Welcome to Gadget Review!

Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.

Check Today Price

Best Sinking Lures 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]

Last Updated February 1, 2018
Share on Facebook0Share on Google+0Pin on Pinterest0Share on StumbleUpon0Tweet about this on Twitter

Edwin GarrettHi there, my name is Edwin Garrett and the first thing I would like to say is thanks for stopping by my website. One of the most important sections in the article – the comparison charts for best sinking lures in 2018!

Eventually, I found something that would suit my needs but it occurred to me that I wasn’t the only one who might be having the same problems I did. We take a close look at some of the best sinking lures to help you get ripped.

Best Sinking Lures of 2018

Simply review and buy them. I have a variety of material used in the construction of sinking lures including metal, plastic, and glass. After carefully examining the reviews and ratings of the people who have used them earlier this listicle has been made. Many brands have introduced sinking lures on the market. These brands have resulted in a variety for the user. These require that the consumers be well aware of what they are buying so as to make the best choice.

Test Results and Ratings

Rank №1 №2 №3
Total 4.8 4.5 4.3
5 points
4 points
4 points
4 points
5 points
4 points
5 points
4 points
4 points
5 points
5 points
5 points
Awards 1
button button button
banner banner banner





How to save up to 86%? Here is little trick.



№1 – Savage Gear TPE 3D Shrimp Sinking Fishing Lure

Savage Gear TPE 3D Shrimp Sinking Fishing Lure

Based on 3D Scans from a Real Shrimp; Ultra-realistic paint jobs perfectly mimic many shrimp species
Specially designed tail for life like kicking action
Rigged with a weighted ultra-sharp EWG hook
Absolutely no frills

Why did this sinking lures win the first place?

The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch!












№2 – Yo-Zuri 3DB Crayfish Slow Sinking Lure

Yo-Zuri 3DB Crayfish Slow Sinking Lure

Slow Sinking butterfly stroke Action
Jointed tail
Wave motion leg
It is pretty expensive.
Heavy in weight as compared to others in our lineup.

Why did this sinking lures come in second place?

The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made.












№3 – Sougayilang Fishing Lures Large Hard Bait Minnow VIB Lure with Treble Hook Life-like Swimbait Fishing Bait 3D Fishing Eyes Popper Crankbait Vibe Sinking Lure for Bass Trout Walleye Redfish

Sougayilang Fishing Lures Large Hard Bait Minnow VIB Lure with Treble Hook Life-like Swimbait Fishing Bait 3D Fishing Eyes Popper Crankbait Vibe Sinking Lure for Bass Trout Walleye Redfish

10PCS Lure:Weight: 0.81oz; Length: 5.5in, Hook Size:4# ;3D lifelike eyes, High resolution body detail, 3 strong and sharp treble hooks.
Brilliant colors:Brilliant colors and realistic crankbait with lifelike bait fish swimming action to attract fishes which can be used in both saltwater and freshwater.
Not as good as some others we reviewed.
May be a little heavy for some people.

Why did this sinking lures take third place?

It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.












Sinking Lures Buyer’s Guide

If you keep the before points in mind, you can easily go out to the market and buy sinking lures, right? No!


We won’t detail colours of lures in this article because that is something that varies on any given day and there isn’t a definitive ‘best colour’. If there was, all lures would be that one colour! Instead this in-depth article details what to look out for when buying lures to catch pike, zander, chub and perch.

Here we’ll cover them all in detail to explain how they all work and perform, plus we’ll show you how to retrieve each style for the maximum effect.

Choosing plugs

Plugs can be bought in single bodied or jointed form. They perform the same but you’ll find the jointed lures wriggle and can produce more fish.

Some plugs to not have lips. These are floating plugs designed to catch fish in the surface layers because they do not dive under the surface very far – only inches in most cases. Great for summer pike action.

The angle of the lip will determine how deep floating lures dive. If the lure has a long lip that points straight out front it will dive very quickly indeed and will be designed for winding down to depth of around 10ft or even more. These are perfect in winter when the predators will be lying at the bottom.

If you see a floating lure that’s lip points downwards it will be a shallow diver – it will dive quickly to around 4ft deep maximum.

There are lips set at 4degrees to the body – these will dive to around 6-8ft, so all depths can be covered by a variety of floating diving plugs that have different lip angles.

Sinking plugs will continue to drop to the bottom until you start retrieving. If these lures didn’t have lips they would simply come straight up to the surface, but the force of the water against the lip pushes the lure down. The combined effect of trying to wind the plug to the surface against the force of the water pushing down on the lip makes the lure travel in a straight line. It will only begin rising upwards when it nears the angler and the upward pull from the reeling beats the downward force on the plug’s lip.

The lips on plugs vary massively. The uppermost plug has a long, straight lip that will make it dive very quickly to extreme depths. The lower plug has a lip that protudes downwards and this will make the plug dive to only a few feet. A good combination of lip patterns will ensure that you can cover a multitude of depths.

With care, sinking plugs can be worked at any depth. All you have to do is to count them down. As soon as the lure hits the surface start counting and start the first retrieve when you reach two. On the next cast aim at the same spot, count to four, then start retrieving. If the water’s deep enough do the same again but count to six.

Doing this ensures that your plug works at different levels of the water, giving you a higher chance of retrieving your plug right alongside a pike.

Some plugs are jointed versions. They perform exactly the same as the above descriptions except they wriggle when they work through the water. They are very popular lures because of this added attraction.

Here’s how floating plugs work underwater. When you crank the plug back it will dive to a depth determined by the angle of the lip, and when you stop winding the lure back it will begin to float upwards again. Simply repeat the process to create a zig-zag pattern through the water.

Fishing with jerkbaits

A decade ago jerkbaits were out of reach for most anglers as they required incredibly powerful and specialist rods that are only any good for jerkbait fishing, super strong traces of 100lb-plus breaking strain, 100lb braided mainlines and powerful multiplier reels. Now times have changed and thankfully any lure fisherman can use the new breed of micro jerkbaits on the market.

