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Best Targeting Arrows 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated February 1, 2018
Best Targeting Arrows of 2018
Here are the customer reviews of some of the best targeting arrows of 2018. I want to find something that’s designed well (both for aesthetic purposes and efficiency). So, what exactly would anyone want to know about targeting arrows? I know most of us don’t really care much about the history and the origin, all we want to know is which of them is the best. Of course, I will spare you the history and go straight on to the best targeting arrows. Here are my top picks with detailed reviews, comparison charts and buying guides to help you purchase the perfect item for your needs.
Test Results and Ratings
№1 – 32″ Adult Hunting/Targeting Practice Carbon Arrows 350 Spine With 3″ Plastic Vanes Feathers & 100 grain broadhead 12pk
Why did this targeting arrows win the first place?
I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack.
№2 – Archery sharly 31″ Fiberglass Targeting Hunting Arrows 5” Natural Feather Fletching with Changeble Tips for Recurve Bow and Long Bow
Why did this targeting arrows come in second place?
The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery.
№3 – Archery sharly 31″ Carbon Fiber Targeting Practice Arrows Turkey Feather Fletching with Replacement Arrow Tips for Bow Hunting
Why did this targeting arrows take third place?
A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
Targeting Arrows Buyer’s Guide
How to Find Your Draw Weight
Knowing how to find the correct draw weight for your recurve and arrows is a basic skill for archers. Beginners who have never shot an arrow before should always start with the lowest, then work their way up as they progress in training and practice.
Draw Weight – This is the maximum amount of weight an archer can pull while drawing the bow.
Here’s a chart of suggested draw weight based on the archer’s frame and weight. Remember, these are suggested weights, and it’s always best to start with the lowest number. Archery won’t be fun if the bow is too hard to pull. Apart from that, it’s not good for your shoulders, joints, and muscles.
If the archer has never pulled a bow before, start with the lowest draw weight, pounds. After a couple of weeks of constant practice, and once the muscles have gone used to pulling such heavy weights, you can add more weight and power.
Intermediate archers also modify their draw weight based on their target or type of archery.
Target shooting – 2lbs. Will be enough for target practice. There’s no need to exert too much power when your targets are made of foam, straw and burlap targets. Burying the arrows too deep will only just make it hard to pull out during practice.
Bowhunting for medium sized game – 40 lbs. Is the standard minimum most hunters use.
Bowhunting for large game – 5lbs. Or Make sure your best recurve bow is designed to handle this.
Determining the Shaft Size and Other Specifications
Now that you have calculated your draw length, draw weight and have an idea about arrow weight, you can now determine your arrow spine and shaft size. Let’s take a look at the Easton Arrow Length Chart for Recurves. Here’s a snapshot from their guide:
For a full copy of the 201Easton Bowhunting Arrow Selection Char
Now that you have the key size letter use this to get the Easton arrow shaft and spine specifications for the best arrow for your recurve bow. The details on this can be obtained at the second document of the Easton Arrow Selection Guide (see link mentioned above).
For example, you have 100-grain point working at 3lbs. Draw weight, and that you’ve determined that your draw length is around 29”, the corresponding key size is D. Based on Easton Arrow Shaft Selection Guide, here’s a snapshot of group D.
For lower draw weight and low poundage targets, there’s also a chart that you can follow at the first document of the Easton Arrow Selection Guide.
A. Wood Arrows
Old school wooden arrows have long been favored by traditional archers who use low-weight recurve bows. It’s cheap and highly recommended for beginners; however, expect low consistency on arrow spine performance due to inconsistent characteristics of wood.
B. Aluminum Arrows
Aluminum arrows are the most popular types of arrows used by modern archers. Because of this material’s lightweight property, many tournament archers prefer this for practice and during target shooting. These can be reused several times, and standard types are often compatible with different type of arrow points.
For aluminium tubes, the smaller the diameter and lighter the built, the weaker the arrow becomes
My Choice: Feather Fletched Easton XX7Jazz Aluminum Arrows 6-pack
D. Fiberglass Arrows
Fiberglass was once the buzzword for the material of choice when it comes to durability. It’s a good material of choice for target archery and bow fishing. Regarding weight, these can be the heaviest among all the types of arrows, so don’t expect these to break any speed records on the field.
E. Composite Arrows
If you’re into competitive archery, this is the type to invest in. In simple terms, these are aluminium arrows wrapped with carbon fiber. Considering how ultrafast aluminium arrows can be, and how durable carbon sheets are, it’s two great things fused into one.
Factors You’ll Need to Consider When Selecting Arrows
So now you know the parts of an arrow. Now we’ll talk about the different features of an arrow, and why they’re important.
These concepts take a while to explain and they may be a little difficult to pick up, but don’t worry—by the end of the post, you’ll have a clear understanding of how it all plays together.
You wouldn’t believe it, but your arrow wiggles like a snake when it is shot. Check this out—it’s only seven seconds long, and it shows exactly what’s happening:
That wiggle is actually normal, and it’s related to something called “The Archer’s Paradox,” which, in a nutshell, is about how an arrow bends around the bow, yet still flies straight and hits your target.
In fact, not only is that wiggle normal, it’s an important aspect of buying an arrow, and it’s called “spine.” Different arrows are manufactured to have varying amounts of spine, and you want to find an arrow that has just the right amount of spine—not too little, so that it collapses on itself when it’s shot and wiggles all the way to the target, and not too much, because arrows that are too stiff aren’t accurate, and can actually fly sideways before straightening out.
Just to recap, before we go on: the bendability of an arrow is called “spine.” An arrow that bends a lot is referred to as “weak,” and an arrow that doesn’t bend a lot is referred to as “stiff.”
So what affects spine? What makes some arrows bend more than others? Here are a few of the main factors:
The Weight of the Bow. If you’re using a bow with a very high draw weight, you’re generally going to want to use a stiffer arrow, and if you’re using a bow with a low draw weight, you can use a weaker arrow. Try to close your eyes and imagine it—if you were to use a high-poundage bow and shoot a very weak arrow, the arrow would wiggle like crazy and shoot inaccurately. If you were to use a low-poundage bow and shoot a very stiff arrow, the arrow wouldn’t bend very much, and it wouldn’t go very far.
The Length of the Arrow. The longer an arrow gets, the stiffer it’s going to need to be. Imagine you have a wooden pointer—the kind that teachers used to use when they pointed at a chalk board. If that wooden point was three feet long, it probably wouldn’t bend if you held it up. Now imagine that it’s 100 feet long—it’s much easier to imagine it bending if you held it. Length of the arrow has a strong correlation to how bendable it is.
