overcompensate for this cant before tightening the screws to ensure that the bubbles are level when the appropriate torque is applied.
It is importantly to note that, when using this style of Weaver rings, the ring halves will not fully meet when the rings are torqued down. It is not necessary that the rings touch, and forcing them to do so will likely damage the rings.
At this point, we have finished our mounting job. Now is the time to inspect the rifle, optic and mounts to be sure that we have done everything correctly. Take a close look at the scope and make certain that it does not touch the rifle anywhere but the mounts, as this can have a detrimental effect on accuracy.
Re-confirm that the scope’s reticle is level and mount the rifle to your shoulder to confirm that the eye relief is correct and that you see a clear and crisp image through the scope. Follow the optic’s directions on focusing the scope’s ocular ring so that the reticle is in focus for your eye. Again in a safe direction, cycle the unloaded action (replacing the bolt if you removed it for this project) and make sure that the scope and mount do not interfere with the movement of the bolt or safety.
If your mounting job passes the inspection, you’ve done a great job and will be ahead of the game when it comes to achieving good performance from your rifle. Remember that the optic is not zeroed at this point, so it will take some range time to make our crosshairs match the bullet’s point of impact. We’ll save that lesson for another day.
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Investing In a Good Paintball Gun for a Beginner
Though I did notice here above that it can be a challenging task to look for your perfect gun, it can be as easy as just choosing any paintball randomly that your friend suggested to you.
Nevertheless, the right way is to do your personal research and discover what kind of gun you intended and what kind of paintball you desire on playing.
The perfect gun of your friend might now fit your mode of the game. Therefore, you should take the time to explore and know different paintball gun reviews before you think what to buy.
Ninja Air Aluminum HPA NPaintball Tank 3000psi
The number of guns available is designed to use CO2, and you can look forward to paying around 5-bucks.
Experiencing mechanical paintball guns will improve and extend the gameplay without obstacle because there is a refill area on most paintball fields.
It is known to all that woodsball is usually a paintball that is played in the woods! Or, an organized speed-ball field at any other place.
Although you will find limits and the fields are generally large acres and the covers are trees, rocks and other things there are in nature or the covers are build with of dirt, sticks, plywood.
This type of game is superbly fast paced and will last around 3-minutes. Though it only lasts for a while, it does not understand that nothing happens!
While you are enjoying speedball games, you will have to move very fast to get the right angle on your fellow competitors that are covering themselves behind inflatable bunkers.
Throughout speedball play, thousands of paintballs are interchanged between players during a single round, and you can desire to witness more than points played in just under minutes of play.
There is a possibility that you will most likely buy and store cases of painting between game-plays. It can be said that if you are not needed to use the paint that is sold in the field.
Paint comes in different kinds of quality, and it can also be said that the quality of the paint will influence your exactness. So, you need to spend in decent quality made ammo for your paintball gun.
Even though you spend in the most expensive and high standard paintball gun, it does not imply that it will enhance your game or accuracy if you fill it with crappy paintballs.
Also, the model will not provide you any sign about the acting of the paintballs. It can be said that, if you were given in high-quality paint, you need to rescue them and ensure you store them entirely to prevent them from any damage.
Store your gun, equipment and ammo in dry and cool place. In the event you are keeping your stuff disassembled in various parts, you have to be demonstrated to change the position of the paintballs to confine breakage or dimpling.
Dimpled or old paintballs could break and leak, or make artificial spin and even leak into the barrel causing, even more, internal loss.
If you custom order your paintball preferably of purchasing them from your local store, it may reduce incorrectly stored ammunition.
To avoid purchasing impair goods when you are in a store, always open the container to test the accessories that you are purchasing. If the paintballs are featuring round, you will be able to fire them nicely.
Battery life also powers accuracy. You need to focus to the battery because it can be difficult to understand when the battery life starts to lose. In these circumstances, you might not even know that your battery life is going down.
Get a High-Flow Regulator
Spending in a high-flow controller will do magic for you. It will originally turn your average unit into a super unit. It will profoundly enhance the performance of your device as well as develop the accuracy importantly.
If any of your team-mates or rivals demand they have the best paintball guns, it is most likely because of a high-flog regulator.
The valve of this Tippmann XPhenom Paintball Marker works below 300 PSI which upgrades its efficiency. It is also offering the players more than 1400 shots.
The valve design features that recoil is virtually removed to improve the accuracy of shots. The seamless design also includes several wear parts making it easy to maintain.
The 9.inch of Barrel
This confirms you to shot far away targets up to 150 ft. It also permits you to use five different modes which include Response, semi-auto, NPPL, and a cyclone feed system. You can fire 1balls per second using these features. There is no need to use batteries in this model.
The U.S. Army Project Salvo is constructed with a standard 1inch anodized quick thread barrel, shroud, stock and rails. It features a.6caliber marker that can be paired with the standard paintballs that are available at local stores.
Multiple Critical Systems
The Dye Proto Rail MaXXed Paintball Gun and the internal design enhance its performance.
For example, it features a polycarbonate pipe shield that cleans the anti-chop eye system and confirms the eyes are always observing the ball drop and the breech. It also features an eye pipe system which removes double feeding and missed feeds.
Color Coded O-rings
The coded O-rings are best for maintenance. They make sure that the user can easily control the gun in case of any matter that might occur. Replacing the O-rings is not a difficult task because they can be easily identified because of their individual colors.
The Empire Axe looks excellent on the hands. It is light enough that running around a lot will not make it feel hefty. The Empire Axe has a plenty of room in the grips to let players hold it in many ways compared to the Empire Mini.
The Axe features with an internal gas line. This implies that you can quickly change hands without hitting a gas line.
Empire Axe Performance
The Empire Axe shoots very straight. This is also what many other players who have used the Axe for the first time say. You can simply feel any kick to it and the smaller marker size helps lower any recoil.
It also features super quiet. You can simply hear it even in an indoor field. The Empire Axe never had a single paint break after shooting off around pods.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Screw Guns wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Screw Guns
- №1 — DEKO AllinONE AO108 Tool Set 108 pcs Electric Screwdriver 3.6V Cordless Power Screw Guns Rechargeable Lithium-Ion Household Tools Project Kit With Toolbox Storage Case
- №2 — Tacklife SDP50DC Cordless Rechargeable Screwdriver 3.6-Volt 2000mAh Li-ion MAX Torque 4N.m — LED
- №3 — DEWALT DCF620B 20-volt MAX XR Li-Ion Brushless Drywall ScrewGun Baretool