Years ago jerkbaits used to weigh between 6-12oz and cost £2or so apiece. Now you can buy much smaller mini jerkbaits that weigh the same as most plugs and cost under a tenner – perfect!

Here’s examples of jerkbaits. On the left, we have the new breed of micro-jerks and on the right are the original jerkbaits that can weigh in excess of 8oz.

To make these lures perform as haphazardly as that requires a completely different technique. Instead of winding the lures back they should be flicked back using short and sharp flicks of the rod. The rod should be jerked downwards to make the lure shoot forwards, then the angler will have to lift the rod and wind in some line then jerk the rod down again.

The results can be amazing – we would definitely advise you give these tremendous little micro jerkbaits a try.

You will need to use a braided mainline though because mono will stretch and absorb some of the action made by flicking the rod tip down.

Here’s how jerkbaits work underwater. Some jerkbaits sink while others float, but they should still be fished in the same manner, which involves flicking the rod tip downwards sharply to force the jerkbait through the water. This action will make the lure dart about all over the place.

Fishing through weed with spinnerbaits

Amazingly these V-shaped lures with their inward-pointing hooks do catch predators. They are quite specialised in that not many anglers use them, probably due to the strange shape and not knowing just how affective they can be.

But spinnerbaits are great fish catchers as – like a certain lager – they reach the parts other lures can’t. Because of the inward-pointing hook they can be worked really close and often through strands of weed – the lure just bounces through the green stuff. And in winter, when the pike sink to the bottom and tuck themselves up right in the strands of weed, these lures can be very effective indeed.

To fish them correctly requires using the countdown method (detailed above) to ensure that the lure works at the right depth. When it’s steadily wound back to the rod tip the lure spins and flashes as the metallic spoon attached to the body catches any light at the bottom of the water.

Here’s how spinner baits perform underwater. They should be counted down to the bottom and then retrieved steadily with the odd pause to make them flutter through any weed on the bottom.

When rigged-up correctly the hook should protrude out of the top of the plastic body so that the lure can come to rest on the bottom with the hook pointing upwards, well out of the way of any weed. This makes the lures perfect for bouncing along the bottom to create plenty of disturbance and even small clouds of silt eruptions from the lake or river bed that will attract the attention of nearby predators.

For this reason they are ideal in the depths of winter when the pike lay close to the bottom.

Pop-up the hook

If you are noticing ‘taps’ on the lure from fish hitting it as it’s being retrieved, but you aren’t gaining proper takes, try this neat trick. Cut off a small section of rig foam and slide it over one of the points of the trailing treble hook. This will lift the treble hook and provide far more hook-ups from any fish that hits it.

Try a rattler

In murky water or when fishing lures really deep down, predators may not be able to see your lure approaching, but by using a lure featuring a rattle within the body or a rattle clipped to the trace the fish will hear the lures long before they manage to see them.

Size matters

You don’t always need big lures to catch huge pike. Providing the lure you are using is presented correctly you should catch, and that is regardless of the size. All you need is the confidence to fish the lure you’ve just clipped to your trace!


Ray-JrMALL Plastic Frog Fishing Lure Crank Baits Double Claw-Like Hook


Body Length: 5.5CM (Approx.)
Hooks: Sharp & High Penetration Hook
Material:plastic This popular bait is a favorite prey …

Rapala Rattlin 0Fishing Lures

Cast out a Rattlin’ Rapala and watch the swimming action at slow to very fast retrieve rates — you’ll be amazed. This extra-loud, shallow-running …

KMBEST Fishing Lures Mixed Lots including Hard Lure Minnow Popper Crankbaits VIB Topwater Diving Floating Lures Soft Plastics Worm Spoons Other Saltwater Freshwater Lures with Tackle Box â– Product application:

This Fishing lure kit can be used for Bass, Crappie, Bream, Trout,Salmon, Catfish, Walleye,Marlin, Muskie, Northern pike,and some many …


500pcs Different Sizes Fishing Hooks Fish Hooks Fishhooks Sharpened Sharp Fishing Fish Hook Tackle Lure Bait Set Kit

Material: durable hard iron and plastic Box size (L*W*H): about 13.1cm x 7cm x 2.2cm. Hooks length: about from 1cm to 2.5cm 500pcs Different Sizes …

Lixada Fishing Lure Segment Lifelike Swimbait Multi Jointed Artificial Bait Crankbait Hard Bait Treble Hooks for Bass Perch Trout 10cm/4″ 15.5g,Colors

1LIXADA 4″ multi-jointed sun fish is one of the best accessories in your tackle box. It has lifelike appearance and can create S-swim motion at any …

Ron Powers

Hard-plastic swimming plugs are universally one of the most successful families of lures for one simple reason—big fish eat smaller fish. Few tackle companies have embraced that concept and developed it to the degree of Yo-Zuri. Over 20 years ago, fresh from its groundbreaking Crystal Minnow, Yo-Zuri proved that it was no one-hit wonder with the Pins Minnow, which has become a standard when the bite is big but the prey is small.

Small hard-plastic swimming lures were nothing new to the market when the Yo-Zuri Pins Minnow first burst on the scene, but this was a radically different design. One of the goals was to craft a lure in which small and tough were not mutually exclusive. Anyone who has a history with typical 2- to 3½-inch swimmers probably has a tray in their tackle box designated for “de-lipped” versions that have “transitioned” from a swimming plug to a stickbait thanks to whacking it off a rock or the lure being pulverized by a big fish. Odds are pretty good that there are no Pins Minnows in that junkyard. “The Pins Minnow is built with a proprietary polycarbonate for both the body and the lip of the lure,” explained Yo-Zuri VP of Sales Buddy Prause. Components consist of stainless steel split rings and super-sharp, strong treble hooks for fast penetration and grip. If you’ve been at this game awhile you probably remember the first time you held a Yo-Zuri lure in your hand and were floored by the finish. Far from resting on its laurels, the company is now into the third generation of perfecting those finishes.