The Weight of the Point on the End of the Arrow. This is kind of fascinating. The weight of the tip of your arrow has a lot to do with how much your arrow bends. Imagine it like this: you’re holding one of those styrofoam pool noodles, and you use it to push over a paper cup that’s half-full of water. The cup would fall over, right? Now imagine you’re using that same pool noodle, but this time you’re trying to push a bowling ball. That bowling ball isn’t going anywhere, and your pool noodle is going to bend. The same concept goes for the point on your arrow. This is actually a really important part of an arrow purchase—especially if you’re a hunter and you’ve put a heavy broadhead on the end of your arrow—and we discuss it further in one of the sections below.
The Material and Size of the Arrow. We talk about this more in the “Materials” section, so we won’t get into it here, but the material that the arrow is made of—wood, aluminum, or carbon—affects the spine of the arrow.
The Cam, If You’re Using a Compound Bow. Stiffer arrows are needed for more aggressive cams, because aggressive cams put a lot of force on an arrow.
So that’s it! That’s spine. It’s a complicated idea, but hopefully that presents it in a very simple way. In one of the following sections, we’ll go over how you actually measure spine, but first, there are some other aspects about spine you should learn:
This is one of the first things you need to think about when selecting an arrow: length. You need to find your draw length, and the arrow that you buy needs to be longer than that. For beginners, it’s advised that you select arrows that are about 3.7inches (or about 9.cm) longer than your draw length; once you get a little experience under your belt and consider yourself an “intermediate,” you can begin to use arrows that are about inch (2.cm) longer than your personal draw length.
To find out your exact draw length, you can use a tool called a draw length indicator, and most pro shops have a draw length indicator you can use. The tool is basically an arrow with measurements on it, and you put the bow length indicator into the bow, draw the bow to your anchor point, and take note of the measurement at the end of the indicator. Then, when selecting arrows, you add 3.7inches to the measurement.
If you don’t have a draw length indicator, here’s a rough estimate on how to determine your draw length:
Put your arms out, side to side, and have someone measure your wingspan (if you’re alone, you can stand up next to a wall, put one hand out and mark a small pencil mark on the wall, then reach all the way out with your other hand, and make a small mark on the outside of your other hand). Whatever your wingspan is, take that number and divide it by 2.If your personal wingspan is 70 inches, your draw length will be 2inches (70 / 2.= 28).
The length of your arrows, mainly, is a safety issue. An arrow that’s too short is very, very dangerous—as you draw the arrow back, it’ll pull past the handle of your bow, and fall off the shelf or rest, all while you have the bow at full draw. Bad, bad, bad. You want to be certain that you’re using arrows that are the correct length. Arrows that are a little long may fly awkwardly, but when you’re a beginner, that’s a fair trade-off for safety.
There are two notes to keep in mind in regard to arrow length:
The diameter of an arrow is an important part of purchasing an arrow, and arrows are sold in a wide array of diameters. Here’s how it plays out:
Diameter is another important measurement, and in the sections below, we’ll go over the various ways that arrow manufacturers measure diameter.
The straighter the arrow, the better, and most manufacturers usually give a “straightness tolerance” in “+/-” terms—so, an arrow with a straightness tolerance of +/-.00of an inch is going to be straighter than an arrow with a straightness tolerance of +/-.00of an inch. As a general rule of thumb, the straighter the arrow, the more expensive it’s going to be.
Straightness is widely considered to be a little less important than spine; in other words, most archers are more concerned about getting an arrow with the proper spine than they are concerned about the straightness of an arrow.
Most carbon arrows are advertised as having a straightness between.00inches and.00inches, and in the grand schemes of things, that’s a very, very small difference. Straightness is a very important measurement, but most arrows these days are pretty straight.
The weight of an arrow is another important measurement. Weight is often measured in “grains,” or “grains per inch” (GPI). The grains per inch of an arrow are determined by a number of different factors, including:
The weight of the arrow you choose will be directly related to the poundage of your bow. In general, lighter bows use lighter arrows, and heavier bows require heavier arrows.
Hunters usually prefer heavier arrows, because a heavier arrow is going to retain more of its kinetic energy—that is, the energy it has when it is in motion—and the more kinetic energy it has, the more likely it will be to penetrate a target. Like much about archery, though, there is a trade-off—while heavier arrows keep more of their kinetic energy, they travel at lower speeds. Hunters spend a lot of time trying to find the right balance of factors, and a lot of their decisions come down to testing.
If you’re a beginner, all of the arrows you use should be the same weight. Shoot for a while with arrows the same weight, and then when you switch to a heavier or lower weight, you’ll be able to see the difference in results.
Last but not least, the weight of the tip. Archers can buy tips of varying weights depending on how they want the arrow to behave, and arrow companies usually recommend tips of various weights for specific arrows. In general, lighter poundage bows will work best with a lighter tip weight, and heavier poundage bows will work best with heavier tip weights. Hunters will usually want a heavier tip, and target archers may want a lighter tip.
This is another aspect of an arrow purchase that experienced archers will experiment with—they often get a number of different tips, and see how each performs on a given arrow.
If you’re worried about selecting tips, don’t be—a lot of arrows come pre-fletched, pre-nocked, and with screw-in tips—all you need to do is order the right length and the right weight, and they’ll come with tips included. We’ll show you have to do that below.
Different Types of Arrows Are Made from Different Materials
OK! Now that you know the different characteristics of arrows, let’s talk about the materials that arrows are made from. In general, there are four materials that most arrows are made from: wood, aluminum, carbon, and an aluminum/carbon mix.
The original arrow! These are very cost-effective, which makes them great for new archers, but they don’t last too long. They break, warp, and splinter, and because they’re made from organic material, they’re not uniform—meaning, the differences from arrow to arrow are great, and you’ll find that each arrow flies differently. These are generally popular with traditional archers and people who like to shoot longbows, but they’re almost never used in competitions. They are, however, great fun to make, and if you go online, you’ll find a LOT of archers fashioning wooden arrows.
Measurements for Wood Arrows
Wooden arrows are usually sold with four-digit numbers next to them. This is actually pretty simple: these arrows are for use with bows that weigh between 4and 5pounds. The first two digits of 455(in this case, 45) and the last two digits (in this case, 55) let us know these arrows are good for bows with a bow weight between 4and 5pounds.
This is an easy measurement, but it doesn’t tell you the kind of wood the arrow is made from, and it doesn’t tell you anything about the spine of the arrow, other than that it’s spined for arrows between 4and 5pounds. That’s usually OK, though—because people don’t usually use wooden arrows for target shooting or hunting, the spine number is a little less important.
Measurements for Aluminum Arrows
This measurement is somewhat similar to the measurement for wooden arrows, but it’s a little different. The first two numbers refer to the actual diameter of the arrow, and they’re measured in 64ths of an inch. The second two numbers refer to the thickness of the walls of the arrow, and they measure the wall thickness is thousands of an inch.
Isn’t that easy? No, no it’s not. But it’s how they do things!
Use An Arrow Chart
Arrow manufacturers usually have an arrow chart on their website. On it, you’ll choose what type of bow you’re using, your draw weight, your arrow length, and then see the recommended spine that the manufacturer thinks will work for you.
Here’s a made-up example of an arrow chart you might find:
Let’s say you’re using a recurve bow with a 42-pound draw weight, and you need 30-inch arrows. You’d look at the chart, go the column on the left-hand side that says “Recurve,” trace your finger down to the box that says “40-45″ (because your bow is between 40 and 4pounds) and then put your other finger on the top where it says “30” (because you were looking for 30-inch arrows) and then bring your fingers together, where they will meet on “500.” You then know that the proper spine for your arrows will be 500, and you can browse through the site, and any arrows that have a spine of 500 should be a good fit for your bow.
Sadly, it’s not always this easy—some arrow charts get really, really complicated, and some arrow manufacturers don’t even have them online. Some have an online tool you can use, where you enter your bow type, bow weight, draw length, and so on, and the tool returns a list of arrows you can use. Sadly, most companies don’t have this. Honestly, we don’t know why they don’t make it easier.
Go to An Online Retailer
You don’t need to buy directly from an arrow manufacturer; there are tons of big-name online stores that deliver straight to your home, and very often, it’s a lot easier to buy from these online stores than it is to buy from the archery company. You can read reviews from people who’ve already purchased the arrows, and you can ask questions, as well, and find out if an arrow is the right size and type for you.
Go to a Pro Shop
You can always go to a pro shop or archery store and ask specific questions to a trained professional. There are a lot of pro shop workers who don’t know their head from a hole in the ground, but there are also a lot of pro shop workers who are highly trained and really know what they’re talking about. Can’t hurt to go and ask questions!
While bag targets are great for repetitive practice shots, you only want to use field points with them. Broadhead tips often become stuck, and can rip the outer material ruining the target. The porous material is also not designed for extended use outdoors, and its heavy weight makes it awkward to carry which is why most experts recommend using bag targets indoors. You do have the advantage of being able to use almost any type of bow setup, as long as the bolts have field points.
Foam Block Targets
Most experts recommend placing the block so the foam layers are lying vertically which will help guide your arrow between, instead of across the layers. Foam target blocks are also ideal for use outdoors due to its lightweight and portable design. You can set up foam block targets in seconds outdoors or inside, though it is important to always consider draw weight and any potential issues that might cause difficulties when you are trying to remove the arrows.
You will appreciate its lightweight 2pound construction that makes it easy to carry to and from the practice field. The foam can withstand outdoor conditions and it is also designed to keep its strength and shape so you can work on making accurate shots. The top located rope makes it easy to hang the target from a tree limb and there are also strategically placed holes for convenient mounting at different heights.
The sided foam block can be used to improve your skill in three ways. There are two 3D sides which clearly shown the internal organs on a deer, so you can work on improving your killing shot for next season. The larger markings on the block will help you improve your aim, and there are also small targets that are ideal for working on arrow placement. With a total of 40 targets clearly marked, this foam block will help you improve your skills with a compound bow.
Field Logic Block Black B 20
Measuring 20 x 20 x 1inches, this foam block target is perfect for beginners and experienced archers who just want to practice and improve their aim. The block presents four sides with clearly marked targets that will help you improve aim and accuracy, and the white on black design ensures that it can be clearly seen from a distance.
Since the field tips easily slide out of the target there is less of a chance for you to develop arm fatigue, which often results in longer practice sessions. Its large size makes it a perfect target for backyard shooting with friends and family, and its lightweight construction makes this block target extremely easy and convenient to transport to and from the practice field.
Field Logic Glendal Pre Rut Buck 3D
Hunters are always looking for ways to improve their skills with their bow setups before the next season, and this 3D target will help archers hone their aim and accuracy. It features a durable construction and realistic design that can be easily used by beginners as well as experienced archers.
The sturdy construction can withstand repeated hits with field tips, and it is also designed to withstand most weather conditions. The lifelike buck measures 3inches at the shoulders so you can also use this 3D target to practice the accuracy of your stance and aim. Styled after a 250 pound buck, you can easily get a sense of where you should be aiming your shoots.
ARROW STRAIGHTNESS SELLS
DOWN TO THE THOUSANDTHS` advertised straightness, where the difference between the penthouse and the trailer park is just five thousandths of an inch. An arrow that’s advertised to have a +/-.001″ straightness is automatically an elite pro-grade arrow worth big bucks. An arrow with a lowly +/-.006″ straightness is the entry-level hunter grade arrow which is sold as a basic commodity. Make sense? Most carbon arrows are advertised to have a specific straightness tolerance between.001″ and.006″. You won’t find many arrows with straightness tolerances outside that range. This is what the customer base expects and accepts. So that’s what we get, and the pricing is fairly linear and predictable from +/-.006″ to +/-.001″. The straighter the arrow, the more expensive it typically will be. Does that make sense mathematically? Probably not. The entire spectrum spans a few widths of human hair. Nevertheless, that’s the carbon arrow market – where straightness is king.
Good Choices for Beginners
Easton makes arrows for folks in all stages of their development, and they have some fantastic options for novices. Here are a few.
Scouts. The Easton Scout Arrows are excellent for new archers and/or archers who are shooting from a low poundage bow. It’s actually kind of difficult to find arrows that can be shot from a bow that weighs 1to 30 pounds, because most arrow manufacturers want to sell arrows to hunters (there’s a LOT of money to be made in the hunting industry, because it’s so popular)—and to go hunting, you need at least a 40-pound bow. So, it can be tough to find arrows for lower-pound bows, and that’s why these are a great catch.