The Pins Minnow has a computer-generated laser-etched finish complete with scaled holographic foil that is built to last

There is no tape on the exterior of these lures but rather a computer-generated laser-etched finish complete with scaled holographic foil that is built to last. From the onset this lure was so tough that when the company marketed a saltwater version of the Pins Minnow to satisfy demand, they simply produced different colors. The inherent ruggedness of the lure required no further fortifying.

Today, there is no delineation between salt versus sweetwater Pins Minnows as both salt- and freshwater-friendly colors are available in floating and sinking models. In fact, there are 1different colors available for the Pins Minnows as well as a range of sizes from 2-inch, 1/16-ounce to 3½-inch, ¼-ounce. Included in the extensive Pins Minnow palette is the legendary Yo-Zuri angled redhead/white as well UV-enhanced finishes. The latter is becoming increasingly appreciated by anglers as we learn that fish are attracted to ultraviolet rays that we cannot see.

Of course, production values as well as a pretty face do not catch fish and it is precisely this fish-catching prowess that has vaulted the Pins Minnow into icon status. “With its signature humpback shape, hydrodynamics and lip design, our Pins Minnow was developed to have a tight wobble, just like a real baitfish,” explained Prause. From its inception this theory ran counter to established lure design, that even to this day showcases lures with exaggerated movements like a dog wagging its tail. All that wobble and roll sure is eye-candy to the angler, but it is decidedly unnatural to the fish. And, of course, the point is to fool a fish. If you watch baitfish and fry they keep their motion to a minimum to avoid detection.

Another goal in the design of the Pins Minnow was to make this little lure fish as if it were a big plug. The challenge was to allow anglers to hit a faraway mark with the Pins Minnow that heretofore was unattainable with small swimmers. “We were the first lure company to debut a weight-transfer system in both our Mag Minnow and Pins Minnow; in fact we patented our proprietary system,” said Prause. That “weight-transfer system” consists of steel balls located in a chamber in the body of the lure that shift to the rear during the casting motion, allowing the lure to be more aerodynamic and cast farther. This system is now employed by a host of other lure makers, but Yo-Zuri did it first and some say did it best.

The first segment of the sportfishing community that took to the Pins Minnow was trout fishermen. Contrary to the stereotypical image of trout gingerly sipping a micro-midge from the surface of the water, most trout have teeth for good reason. Given the chance, they’ll make mincemeat out of minnows and smaller fish. The Pins Minnow is the perfect trout-taker. The floating version can be dead-sticked on the surface and occasionally twitched for big brown trout feeding in low light. Or it can be steadily retrieved—with little or no input from the angler—for nomadic rainbows since fish-catching moves are built in. “West Coast anglers love the sinking version, which they simply troll over marked fish behind feet of fluorocarbon leader,”

Size & Weight

Generally jigs start at 2.and go to 4.0. You can buy smaller and much larger sizes but for targeting calamari these sizes are best and that’s what you will find at the local tackle store. These numbers reflect length not weight, however, you can use common sense and understand that a 4.0 jig will sink faster than a 2.So choose jigs based on the water depth you’re fishing. If you’re fishing really deep water you can buy specialized heavily weighted jigs. If fishing anywhere from 3-metres I like using 3.0 and 3.size jigs. They cast really well and the squid view them as a good meal. As you can see from the pictures in this article even small squid hit big jigs. Squid will often hunt in very shallow water of 1-2m. Fishing these areas can be productive but the faster sink rate of larger jigs can cause you a lot of snags so using a 2.or a specilaised slow sinking jig will be a better option. A lot of landbased fishermen fishing from rocks will only be casting into shallow water, but these waters hold squid so don’t bypass them and have a few 2.size jigs in your arsenal.

Like with any lure this is a topic of much debate and everyone is passionate about certain colours and has favourites. There are basic guidelines provided by squid jig companies that outline when and in what conditions you should use certain colours. Yamashita has the most extensive guides and they’re easily accessible online. You can check them out by googling “yamashita colour chart”. These recommendations are great and have their merits but can be a little confusing with the huge array of foil/cloth combinations. I highly suggest you have a look at these recommendations and use this as base to work off, however, try and keep it simple otherwise you will find you need 2different colour combinations.

To conclude


In addition to length, crank lips can also come in many different widths. This will affect how much they move as you reel it in. The general rule is that a wider lip will create a more noticeable, or wider, wobble. A narrow lip will create a tighter wobble with a slightly higher frequency in many cases.

Feel free to check out our guide on how to use a crankbait for much more detailed information!


The blades are the reason why these lures are called spinners. As they are retrieved from the water, the blades will spin very rapidly, creating a vibration and stunning flash that make them irresistible for most fish. The size and style of blades will determine the extent of vibration and flash, and also allows you to customize your tackle based on your history of success with particular spinners.

Spinners will also often come with a skirt made from either plastic or hair. This adds to the appearance of the lure and can be optimized to many different situations. These skirts can help reduce the chance of a snag, and some spinners also come with a guard specific to that purpose.

Crankbaits for Trout

Crankbaits have wider swimming action than than the thinner minnow type plug baits. They generally have a fatter bulky profile and a more aggressively down-turned diving lip. They can be fished deeper by increasing the retrieval speed or by adding weight or a down rigger when trolled from a boat.

How to Fish a Crankbait ​You’ve generally got two choices when fishing a crankbait twitch and jerk it just under the surface or get it down deeper to where the fish are hiding out.


Crankbaits can run down to about feet when retrieved at a fast rate or they may be naturally sinking. If you are using a sinking lure then you can generally count them down to a specific depth. These kinds of crankbaits will generally sink at about a foot per second, but it might vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

You may notice that picky trout have a habit of following a lure that is retrieved at a steady rate but at the last moment turning off it. If this is happening often then you need to vary how the lure runs through the water. If the slightest change in how it swims may force a reaction out of the fish. When casting over sunken object or close to banks try to keep your rod tip up high so that you can avoid snagging on them at add a little action into the lure. Try not to fish the lure too quickly if any thing start out slow and see how things progress.