As for the arrows themselves, they’re fiberglass, and that’s another thing that makes them unique. At some point, arrow manufacturers decided to stop making fiberglass arrows, and instead focus on carbon, aluminum, and aluminum/carbon hybrids (usually referred to as A/C arrows). I’m not sure why that happened; all I know is that it’s a shame, because fiberglass arrows last FOREVER. Seriously—that’s the best thing about these things, is that you can really put them through the ringer, and they’ll be fine. They have plastic vanes instead of feather vanes, and that adds to their longevity, as well.
If you’re a new archer, or if you run a camp or an archery range, or if you’re buying for a younger archer, these are an EXCELLENT choice. (One quick warning: if you have a bow with a draw weight of more than 30 pounds, DO NOT use these arrows—your bow is way too powerful for them. You’ll bend these arrows like a wet twig, and you’ll have no idea where they’ll end up).
Genesis II. The Easton Genesis II Arrows are another great choice if you run an after-school program, teach archery, or operate a range or league.
These are actually approved by the National Archery in the Schools Program (NASP) as a great option for kids, and there are kids all over the country using them. They’re great for actually teaching archery, because they’re sturdy, and you can use them over and over again without worrying that they’ll get too dinged up. They’re aluminum, which is not as durable as fiberglass, but is still pretty tough (and certainly a lot tougher than carbon).
Most of the time, these are reasonably priced. Arrows can get really, really expensive, and these won’t break the bank. Another great feature if you’re buying in bulk or buying for a range or for an activities program.
These are also for low-poundage bows (anywhere from 1pounds to 30 pounds), and they’re roughly 30 inches long. They’re for target practice—not to be used for hunting—and they have bullet tips and rubber/plastic fletching.
These are probably the most popular arrows that Easton sells, and you’ll probably see them if you belong to an archery club or go to a range.
Here’s why we like them:
They ship ready to shoot. Many archers choose to fashion their own arrows—they glue on the fletchings, they position the nock, and they choose their tip. Not these. These are shipped ready to shoot, which makes them great for beginners.
They’re usable for bows with a wide range of poundages. These arrows are meant for bows with a draw weight of 1pounds to 50 pounds, and most beginners are going to start on bows that are right about in that range.
They’re available in a number of different lengths (usually 28, 29, and 30 inches). Very often—as with the Scouts, above—arrows are sold at a particular length, and if that particular length doesn’t work for you, you’re out of luck. The choice of three lengths is a nice little feature of these.
They’re aluminum. That means they’re pretty light, and they can take a lickin’ and keep their shape. They’re durable, in other words, and that’s a good thing when you’re learning.
They have helical feathers (sometimes called parabolic feathers), and that provides extra flight stability. Here’s what that means: the feathers on the arrow, instead of being glued on the arrow straight up and down, are glued on the arrow at a sliiiiiiiiiiiiiiight angle, so that when they fly through the air, the wind hits the feather and causes the arrow to spin. Most target archers will fashion their arrows with helical offset feathers to increase their accuracy.
I won’t say that these are the BEST arrows that Easton offers—I can hear some of the guys at the range yelling at me and listing a half-dozen other arrows that are better—but they’re a good solid option, and they may be the best “bang for your buck” option.
If you’re a new archer and you’re getting a Samick Sage recurve, these are a great first arrow.
Here are some of the features:
These are 3inches long, and you’ll need to cut them down if you need a shorter arrow. You can do that yourself, or take them to a pro shop if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Bloodline. The Easton Bloodline Arrows, with a 330 spine, are nice and stiff, and they’re good for bows of up to 70 pounds draw weight. They ship at 3inches, so just like the XX75s above, you may need to pare them down to the correct length for you.
These, too, are an excellent option for 3D archery. There’s a lot of overlap in those two activities—most hunters go to the range and practice on 3D targets in the off-season—and these are a great option if you want to do both. They’re sturdy enough for 3D targets, and they should hopefully last you until you’re able to head outdoors again.
Perhaps the best thing about this arrow is the name—”Bloodline.” That is so incredibly clever. Most of us learn hunting from our parents, and when you talk about family, you’re talking about your blood line. And, when you hunt, and successful pierce an animal with your arrow, you need to track it… and what do you use to track the animal? The blood line from the penetration wound. That’s some pretty insightful marketing right there.
Full Metal Jackets. Last but not least: Easton Full Metal Jackets. These are a fantastic hybrid arrow, with a carbon center and an aluminum allow exterior. That is a fantastic setup—the carbon gives it heft, and the aluminum protects the arrow from shatter, which is a huge problem with arrows solely made from carbon.
These have a 340 spine, so they’re pretty stiff, and for use on bows with a draw weight up to 70 pounds. They ship at 3inches, just like the other options, so you may have to alter the length, but they do come pre-fletched with medium-sized vanes, HIT inserts, and nocks.
These puppies pack a punch, and create a LOT of kinetic energy when shot from a properly-tuned bow, and the slimness of the diameter allows for through-shots, which makes it much easier to track an animal after you’ve hit it. Easton offers a lot of hunting arrows, and this is one of their top offerings.
A Word on Draw Weight
Shopping for arrows requires you know your draw weight. A comfortable draw weight will determine what, and how much you can shoot with an accurate shot. At a comfortable draw weight you should be able to fire 2arrows, one after another. If after eight or nine shots you are starting to feel fatigued, reduce your draw weight to something more comfortable. Keep in mind that draw weight is not determined by your experience as an archer, rather by what you can comfortably handle at a given time.
To Determine a Comfortable Draw: Using a bow release that is locked so it cannot fire, attach the release to the bowstring to the nocking loop. Only hold the release and allow the bow to hang as you imagine you are in a tree stand looking down on your prey. Behaving as if you will make a shot straight toward the ground, bend at the waist, grab the bow grip, and pull back the string. Remember to bring your elbow all the way back past your ear so your hand aligns with your ear and lower jaw. Gain your anchor point and then release slowly by letting it down as you guide the string back into position.
The 18-is a uniquely shaped archery target, named for its 1shootable faces. It is a highly rated bow hunting target that has become well known for its durable, self-healing foam. At 15” long on all sides, it is not a large target, but the faceted body makes it portable, and provides a variety of looks in your target practice. There is an integral rope handle that allows you to toss the target down field, leaving you with varying size and angle shots.
The main complaint with this target is the amount of force it can take to remove arrows, especially in colder weather. This is understandable seeing how it is made of high density foam. If you buy this target and have some difficulty, you can always get an arrow puller to aid in removal. On the bright side, users have reported getting over years of heavy use out of each target.
Block Vault Foam Target
The Vault is good for shooting a compound at close range, such as in a garage or basement for practice and tuning. Even though only of the sides can be shot at, it is durable enough to withstand thousands of arrows. More than a few reviewers reported getting multiple years of use out of one target.
There are sizes of Vault targets, ranging from 16”x16”x12” up to 22”x22”x16”. Crossbow shooters would be well served using one of the bigger XL or XXL targets to make sure it’s big enough to stop high powered bolts. Compound bows can be used with any of the sizes.
Morrell Outdoor Range Bag Target
Morrell is the most popular bag target brand, and they have a variety of commercial and consumer grade bag targets. The Outdoor Range target is marketed as a commercial model, but is still available for anyone to buy. That’s a good thing, because this is a really great bag target!
The stuffing is a finely shredded material that is packed together to form a dense core. It is heavy enough (50 lbs), and large enough (29”x31”14”) to handle any compound bow, as well as most crossbows.
This is a field point target only, and can withstand thousands of shots before needing a new cover. If you like to hang the bag from a frame, like at a range, you’ll have to either build one, or buy one separately.
Morrell MLT Super Duper Target
The MLT Super Duper Target is a lower cost alternative to the Outdoor Range target, even though it’s built from with the same multi-layered density design. I like the bright green visibility on the Super Duper targets. It makes it easy to see in all light conditions, and from distance.
The target uses the Morrell internal frame system, which is a fancy way of saying you can shoot nearly anywhere on the bag without issue.
I like the designs on the bag. One side has target circle, while the other has deer vital organs drawn inside a large target ring. Those are really useful layouts for deer hunters.
Rinehart Woodland Buck
The Woodland Buck is a scaled down whitetail deer 3D target that is approximately the size of a 100 pound deer. The buck is not the largest 3D target out there, but it is big enough to provide a realistic shooting experience, and gets high marks for quality.
You can shoot the Woodland Buck from either side, and features a really nice sized vital area core. The core is made from the famous Rinehart self-healing foam found on their block targets. If you shoot a lot of arrows, you can always buy a replacement core (although can be hard to find sometimes).
One common complaint about the Woodland Buck is the length of rebar protruding from the feet. They leave you about 2” of rod to spike into the ground, which doesn’t provide the greatest holding strength for taking arrows and bolts from powerful compounds or crossbows.
Rinehart Woodland Turkey
The Tom Turkey is the best 3D turkey target I have seen, and a must have for bow hunters looking for realistic target practice prior to your turkey hunts. The Tom Turkey measures a full 30 inches from tip to tail, making it a full size replica of a wild turkey.
The features on this turkey target look great, and the base is wide enough to create a stable shooting platform. There are no highlighted “kill shot” zones, but it does have a replaceable vital organ insert. One trick you can use to add highlights is to take a bright yellow marker and outline the vital zone insert.
GlenDel 3D Buck Targets
GlenDel Targets offers a very popular series of 3D whitetail deer targets. They range from 200-300lb scale replicas, and standing over feet tall. The Rinehart Woodland Buck in comparison is just too small for some bow hunters, and the best place to turn is the GlenDel series. I really like how these targets assemble together and are positionable to create realistic shooting scenarios.
What Arrow Tips Do You Need
Lucky you, there are only a few options to choose from. I would say there are only two main categories: Target practice and bowhunting.
For target practice you can get field tips for field practice, tips for Olympic shooting and tips for target practice etc. All those tips were designed to penetrate foam targets.
If you ask yourself what tip weight you should get I would answer that this depends on the weight of the other parts (shaft, insert, nock, fletchings etc.) of the chosen model as its whole weight (including the tip) must match the draw weight of your compound (I will explain that in the next paragraph).
How To Choose An Arrow That Fits You
First of all, you have to determine your draw length (not the one of the bow!). You can use a special arrow for measuring it (available in bow shops). So all you have to do is draw your bow with that arrow (full draw), then have someone look at its scale and note down the point that is right where the handle / riser ends.
How To Determine Your Draw Length
If you have no idea about how to measure your draw length I would recommend you go to a professional shop. They will measure it for you and will choose the best arrows for you and your bow because to be able to measure in a correct way you need to know what a full draw looks / feels like. If you are off on that one the numbers will be off as well.
Why are bow and arrows important, you might ask yourself? I would go a step further and claim that the right ones are more important than the bow. If they are chosen badly your results while shooting will be bad as well.
This document has been written to explain the different types of bow commonly available, to explain the basic components of different types of bows and to give some guidance intended to help make the choice for your first bow. The advice here is aimed at beginners and it should be noted that the cost of bows with the required accessories can range from low hundreds of pounds through to thousands of pounds for pro level equipment.
When selecting your initial bow and accessories some professional advice and support is essential. It is absolutely not advised to buy your first bow online as opposed to visiting a shop, trying various options and having your complete package set up for you. Buying a bow at a shop should take a long time, with over two hours to try multiple options, select your bow, have it set up, arrows made and test firing. It is not uncommon for there to be long waits at popular times in shops and so it is advised to turn up early.
Talk to people in the club
As well as the advice given by shops there are a lot of regular archers in the club that have varying levels of experience and have tried out a lot of equipment. Most people are happy to show you their bows and to talk about equipment they like and equipment that did not work out for them. Ask nicely and people may well be willing to let you try some of the different equipment available.
A Cautionary Note
There are a wide range of possibilities buying your first bow from very cheap to very expensive and second hand equipment does not fetch good prices. If you buy a very cheap training bow and regularly attend to shoot you should expect to reach the limits of the bow very quickly and then need to spend more money buying a better bow. If you buy an expensive bow there are still some parts that you will probably end up replacing such as arrows and limbs as you improve and naturally move up to higher poundage limbs. The balance between equipment that you will quickly outgrow and managing your budget is down to the individual but the advice offered within this document is intended to provide a balance that gives a good starting point at a reasonable outlay.
There are main categories of shooting
Barebow – As implied by the name, the bow is shot without any accessories such as sights or stabilisers and in some cases without arrow rests. Traditional bows are typically shot barebow but sometimes recurve bows are also shot his way.
Typical Recurve – Under competition rules recurve bows can be fitted with an arrow rest a sight (unmagnified), clicker, stabilisers and weights / vibration dampers. As an initial starting point it is common to use a cheap sight, good arrow rest and sometimes a long rod with other accessories upgraded or added later. This is the most common style of shooting in the club.