As a general rule the more natural looking baitfish imitating colors tend to produce the best. Silver on dull overcast days. Gold on brighter days. Both brown and rainbow trout crankbait patterns are reliable on most days and occasionally a perch pattern can be great. 

On most rivers and streams you are looking to keep the size of crankbaits for trout on the low side, generally less than inches or if the water is dark or running a little bit high then you could stretch it to inches. The slimmer shaped ones seem to be more effective than the fatter ones with the more aggressive diving lips.

Rebel Crickhopper Lure

One of the strangest looking lures you are likely to encounter the Crickhopper is best worked and twitched across the surface.

The Wee-Crawfish runs best at about 5-feet. Obviously this will work best on waters that have a natural supply of crawfish.

Rebel Hellgrammite Lure

Another odd looking lure but can be surprisingly effective.

Tackle for these light weight plugs is generally going to be light spinning or even dropping down to ultra light spinning. Line wise no more than 6lbs should be necessary and a rod length of about foot for working along a tight river bank.

Lure Colors

Walleye crankbaits are available in a spectrum of colors and finishes, painted, foil, chrome, prism, glass, photo and holographic finishes. In building your lure assortment the best is to mimic the dominant forage in the waters your fishing. Here’s a simple guideline of basic successful colors:

Lure Action

The action of a walleye crankbait  by many avid walleye anglers is the most important for making the grade attracting walleyes to bite. The action sought is a top-to-bottom roll maximizing the side flash that trigger walleyes to bite.

The time of year and the water temperature will be the basis of which type of action category is used.

Early Spring and Late Fall when water temperature is 50 degress and under, subtle action baits are most successful these are classfied as straight minnow type crank baits.


Freshwater game fish are predatory by nature there also opportunistic and will take advantage of any food source presented to them to fill their feeding needs. Other than baitfish they will also feed on crawfish, frogs, water snakes, swimming rodents, amphibians and insects. The above photo shows lures that imitate each type.

Tungsten breakthrough

WHEN we set out to make our original sinking fly lines more than 20 years ago, we focused on elements that would radically improve their performance – core stretch, sink path and durability were all elements we felt could be improved upon, but the most radical change was our decision to use tungsten, rather than lead powder, as a sinking agent. We were the first company to do this.

Tungsten, being far denser than lead, results in faster sinking fly lines, and is totally inert and environmentally-friendly.

Core stretch

WHEN fishing with a sinking line you seldom see the fish take the fly – you feel it. Unfortunately, the inherent stretch of 20-2per cent in a regular sinking fly line with a braided multifilament core means that a lot of takes are never even registered. This led us to develop lines with Kevlar cores instead.

Kevlar, besides being bullet-proof, is completely non-stretch. This makes it great for casting, take detection and setting the hook. Its big drawback is a short working life and a tendency to develop a memory.

Instead of Kevlar, which we no longer use, we developed what we feel is now the ultimate fly line core – Power Core braid. This tightly woven multifilament polyester has only six per cent stretch and corresponding sensitivity. The material transmits casting energy/take detection better and is now the basis of most of our fly lines. In the heavier breaking strains, Power Core lines are ideal for use in saltwater, where setting large hooks at range is a priority.

Dual coating

MORE recently, lines with our dual coating PolyFuse technology offer even greater control over fly presentation. The two coatings are again formed at the extrusion stage, and we can vary their respective densities and thicknesses with great precision.

Having got the basics right, we looked at other inherent problems of the sinking lines offered by our competitors.

Overlapping sink rates

SINK rate is vital in a fly line, but most manufacturers hedge their bets – for example, intermediate lines are quoted at 1.5-1.7inches per second (Di- 1.5-1.75).

With varying amounts of coating, the higher the line size, the faster the sink rate and the harder this is to determine with any precision – one manufacturer even claims a sink rate of 7-inches per second, even though there is only one line size available.

At Airflo, we vary the density of each line, slightly tweaking it so that a WFand a WFDi-will both sink at three inches per second. This is carried through our range in a logical manner, regardless of line size.

Rapala Rattlin 05

If you want to learn everything there’s to know about the best bass fishing lures out there, you’ve come to the right place. We’ve created a short guide that can speak to the needs and requirements of both beginners and expert fishermen. Just remember, your preferences and the species of fish you’re targeting have to say a lot when it comes to understanding what lured to use for bass.

The user’s skill

There are five types of fishing lures for bass but one has to consider a series of factors when making the right decision between one kind and the next. Aside from the price of the lure per say, both a novice and an advanced fisherman have to take into account things like the water conditions and whether they need the best lures for largemouth bass or the best smallmouth bass lures.

Some of the easiest units to work with are soft baits, crankbaits, and jigs. These three types offer the right results especially for people who are just starting out with bass fishing. By contrast, an expert fisherman is likely to benefit from using spinnerbaits and surface lures. It goes without saying that there’s no rigid rule as to the amount of experience one needs when using either beginner or advanced baits and lures. Surface lures somewhat require a good degree of skill because they should be employed with different casting techniques that beginners may not have mastered. Depending on their characteristics, many large spinnerbaits are the best bass lures for summer and that’s because they should be used in warm water that allows them to spin faster. If you’re feeling a little puzzled about which one to pick, we recommend buying one of each and testing them out so that you realize which one is the right one for you.

Water conditions and depth

If you plan to fish through wood cover or any other area where the lure might encounter various obstacles, then you should set your mind on finding the best lipless crankbaits. They offer excellent results when being used in very shallow water. Medium-diving crankbaits are fantastic alternatives for fishing in to 10-ft range whereas deep-diving crankbaits should be utilized in 1feet of water or more. If it’s windy or cloudy and you plan to fish through thick cover, we recommend using spinnerbaits, perhaps even with a larger blade. Topwaters and jigs should be used when fishing in extremely shallow waters and worms and the likes are good bass fishing lures when the water is warm and clear.