Typical Compound – Compound bows are subject to different rules to recurve bows and are normally easier to shoot with greater accuracy. Compound bows will commonly be fitted with arrow rests, front sights which can be magnified, a peep sign (a small sight inserted into the bow string) and stabilisers.
The Complete Package
The remainder of this document is mostly concerned with the bow and arrows, but it should be highlighted that there will be a number of other items required to properly shoot and maintain your bow. Some typical prices are indicated in the bow sections that include an allowance for the following accessories:
Arm Guard £– from time to time (well quite frequently when you start out) the bow string will make contact with your arm. An arm guard deflects the string and prevents most of the pain and bruising. Arm guards are relatively cheap and available in a range of sizes. If choosing a compound bow choose an arm guard that errs on the side of big and well built!
Finger Tab – if shooting off the fingers (i.e. not a compound bow shot with a release aid) then a finger tab or shooting glove is required. The tabs are there for two main purposes, firstly to protect the fingers from the forces exerted by the bow string and secondly to help the bow string pass smoothly off the fingers with minimal friction. If possible, try out a few different styles to see what feels best.
Arrow Rest £1– some recurve risers come with a free arrow rest, and it is worth every penny that you paid for it! Most archers in the club are guided along the route of fitting a good quality magnetic arrow rest specifically the Spigarelli Magnetic Arrow Rest. A good recurve arrow rest is not particularly expensive at under £20. Compound bow shooters on the other hand are faced with a wide variety of different arrow rests with differing complexities and wildly ranging prices from £20 to £100
Pressure Button – these devices are needed to counteract some of the forces and movement generated as an arrow is shot and deflects with recurve bows. Some recurve risers come supplied with a free pressure button that is suitable for use and does not need replacing until your archery skills are more developed (by which time it is often worn out anyway). – there is a vast range of quality and pricing for sights ranging from a few pounds to several hundred. Top end sights have great stability and very fine adjustments but are only required when shooting long distances. It is recommended that a relatively low budget sight is used initially to minimise outlay whilst allowing the archer to progress to reasonable distances before further investment is required.
Stabilisers £1– these can be added to bow to aid the archer in holding the bow steady as well as reducing the level of vibration, it is common to start shooting a recurve bow without any and then add them later as required. Stabilisers vary greatly in price from £1for a basic long rod to hundreds of pounds for a complete set up. With an initial recurve bow purchase it is not necessary to buy any stabilisers but at most a low cost long rod can be added to the kit. If shooting compound, depending upon the bow configuration it can be a necessity to purchase a long rod in order to be able to use a clip on bow stand.
Bow String – (not compound) there are many different materials and visual options for bow strings but to begin with for a modern recurve a ‘Fast Flight’ type string (Such as Fast Flight Plus, 8190, 8125G etc) should be purchased (and not a Dacaron based string). For traditional bows a Dacaron (aka B50 or B55) string should be purchased.
Arrow Puller – not quite accurately named, they are lumps of silicone to aid the gripping of arrows to make removal from the target boss easier. They are commonly supplied in forms, a small square that wraps around the arrow or a larger cylindrical body with a slot cut in to fit the arrow. At an introductory level it is a matter of preference which is selected.
Bow Stringer – in order to string and de-string recurve and traditional bows it is a requirement to have a bow stringer which fits over the ends of the limbs and allows the archer to deflect the bow sufficiently to install or remove the string. There are other methods of achieving this but the use of a bow stringer is strongly recommended
Stand £– these will hold the bow safely and off the ground when not in use. For recurve and traditional bows there are different designs available but all essentially have a U shaped holder to sit the bow grip into and a small strip that the bow string slots into to keep the bow from moving. Whilst there are some complex stands available the best are generally some of the cheaper ones such as SF Chrome (YAM) stand. For compound bows it is common to use a clip on stand that grips the limbs to provide legs and depending upon the design, the bow either sits on the stand and bottom cam or the stand and long rod stabiliser
Bag / Case £3– to keep the bow and all accessories together and protected, a bow case provides storage for the bow, arrows and ever increasing amount of accessories that archers end up with. Recurve bows are typically carried around in backpacks which include an arrow storage tube and compound bows in hand carried bags. Long sleeves are available for the storage of traditional bows.
Quiver £1– with either its own belt or a clip to attach onto the archers’ belt, the Quiver is used to store arrows and other accessories whist shooting. Available with a wide range of pockets and extra pouches through to a simple arrow holder.
Clickers £– these are either spring strips or magnetic devices that have the arrow inserted under them until it is drawn back and the clicker is then free to swing back and hit the riser making a clicking noise. Opinion is divided if they should be used during the early stages or archery or not. Clickers help to ensure that arrows are drawn back a consistent distance each time but can lead to problems with archers anticipating the clicker and failing to develop correct and consistent technique.
Release Aid £100 – for use with compound bows, the release aid is used to hold the bow string, or a small loop added to the string with the release aid being held and pulled back to bring the bow to the shooting position. The release aid includes a trigger mechanism that releases the bow to shoot the arrow. Beware of cheap release aids as they can have a tendency to misfire, generally the club takes a dim view of people shooting their fellow members, even by accident. – there are some other small items that can be purchased including string wax (to be applied every few weeks to keep the string in good condition), spare nocks, fletching’s, points for arrows (minor costs but allow for repairs to be made when the inevitable happens)
Traditional bows are normally shot barebow i.e. they have no sights fitted or other modern aids. There are a selection of traditional bows available and Merlin Archery typically have a range available to try. Long Bows and Flat bows are made from staves of single wood or laminated wood strips and then machined to shape. Whilst they have nostalgia, in reality it is possible to shoot a modern recurve barebow with higher reliability and lower cost. If you are so inclined, it is possible to obtain plans for longbows and flatbows and then make your own bow.
Whilst there are a few traditional bows in the club, these are all used as an occasional bow to make a change from shooting a modern bow as opposed to peoples’ main activity. It should also be noted that traditional bows break, hopefully not until they have shot many thousands of arrows.
Typical cost of an entry level Traditional Bow £350 (Bow £250, Wooden Arrows £60, Misc £40)
Calculate Your Draw Length
The first thing you need to know to pick out your arrows is your draw length. “But wait a minute, Jeff, don’t I need to have my bow first?” you might be asking. The short answer is no. The long answer is that there are two methods you can use to figure out your draw length, even without a bow in hand.
The first method is the arm-span method. Stand straight up, and stretch your arms out to either side. Make sure both of your arms are parallel to the floor and your shoulders aren’t pulled together. Then, have a friend measure the distance between both of your middle fingertips with a measuring tape. Take that distance, divide it by 2.5, and voila! You’ve got your draw length. For example, if your arm span is 70”, then the most accurate draw length for you is 28”.
The second method is the wall measurement. To measure your draw length this way, just face a wall sideways and place the fist of your bow arm firmly against the wall while keeping your arm parallel to the floor. Then, turn your head so you’re facing the wall. Imagine you’re holding a bow, because this position should look as if you were holding an imaginary bow and aiming at the wall. Once you’re in position, have a friend measure the distance between the wall and the corner of your mouth. This will be your draw length.
To get the most accurate measurement, use both of these methods. In the unlikely event that the numbers don’t match, add the two together and then divide the result by to get your draw length.
Some specific recommendations
Okay, with that information out of the way, what type of arrows should you buy if you want to do both target and hunting shooting? Since you’re a beginner, this is easy. Your accuracy isn’t going to be all that hot past 25-3yards, so any target arrow you shoot should still have enough killing force to take down a deer from that distance. Go ahead and buy a set of good carbon target arrows to start with, and build your way up to the more weighty arrows as your skill level increases.
Easton and Carbon Express both make excellent arrows for target shooting. I’m particularly fond of the Easton Carbon Raider, which is available in both 340 and 400 weights; stick with the lower weight at first, then move up to 400 weight for hunting purposes when your accurate range increases. As you become even more skilled, consider moving up to the Easton Carbon ION arrows for even more stopping power.
These are the bows you see in the Olympics. Top competition bows are complicated machines but every complication makes it easier to send that arrow where it is supposed to go.
Beginner bows usually have a sight but no balance arms. Balance arms are great for serious competition but are hard to set up and very inconvenient in smaller places.
Draw Weights for Beginners
Draw weight is the amount of force it takes to draw the bowstring back.
Bows for beginners should have a draw weight between 15-20 lbs. for children and between 20-2lbs. for the adults. Draw weights are usually written on the lower limb of a bow.
The nock is made from either plastic or aluminum in most cases, and it is attached to the back of the shaft. The purpose of a nock is to keep the bolt in place as you line up for the shot.
There are two primary types of nocks to be found on crossbow bolts: the half-moon (top image on the left), and the flat nock (bottom image). The half-moon nock has a groove that you will need to align with your string before you can fire the bolt.
Local Pro Shop
Archery shops, like fishing shops, are a great place to learn, hang out, and purchase equipment at. Yes, you can probably find it cheaper online. But if the shop owner, staff, and patrons are knowledgeable, helpful, and friendly, consider spending a few more bucks on an accessory item to keep them in business. Most pro shop staff members worth their salt will be able to fit you to a bow that will be both comfortable, ergonomic, and optimal for your body size and strength. Many shops also sell used bows or consign them for their customers. You can find a great deal this way, as most shops will throw in a free -, strings, arrows, etc with a deal. See what you find.
All that power but no way to aim sounds like a big waste to me. Accuracy is achieved through proper form, good sights, quality arrow rest, and a properly set up bow. The last are things you can pay for up front, but proper form must be learned over time. Invest in a good quality 3-pin sight (Apex, Cobra, Tru-Glo, Sword) a good quality on market arrow rest (WhiskerBiscuit, Trophy Ridge), and proper setup done by your pro shop.
QUALITY ARCHERY DESIGNED PRODUCTS HDX ARROW REST-RIGHT HAND
Besides, it comes with moleskin hence reducing the level of noise that is caused when the arrow gets bumped. It is important to note that you have to put a nock point at a higher position than usual when setting this rest.
This is because it comes in 7/1inch which is quite higher than the standard rest that comes with about to 3/inch.
Arrow Powder Testing
It is vital to powder test your arrow regardless of the rest that you are using. You can opt to use some foot spray white powder at the end of each arrow. Try shooting it into a short target and see if you can identify the shaft and fletching for visual marks. If you see any contact marks, adjust and retest the arrow until the marks are no longer seen in the fletching. Of course, you should learn to do this as you plan to purchase your best arrow rest.
Trust your shot & be aggressive
My No. tip for shooting in the wind is to be confident. When it gets windy, don’t panic and question everything. Remember the fundamentals of your shot – the process you use for shooting. Pick a spot to aim, and then trust it. This advice is as valid for beginners as it is for expert archers. Archers shooting in the wind must trust their judgment about wind strength.
Trust lets you shoot a strong shot, which benefits you in two ways. First, even if the wind pushes the arrow, it will be less affected if you release a good, strong shot vs. a weak, tentative shot. Second, you will receive accurate feedback, which lets you make adjustments. If you make a strong shot and it scores a left 9, you know you must account for the wind pushing your arrow left. If, however, you make a weak shot, you’ll question whether your arrow hit left because of you or the wind. You won’t know where to aim your next arrow.
You can tune or adjust your bow release the way you want it. It’s critical to get an easy-to-adjust release to adhere to your posture and shooting. The bow release should be smooth and won’t change tensions once you let go of the string.
To begin, you must first have a clear understanding as to where you will like to utilize the arrow rest. Can it be for target or hunting shooting? Therefore, it is necessary to know and understand this so as to enhance your movements. Many would rather choose a containment kind of arrow rest because of its extreme tight hang on the arrow, however, there are also individuals who make use of arrow rest because of fast speed arrows.
Regarding target shooting, few people prefer lightweight arrow rests that will not get in contact with the prongs or some other things that may in any way block its flight upon discharge.
You can acquire a lot of experience from setting it up since It is not difficult to integrate the arrow rest. Some kind of arrow rest models is more difficult to install than others. Therefore, it is highly advisable to have the shop attendant to handle it for you for the first time.
As time goes on and you have a clearer understanding of doing it yourself after then you can control what should be controlled to your own satisfaction to get more agreeable and more precise shooting.
Obviously, you want to purchase arrow rest to enhance your performance and accuracy in archery. Finding the best model for yourself is a necessity and mustn’t be taken with levity. Arrow rest can provide you with nice features because it doesn’t touch the arrow when it is released.
With arrow rest, you won’t have to deal with the arrow’s feather-end being destroyed because of fast speed arrows. That means your arrow won’t have to drop anymore when you are not concentrating because of its large prongs features that support the arrow shaft.
In spite of the fact that the arrow rest can possibly be as expensive as it could influence your financial plan, it doesn’t frustrate you in any way. It all depends on you whether you purchase an arrow rest kind that has a medium price or a top-notch quality.