Other Considerations in Choosing Bluegill Lures

Choosing the right bait will also involve the water and weather conditions. Moreover, you should know that small baits are ideal for spinning and spincasting tackles. A bluegill is a variety of small panfish, so small baits work for them.

You should also consider the weather conditions when deciding which your lure to use. A bright and colorful bait is perfect for fishing during bright days. On the contrary, fish will likely get allured by dark-color baits during cloudy and dim days. It will also help if your bait can produce sound or vibrations.

Crickhopper Fishing Lure

One of the most excellent fishing lures for bluegills is the Crickhopper Fishing Lure. This particular bait can unleash the predatory instinct of bluegills once they see it float on the water!

The Crickhopper Fishing Lure mimics the natural appearance of crickets. In fact, its appearance is almost the same as to a real cricket. Since bluegills love this insect, you can guarantee that this bait will work effectively!

This bait can dive deep in the water; thus bluegills can see them. Specifically, this bait can be submerged up to feet. If you are hunting any other freshwater game fish, you should use this lure.

Moreover, the Crickhopper Fishing Lure is capable of fast retrieval. Once you hover it with erratic movements, bluegills won’t simply ignore it! The full potential of this lure can be attained if you use a double loop knot on a 10-pound line.

Rapala Ultra Light Minnow

Bluegills can never resist minnows. After all, this small fish is part of their natural diet! The Rapala Ultra Light Minnow is one of your best choices for a bluegill bait. Each of these lures is hand-crafted and tank-tested. Therefore, their durability is top notch.

The Rapala Ultra Light Minnow also possesses a life-like appearance. In fact, it has external scales and 3D holographic eyes. Because of these features, freshwater predators won’t give any suspicions on this bait. It should also be noted that this bait has a special lip design.

One good thing about the Rapala Ultra Light Minnow is that it has a weighted body. It can glide underwater for a realistic swimming action. By then, bluegills will rush towards this bait! It also notable that this lure has a unique wobbling motor to attract fish.

Non slip loop

Most of the time, I use a nonslip loop knot. This gives typically gives the fly a lot of freedom to do a seductive dance. It also allows the fly to work through cracks and snags, rocking in a natural way. The non-slip loop hides the snaggy tag of the leader. Knot strength is lower, but heavier, stiffer leaders have high strength.

Gulley Worm

We’ll change leaders when fishing clear water. Thinner leaders allow the flies to sink quicker. Classic knotless tapered leaders give good action and have less drag, so the flies sink more easily. Use them in areas when the flies are not being ripped over and through the structure-same places you would use conventional tackle like a crankbait or jig.

Clouser Minnow

The Clouser minnow is a stunningly simple and effective fly. First tied by Bob Clouser, with extensive endorsement by friend, Lefty Kreh (and the rest of us!) It is a fly fisherman’s jig. It can be tied small or large; we like a size two with lead eyes. They are typically tied on a stout galvanized hook, so they are salt water / rust resistant. The Clouser “swims” hook point up which makes it fairly weedless to structure on the bottom. I like to let the fly sink to the bottom, then with quick strips, and pauses, the fly hops across the bottom. Alternatively, fish with a slow strip, which drags the nose across the bottom, kicking up mud and sand. To fish high in the water column, immediately strip the fly when it hits the water. Keep it moving with quick strips. As the fly jigs up and down, you can cover a lot of water in this manner.

Fishing Lures For Yukon Lake Fishing Trips

It is not necessary to buy your fishing tackle and fishing lures for your Yukon fishing adventure before leaving home. Our Wilderness Fishing Yukon guide will be taking you to a fishing gear and supplies store in Whitehorse and will point out some of our favorite and best lake fishing lures.

If, however, you already have the following fishing lures available, please feel free to bring them along and remember that all Yukon lake fishing is with barbless hooks (barbs squashed down with pliers).

Whitefish Fishing Lures

Most whitefish caught are caught accidentally, while trolling or casting for trout or grayling. Some of our guests have succeeded in getting them to hit a nymph fly on the shoals. Flutter spoons are said to work. Ask Bernard about directions for making a whitefish rig.


It is important to mention that jerkbaits have natural floatation and they look like wounded small fish. Obviously, this is an easy prey for bass so they strike like crazy.

If you are fishing in shallow waters, it would be a good idea to use floating (type) jerkbaits. They swim just 1inches below the water surface. On the other hand, you can use sinking jerkbaits for deeper waters

A very good selection, are “broken-back” jerkbaits. They consist of two parts connected with a small ring. The floatation and the slow retrieve will definitely wake up the bass hunting instincts.

Jerkbaits suitable for huge bass have the length of in. up to 7in. and you can use them for all water conditions. However, after testing them we can ensure you that they work better in large lakes. Undoubtedly, they are one of the best summer bass lures as they have an action similar to real fish.

It would be a good idea to use light color jerkbaits during daytime, because the reflecting flashes and light colors can be easily detected by the fish.

Obviously, the best fishing hours are dawn and dusk when bass prefer to hunt.

Shop Now

Choosing the perfect bass lures is not a hard job. The fishing lure is a type of things which is designed to draw fish’s attention. There are many kinds of lures to catch fish. Some of them are made to catch fish in shallow water and some of them to use in deep or weedy water. Now we will discuss the best techniques for selecting the best bass lures to catch bass.

Plastic Worms

Plastic worms are one of the best lures to catch bass. They are very attractive to bass and extremely low priced than other bass fishing lures. They are made of soft plastic. They are usable in open water, and in all seasons. You can use it in bright or dusty water to catch any bass effectively no matter what if it is largemouth or small mouth bass. There are different types of plastic worms available in multicolor to fish bass. You can choice the worm by considering the condition of the place where you are catching bass.

Selecting The Worms Color For Bass

It depends on where are you fishing bass. If you are fishing in dirty or unclear water then obviously you should choice the light colored worm. In stained water, bass can’t watch apparently by vision. So You should select a worm that is bright or light colored. If it is clean water where you are fishing bass, then you don’t have to worry about choosing the worms color.

How To Select Right Worm Size

Choosing worm size depends on two-factor. First one is water clarity and the second one is the sink rate. In clear water, You should use the smaller sized worm to fish bass. If the water is stained or dark, then you should choice the bigger size worms. Because in clear water, bass can watch everything quickly without any problem. But if the water is darker than usual it is hard for bass to detect the lure. That’s why you must use a worm that is large sized the regular to attract the bass.


Crankbaits is another favorite bass fishing lure. Crankbaits have more fishing success rate than others because of its variations. You can use them in all seasons to catch bass. They are commonly used to fish faster than others bass lures. You can cover large water quickly with crankbait. For this reason, Crankbait is a very popular bass fishing lure. There is various type of crankbaits available. We can break them into three categories by determining the depth. They are shallow divers, medium divers, and the third one is deep divers.

Plastic worms

Plastic worms are enticing not only for bass, but for other fishes too. They’re soft, look almost life-like, and features attractive colors. To effectively catch bass using rubber worms, you should also pay attention to your rigging and hookset.

Choosing a rig depends on where you bass is holding and on the environment where you plan to fish. Also, having solid hooksets will further improve your chances of success in catching bass.

In contrast with using other lures, plastic worms need to be retrieved slowly and carefully, unlike other lures. Thus, impatient anglers will inevitably fail with worm fishing. The lure moves slower and thumps lightly when bass attaches to it, so you need a more sensitive line for worm fishing.​

Skirted jigs

Bass fishing in open water, muddy water, rocks, weeds, and even shallow waters? Use a skirted jig. Skirted jigs are very versatile lures. They even sink deep enough or float along the surface if you want them too.

Moreover, they’re attractive and mimics the natural movement of crawfish which are a favorite of bass. They’re fast and easy to retrieve too. The bottomline is, no matter the weather, depth, degree of vegetation, or season is, skirted jigs will guarantee bites every time.

I mentioned before that bass loves crawfish right? Bass eats a variety of forage, but crawfish is their staple. They’re present in shallow waters and mostly active during summer months.

They’re also effective for night fishing because bass knows that crawfish are nocturnal, so they, without a doubt, will bite the lure. Rubber craws can be jigged, dragged on a rig, and fished on a shakey head.


Crankbaits are second to skirted jigs when it comes to versatility. During the cold season, slender and flat cranks with a soft wobble are best used whereas, in drier months, wobbly and chunky cranks keep bass biting.

The key is changing your crankbaits according to the season, type of water body, and water conditions.

Rappala Rattlin Fishing Lure

The lipless crankbait in the form of the Rappala Rattlin Fishing Lure features an excellent sinking action, allows fast and slow retrievals, two full-sized treble hooks, a subtle rattling, and a soft wobble.

Though they claim that this lure sinks deep, it actually works better in shallow waters. What I like about this lure are the two oversized treble hooks that will certainly guarantee a hook-up.

Heddon Super Spook Jr. Lure

The Heddon Super Spook Jr. Lure has a variety of catchy colors. It’s the superior bait for topwater fishing.

Its metallic color reflects flashes of light that attracts attention together with its characteristic loud rattling noise. Furthermore, the lure features super-sharp Excalibur Rotating Treble Hooks that assures that the fish won’t throw the bait after it got hooked.

The key towards success with this lure is the way you cast and move the line. When moved slowly with long pulls, the lure slides gracefully like a snake.

Supertrip Segment Swimbait

The unique swimbait features a realistic-looking 3D appearance complete with catchy colors and patterns that will surely attract bass. Check out the lure’s eyes also. Too realistic!

The gorgeous lure attracts fishes of all kinds not only due to its appearance but also its wounded-like movement under water due to its super flexible hinges. Also, the distinct color of the lure can still be seen even in murky waters.

There’s a wide selection of wagglers

Walk into any tackle shop and you’ll see various waggler floats to cater for different fishing scenarios. It’s well worth buying a variety of wagglers to suit various uses. You might be fishing right at your feet one session and casting well out into a stiff wind the next, with each scenario requiring quite a different float. There are several kinds of waggler to look out for:

Straight wagglers

C: Straight Wagglers: As the name sounds, these floats are straight, and have a thicker tip than insert models. These are sensible floats to use when you need extra stability; for example, when wind or tow will pull a skinny tip under and give false bites. The longer, larger floats can handle blustery conditions and be cast a fair distance. Some also have little “bodies” or thicker sections to offer even more casting weight and stability.


Setting up a waggler rig isn’t rocket science, but the way you do this can be crucial to success. While not essential, it’s very helpful to use a float adaptor. This is a little silicone sleeve which accepts any waggler float.

The adaptor allows you to change your float at a moment’s notice without starting all over again. For example, you might decide to switch to a larger float to combat wind, or to make longer casts.

First, attach your waggler by trapping it onto your main reel line with split shot. Most floats will tell you how many shot are required by the numbers and letters written on the side (for example “3BB” or “5AA”).

A good general rule is to trap the float in place with at least two thirds of the required shot. This is because having most of the weight in one place helps with casting; lots of shot scattered down the line tend to cause tangles.

Attach your shot snugly to the line, but avoid squeezing them on so tightly that they’re fixed. You should be able to move them along the line to adjust the depth.

Basic Waggler fishing skills

Many new and inexperienced anglers just want to cast their float as far as possible. However, the best advice on most popular day ticket lakes would be to start much closer in, because there will often be many more fish right by the bank and close to marginal features.

Where to begin

A good starting point for your waggler fishing session is often to try just down the “shelf”, where the margin drops away into slightly deeper water, often between one and two rod lengths out. In warm weather, fish like carp might come right under your feet; in the winter, you may fare better by fishing deeper water.

Once you’re happy with where you want to fish, it’s time to add some bait. Start with a small handful of samples, but be prepared to keep adding a small amount to this at regular intervals.