Arrow Rest Selection Tip
Arrow rests are much the same as other bows and arrows parts, yet the distinction is their significant resting usefulness. It has been observed that some will have extreme performance than others. Before heading off to your next arrow rest merchant, make sure you keep the below tips in mind:
It is advisable to first set the alignment of the shot when mounting the rest on your bow. This can be accomplished by arranging your arrow focus to the left side (in case you are right-handed) of the line that is the string.
Ripcord Fall Away Arrow Rest
One of the best arrow rests you can ever come across is the Quality Archery Designs Ultra rest Pro HDX arrow rest. When they say genius, they really mean it since this rest can truly hold your arrow intelligently.
Constructed to be productive, this arrow rest is constructed with top range stainless steel and also accompanied by another genuine tree AP shading alongside the standard dark shading. Most of the time, the arrow tends to move position. But, this won’t be an issue with the Ultra rest pro. The arrow will always remain in position.
The pack likewise is accompanied by a DVD to demonstrate to you the whys and hows. The rest is even integrated with inventive technological components like propelled vibration which limits excessive vibration. Other key functionality incorporated into the rest includes velocity drop away innovation and lock down mechanism.
This equipment holds your arrow in position until you shoot the bow. Like the bow sight, this device varies from simple to complex rests. It comes in different types. The following are the most common ones.
For more arrow rest information: Best Archery Rest Guide
Drop Away Arrow Rest is a rest that drops away as the arrow is fired. The reason why it is dropped is that the arrow will fly out of the bow without the rest hindering the flight of the arrow. This type of rest is recommended for hunters as it helps to position you perfectly.This rest is distinguished from fall away rest wherein it simply falls when the arrow is shot. The drop away arrow rest is the most sophisticated rest available today.
Containment Arrow Rests eliminate the possibility of the arrow falling from the rest. Hunters prefer this rest because it is easy to install and adjust. This keeps you from worrying with arrows that fall from the rest. Rather, you will be focused on your actual shot. However, since the rest is connected to the arrow for a long time, this device is said to be less forgiving to errors in shooting techniques.
This accessory is one of the most essential one an archer needs to have. It is a container for arrows, traditionally made out of leather, wood and animal fur. There are many designs available in the market; belt, back, ground or arrow bag, which could be attached in any part of the body depending on the archer’s choice.
So here it is, a brief explanation for each must-have compound bow accessory. By now you should have some basic knowledge about each of the equipment. These accessories are designed to improve your archery performance. For example the archery sight improves your accuracy and the archery release improves your arrow relesae speed. If you are serious about archery, you should consider investing in these equipments sooner or later.
Aluminum arrows were invented in the 1940’s. They are preferred today because they are cheap and easy to craft. In addition to that, they are quite sturdy as compared to their predecessor wood. Arrows made of aluminum materials have remarkable rebounding capabilities. They are less affected by humidity or wind. Their straight shaft can easily fly through the air with minimum resistance from friction.
Carbon has also been used for quite some time in arrow making. Initially, carbon shafts were made thin thus were susceptible to breakage. However, the ones made today have addressed their predecessors’ weaknesses.
Carbon arrows are wrapped or weaved with tough material to avoid splintering. They also have great momentum and straight flight. Carbon as a material is strong and durable, and so are the arrows made from it.
Today, some arrows are made from aluminum and carbon materials. These hybrid arrows are light, fast and have a remarkable energy transference. Their shaft is made with carbon and is then coated with aluminum.
If you want pricier arrows with better performance, then the hybrids might be a good option.
When scouting for a good arrow, you must consider its draw weight. A comfortable draw weight is instrumental for a perfect shot. If you choose the right weight, you will be able to fire up to 2shots comfortably. However, if you choose the wrong weight, your hands will start straining at the 9th shot.
The Arrow Spine
The spine has a tremendous impact on your shooting accuracy. It is the static measure of the deflection of the arrow’s shaft when it is shot. The spine is calculated by measuring the number of inches the shaft bends when suspended. The figure is then multiplied by 1000.
Shafts with a more pronounced bend tend to deflect more. Therefore, they should be used with lower weight bows. On the other hand, rigid or static spines are recommended for weighty bows. Manufacturers will always indicate the various spine measurements of each arrow for easy comparison.
Fletching describes the pronounced parabolic structures on the back of the arrow. They are meant to provide stability when the arrow is in flight. Conventional fletching are made of feathers because they are light and readily available. However, they may not be a good choice since feather is not weather proof. The popular fletching used today are the vanes. They come in either 2- or 4-inch lengths.
Addressing your Shooting Needs
When looking for hunting arrows, you need to consider the penetration and the balance of the arrow. If you want the best penetration, you should use a heavier arrow. It is recommended that you choose 8-grains per pound of draw weight. For long distance targets, a thin and heavy arrow should be the go-to ammunition. It provides sufficient tolerance to wind drift as well as more momentum causing deeper penetration.
Beman ICS White Out
The Breman ICS White Out hunting arrow is designed with a high-visibility camouflage finish for better visibility. When using the White Out, you can ascertain the accuracy of your shot by looking at its white trail as it approaches the target. The high visibility makes it easy to recover especially when it falls in a place with autumn leaves or critter. In addition to that, you can determine the type of your shot by checking the blood markings on the arrows white surface.
The White Out’s shaft is made of carbon material. It is, therefore, very durable and provides the perfect balance for a steady flight. The arrow’s lightweight carbon structure delivers high velocities for a deeper penetration. Its carbon bolts provide a multi-laminate construction which is robust enough for field use. When you shoot the White Out across an open field, you can easily track its projection as it advances towards the target.
The Breman ICS White Out is also straightness-checked and weight-matched to improve its precision. The straightness factor ranges between -.00and +0.00inches. Consequently, its weight tolerance lies within +-grains. The package comes with Talon, half-moon, and flat-back nocks that guarantee better arrow departure. For easier extraction from the target, the arrows are fitted with machine-crafted aluminum inserts.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Targeting Arrows wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Targeting Arrows
- №1 — 32″ Adult Hunting/Targeting Practice Carbon Arrows 350 Spine With 3″ Plastic Vanes Feathers & 100 grain broadhead 12pk
- №2 — Archery sharly 31″ Fiberglass Targeting Hunting Arrows 5” Natural Feather Fletching with Changeble Tips for Recurve Bow and Long Bow
- №3 — Archery sharly 31″ Carbon Fiber Targeting Practice Arrows Turkey Feather Fletching with Replacement Arrow Tips for Bow Hunting