Why you should trust me

I’m a United States Coast Guard–certified master captain, and I have been fishing since I could walk. I grew up working on charter boats in and around Long Island Sound, and reliable fishing gear has been paramount not only to my profession but also to my life. Having fished on a budget in settings as varied and diverse as the spring brooks of the Adirondack Mountains, the brown sludge that is the Hudson River, and the emerald coastal waters of New Zealand, I can say that a careful selection of the most durable all-around tackle has been essential to me.

Your guide, Owen James Burke, testing our picks on a beach in New Zealand.

To supplement my own expertise, I enlisted the help of veteran spinning-reel reviewer Alan Hawk and also consulted Salt Water Sportsman editor-at-large and NBC Sports television host George Poveromo on what would be the ideal spinning-rod-and-reel setup for a casual fisher.

Who this is for

Like most fishers, I’m not able to carry, store, or afford a different rod and reel for every species of fish or method of fishing. So I picked an affordable, high-quality spinning-rod-and-reel combo that can work in as many fishing conditions and settings as possible—including saltwater and freshwater. This spinning-rod-and-reel setup is approachable enough for a novice to learn on, yet it performs well enough for a seasoned veteran to depend on.

In researching and testing, I prioritized attributes such as durability and build quality—features that anyone, regardless of skill level and intended use, can appreciate—over more specialized features such as multiple-geared reels for using live bait or especially stiff rods that can handle big fish but not smaller ones. In other words, the Ugly Stik GXand Daiwa BG SW combo is what I’d recommend if someone were to ask me, “What fishing pole should I get if I don’t know what I want?”

Pull Quote

This spinning-rod-and-reel setup is approachable enough for a novice to learn on, yet it performs well enough for a seasoned veteran to depend on.

If you’re more experienced and looking for a specific rod and reel, apart from the size of the fish you’re targeting, you’ll also have to take into account what kind of fishing you’ll be doing: Will you be casting artificial lures (objects designed to look like fish or other prey with a hook attached), or using bait (smaller fish, worms, or other natural prey, either alive or dead)? Most lure fishers will want a stiffer rod composed of graphite (or mostly graphite) so that they can “work” a jig or plug to imitate the movements of prey, while bait fishers might seek out a rod that’s a little looser or more sensitive, so as to detect the slightest strike. Our rod recommendation can do both things decently, but if you know you’ll be doing only one or the other, you should look into a more specialized setup.

How we picked

First off, I had to decide what kind of rod and reel we would focus on, which was an easy choice—if you’re going to own only one fishing rod and reel, a spinning-rod-and-reel setup is the most versatile and the easiest to use.

Compared with a baitcasting or fly-fishing setup, a spinning setup is more comfortable to use and is usually easier to repair; it also requires less finesse to cast. Think of it as the “automatic transmission” version of a fishing rod and reel. If you’re starting from nothing, a spinning outfit offers the highest chance of success. If you’re a beginner, it’s much easier to pick up than either of the other options, and it’s far less likely to become tangled than a baitcasting setup.

Key features of a fishing rod

In my 20-plus years of fishing, I’ve come to learn that when you’re shopping for fishing rods—as for any tool—paying a little attention to a few key features can be telling before you even pick up one. The rod’s material, flexibility, sensitivity, and line-guide construction all make a difference in how well the rod will perform and last.

As mentioned previously, bait-hucking fishers will want something that’s more sensitive and flexible, while lure fishers will want something stiffer (known as “fast action” in fishing jargon). Most rods are made out of fiberglass, graphite, or a mixture of both. The more graphite in a rod, the lighter and stiffer it is, but such rods are also more brittle, so you wouldn’t want to hand one to a 3-year-old. Fiberglass is heavier but more flexible (“slow action”)—like a whipping stick—and nearly impossible to break. For a beginner or an all-around angler, a combination of both materials offers the most versatile package: It gives you enough stiffness to adequately manipulate a lure, while maintaining enough sensitivity for detecting small bites.

The next most important specification you’ll want to consider is the material that makes up the guides—the loops that lead, or guide, the line from the reel to the tip (the skinny end) of the fishing rod. Lower-end fishing rods (and many higher-end ones, too) usually feature guides made of either thin stainless steel or aluminum oxide (ceramic) frames holding cheap ceramic O-ring inserts (rings designed to protect the insides of the guides and prevent line wear) that chip or corrode, and eventually fail.

The rest, including the grip material and the number of pieces the rod itself breaks down into, is up to you. I will suggest that, if you can accommodate it, a one-piece rod will almost always outperform a two- or three-piece rod. A one-piece rod offers better stiffness and more control—fewer pieces make for fewer problems with durability and performance, although portability suffers.

How we tested

We got into the weeds to find the best rod-and-reel combination for most anglers.

I tested all of the rods and reels from beaches, rocks, boats, and riverbanks. I fished with lures in rivers for trout and salmon, and I set 1- to 1½-pound live baits from my skiffs, catching ocean fish up to 20 pounds with each rod and reel. I also tested the gear on smaller bottom fish, including summer flounder, sea bass, and porgies (or scup), as well as red drum and spotted seatrout in Charleston, South Carolina. While I didn’t test much in lakes or ponds, I did spend several days fishing freshwater rivers for trout and smaller salmon, and a couple of days fishing private ponds and lakes for largemouth bass. I beat up these rods and reels, from the mouth of the Hudson River in New York to the Cook Strait of New Zealand.

I used each reel with 6- to 15-pound test monofilament line (depending on the reel size), and also tried either 40- or 50-pound test braided line on each of the saltwater-oriented rods. (Braid can come in handy for lighter-weight rods and reels, but for the inexperienced angler, it can also bring on the nuisances of knots and snags.)

Initially, I washed everything down well after each use as I usually do. Then, a week in, I decided to see what leaving salt and grit on and in them would do, which was extremely telling—especially after I took the gear apart.

Testing drags with a force meter.

After logging plenty of catches (and abuse) on each reel, I took them to Henderson’s Ltd. Tackle and Repair Shop in Blenheim, New Zealand, to get them disassembled so that I could examine the insides for signs of quality construction, design, and materials (or lack thereof). The teardown test made it easy to see why some brands earn reputations for lasting longer than others, and it allowed us to discover how some seemingly similar models are actually quite different inside.

To make certain that I put each reel and respective drag through the same amount of strain, I took the top four reels I tested into a local fishing shop and attached them to scales using a 50-pound test leader. (None of the drags would stand up to 50 pounds of tension, and this way the line would break before the drag, just in case.)

Stiffer and lighter

If the Ugly Stik GXis unavailable, or if you know you want something stiffer for doing more lure fishing, the Ugly Stik Elite series is a good bet. These rods are available in the same wide range of sizes as the GX(for the most all-around versatility, we’d still recommend a medium to medium-heavy rod in the 6-foot-or 7-foot range), but they have a cork grip instead of an EVA foam grip and contain 3percent more graphite, which makes them a bit stiffer and lighter overall. The added stiffness makes the Elite ideal for manipulating lures and giving them “action” (a fishing term for making lures dance or hobble like wounded prey).

Who else likes our reel pick

Salt Water Sportsman, expert reel reviewer Alan Hawk, and Sport Fishing Magazine are all raving about Daiwa’s BG SW, and I’ve yet to find a reason to disagree with them. “To me the BG SW is the new best value spinning reel available anywhere today,” writes Alan Hawk, “and it will be a lot of fun to sit and watch how it will steer the entire industry in a new direction, to our benefit this time.”

Care and maintenance

When rinsing a reel, first tighten the drag, sealing it so that water doesn’t work into the washers. Lay the reel out horizontally so that any water that gets in has an easy path out, and don’t blast a reel with water to avoid blasting out the grease; just make sure it receives a thorough flow. If you want to be particularly diligent when cleaning your fishing gear (it will pay off in the long run), you can soak a cloth in freshwater (even with a little soap—boat soap works) and wipe everything down. Once finished, loosen the drag; if you leave reel drags tight, they tend to get stuck that way and lose their precision.

Additionally, keeping your reel packed with grease will reduce corrosion and improve longevity. You can find reel grease in almost any outdoor-sporting store, but if you’re not confident in taking your reel apart to apply grease, having it done in-store would be worthwhile.

For more tips, see expert reel reviewer Alan Hawk’s reel-care guide.

The competition

We also tested Shakespeare’s original Ugly Stik (now discontinued) alongside the GXjust to get an idea of the differences. While Ugly Stik loyalists familiar with the original series complain that the GXis not as flexible overall, I find that it is more applicable to a wider variety of fishing methods, which is good for people who want to buy one rod to do it all. Besides, the original is no longer being made.

We looked at Lew’s Mach II Speed Stick due to its popularity with bass anglers. The IMgraphite and “Carbon Nanotube Coating” make this rod ultra-stiff and, as the name states, speedy, but it’s so stiff that it would never serve as a bait-fishing rod. It’s a great rod for freshwater bass fishing and inshore saltwater fishing, though in all honesty, it’s so obscenely hideous that I would never want any of my fishing buddies to catch me with one in my hands—at least not in the light of day. The soylent-green decor on the handle and decal is a color that belongs only on a NASCAR vehicle. But if you can bear the coloring and graphics, it is a highly serviceable rod for casting lightweight artificials to spotted seatrout, redfish, and largemouth bass. Maybe I’ll sneak out with it for some low-lit night-fishing excursions.

We also tried the Penn Battalion and the Shimano Teramar, which are both great rods. I found the Battalion to be somewhat lightweight for its action and recommended line weight, which you could easily solve by ordering the next weight up (for example, if you want a “medium action” rod, order the Battalion in “medium heavy”). I’m also a fan of the Teramar, which is extremely well-balanced—both in weight and in guide placement—but Shimano rods come with only a one-year warranty, and I prefer the high-end cork on the Triumph and Battalion anyway. On the other hand, if you’re going to spend the majority of your time bait fishing, consider the Teramar, which offers a little more play and would be a delightful tool when you’re fishing cut bait for striped bass from a boat in Long Island Sound.

The Fin-Nor Lethal is another excellent reel that came highly recommended by expert spinning-reel reviewer Alan Hawk. I had never fished this reel before seeing his recommendation, and I was thoroughly impressed. With its all-metal body, it’s definitely a workhorse. The only real issues I had were that the line lay wasn’t even (line seems to bunch up in one place on the reel) and that the bail (the metal part that holds the line when the reel is engaged) was finicky. You have only one way to open it, and if you’re not careful to handle it right, it closes back over. This presents a hazard when you’re casting, as it can close midcast and stop your bait or lure short, flinging your hooks back at you or a nearby friend. One other problem was that the clicker on the drag (the noise that you hear when line is running off the spool of a reel) sometimes didn’t engage. Twice I looked over, and the line was spinning off the spool (a fish was on the other end), but I hadn’t noticed. Fish I had hoped to release had already swallowed the hook and had to be brought home. All in all, it’s a very strong reel, and I think it could live a long life, but after seeing both novice and avid fishers nearly knock me out while attempting to cast with it, I hesitate to recommend this reel for an inexperienced fisher or a child. According to Alan Hawk, Fin-Nor’s next model up is its best, but it’s much heavier and geared toward fishing larger game.





How to save up to 86%? Here is little trick.

You must visit the page of sales. Here is the link. If you don’t care about which brand is better, then you can choose the Sinking Lures by the price and buy from the one who will offer the greatest discount.



Final Word

First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.

Most important, have fun and choose your Sinking Lures wisely! Good luck!

So, TOP3 of Sinking Lures



Questions? Leave a comment below!

Chatting about Sinking Lures is my passion! Leave me a question in the comments, I answer each and every one and would love to get to know you better!

Leave a comment!

Let us know what you have to say:

Best Lure Kits of 2018
Best Jigs of 2018
Best Feathers of 2018
Best Diving Lures of 2018
Best Bait Rigs of 2018


Some posts may contain affiliate links. 3-150.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

DMCA.com Protection Status